swapped PJ for PWK.... now I need some help
swapped PJ for PWK.... now I need some help
I know... the dreaded carb set up questions...lol
First let me tell you what I was chasing. I built my A/F with a PJ. 170 main, 1369 Needle in the top clip (lean) 50 pilot A/S at 1-3/4 out. Starts 1 kick and idles great. On the track it feels a little blubbery down low and then hits very hard in the mid. I have played with the A/S in and out and it does little to change this, just affects the idle. I was always told the shared idle/choke circuit on the PJ is problematic, so I bought a 39 PWK
I started off with the PWK at 170 Main, 1472 needle and 42 pilot. Bike was hard to get started and would not idle. Turned idle screw all the way in and bike will start but not idle. A/S is out 2 turns and may even want more, so Im thinking its rich still.
I am in San Antonio, its still 100F here and Im at 4-500 feet above sea level... If anyone has suggestions, please send them. I would hate to be going back to the PJ, but if it works better I will.
Zach
[img[/img]
First let me tell you what I was chasing. I built my A/F with a PJ. 170 main, 1369 Needle in the top clip (lean) 50 pilot A/S at 1-3/4 out. Starts 1 kick and idles great. On the track it feels a little blubbery down low and then hits very hard in the mid. I have played with the A/S in and out and it does little to change this, just affects the idle. I was always told the shared idle/choke circuit on the PJ is problematic, so I bought a 39 PWK
I started off with the PWK at 170 Main, 1472 needle and 42 pilot. Bike was hard to get started and would not idle. Turned idle screw all the way in and bike will start but not idle. A/S is out 2 turns and may even want more, so Im thinking its rich still.
I am in San Antonio, its still 100F here and Im at 4-500 feet above sea level... If anyone has suggestions, please send them. I would hate to be going back to the PJ, but if it works better I will.
Zach
[img[/img]
is it just me or does that pipe look like your on the lean hot side?
What slide do you have in it? I have an airstriker with a 7.0 slide and 55 idle jet and it seems lean but that's just running without load, when I wack the throttle it falls on it's face, my next move is to raise the needle, if that doesn't work then go with an even bigger jet.
I had it working pretty good with a 6.5 slide but sold the carb that it went to, I may have to locate another one before I get it all straightened out.
What slide do you have in it? I have an airstriker with a 7.0 slide and 55 idle jet and it seems lean but that's just running without load, when I wack the throttle it falls on it's face, my next move is to raise the needle, if that doesn't work then go with an even bigger jet.
I had it working pretty good with a 6.5 slide but sold the carb that it went to, I may have to locate another one before I get it all straightened out.
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
The IDLE SCREW:
This is the black plastic one that comes on most all PWk's. To make it idle on a CR500, it needs to be nearly bottomed out. I've even seen bikes where you needed to cut a little off the coil spring to relieve the coil bind condition.
This is the brass idle screw thats available. It seems a tad longer than the black plastic one.
In either case, you need to get the slide open far enough to be able to get a "high idle", so at that point you can turn it down to the proper speed.
Your pilot , needle, and main are all close enough to work.
Sounds like you might have something else going on.
This is the black plastic one that comes on most all PWk's. To make it idle on a CR500, it needs to be nearly bottomed out. I've even seen bikes where you needed to cut a little off the coil spring to relieve the coil bind condition.
This is the brass idle screw thats available. It seems a tad longer than the black plastic one.
In either case, you need to get the slide open far enough to be able to get a "high idle", so at that point you can turn it down to the proper speed.
Your pilot , needle, and main are all close enough to work.
Sounds like you might have something else going on.
[quote="TYSTYX"]By the color on that pipe you're definitely running lean.[/quote
Maybe its just the lighting in the picture. Lean it is not.. Plug is black, sputters and burbles down low. I dropped the needle and presto... bike idles, its crisp and no burble....
here is a different angle of pipe color.
[/img
Maybe its just the lighting in the picture. Lean it is not.. Plug is black, sputters and burbles down low. I dropped the needle and presto... bike idles, its crisp and no burble....
here is a different angle of pipe color.
[/img
Thanks Bob... No nothing else going on, just needed to screw around with needle and pilot. I think the 100F temp is making it a tad harder to base line. I dropped the needle and set A/S at 1.5 out. All of a sudden it idles, and runs nice...lolAlisoBob wrote:The IDLE SCREW:
This is the black plastic one that comes on most all PWk's. To make it idle on a CR500, it needs to be nearly bottomed out. I've even seen bikes where you needed to cut a little off the coil spring to relieve the coil bind condition.
This is the brass idle screw thats available. It seems a tad longer than the black plastic one.
In either case, you need to get the slide open far enough to be able to get a "high idle", so at that point you can turn it down to the proper speed.
Your pilot , needle, and main are all close enough to work.
Sounds like you might have something else going on.
I should have just played with it a little more instead of thinking I had a problem.
BTW, where do i get the longer brass screw?
http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/pro ... d=MTEwMA==AMA714 wrote:I dropped the needle and set A/S at 1.5 out. All of a sudden it idles, and runs nice...lol
This is a must have item...
Thanks for the help boys... I knew I was close with the PJ. I had Kent Howerton take it for a ride last weekend at Cycle Ranch. I figured if anyone knows how a 500 is supposed to feel it would be Kent. Anyway, he came back grinning and told me im rich down low.. Been chasing it since.
Dont get me wrong, the bike is awesome.. Im just trying to make it smooth off the bottom so it doesnt need to be clutched to get on the pipe.
Dont get me wrong, the bike is awesome.. Im just trying to make it smooth off the bottom so it doesnt need to be clutched to get on the pipe.
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
OK, so with the pilot a 38 and A/S 1-3/4 out seems to be good. Im back to 1 kick to start, and idles fine. Once i pull away its all garbley and blubbery before cleaning out . Up top its good.
So I dropped the needle (1472) top clip. Cleaned it up, but still blubbery. What is the next series of needle that will get me leaner off the bottom?
So I dropped the needle (1472) top clip. Cleaned it up, but still blubbery. What is the next series of needle that will get me leaner off the bottom?
So while I waited for needles, pilots and some main jets to get here, I decided to try the 1369 needle in top clip, 38 pilot, 6.0 slide and a 170 main.
After getting A/S set bike started a d idled good. Went out on the road and did some 3rd gear roll on's. The bottom end burble was much better, pulled ok mid and fell a touch flat up top. As you know, the 500 pulls through the mid / top range pretty quickly, so I was using 3rd to prolong the acceleration from bottom to top. I knew it could be better, but was out of tuning options.. It's been 100F here for a month, so for shits, I swap the 170 for a 165. Holy Crap.... It's alive!!!
I have been chasing the bottom end burble, so I was not really thinking main jet was in play. Guess it goes to show, everything needs to be dialed to make the carb function. 3rd gear roll on is a no burble arm stretching deal now...... Accelerates so quick, it's a little violent. My poor MX31 is toast after a couple pulls out on the street...
After getting A/S set bike started a d idled good. Went out on the road and did some 3rd gear roll on's. The bottom end burble was much better, pulled ok mid and fell a touch flat up top. As you know, the 500 pulls through the mid / top range pretty quickly, so I was using 3rd to prolong the acceleration from bottom to top. I knew it could be better, but was out of tuning options.. It's been 100F here for a month, so for shits, I swap the 170 for a 165. Holy Crap.... It's alive!!!
I have been chasing the bottom end burble, so I was not really thinking main jet was in play. Guess it goes to show, everything needs to be dialed to make the carb function. 3rd gear roll on is a no burble arm stretching deal now...... Accelerates so quick, it's a little violent. My poor MX31 is toast after a couple pulls out on the street...