"Mangler" by dubious... a 2006 CR250R conversion
"Mangler" by dubious... a 2006 CR250R conversion
Big thanks to Paul Stoffers, and Roostious Maximus for the tips,
Paul for the engine mounts, Solid bro for the coolant fittings, and Mik for the jig.
here goes nothing... this was an easy frame mod... I really like the 250 2ST chasis for the mods.
Frame was cut out at the Y, then jacked.
3" pipe was cut open, and used as fill in the crotch of the Y, and a 1/4" 6061 T6 plate cut for the front face of the Y, as it was hogged out a fair bit
My welder layed some beads far superior to the stock Honda robots.
At first I was only had sections of the front plate stitched so as not to put too much heat into the stock Y, but it looked odd and unfinnished.
I had him complete the stitching a day later. I think this worked out in my favour, so that the Y did not see as much heat at once.
I have considered temper, and the heat treating process, but I have spoken with many structural and metalurgical people, who think we are being anal in those regards.
The frame see's extension forces at the Y, not compressive, thats why the frame opened up on the ones that broke, in addition to poor penetration into billet chunks
In this pic you can see the small wings I left there for additional strength. Since they are part of a big face plate, they don't need to bee so obtrusive.
Got carried away with the abraisive wheel, took too much off a few welds that I wanted to leave exposed, but had to finnish them for conformity, and asthetics.
I'm pretty happy with the results on my first Gen3 frame.
This bike is being built for a friend and coworker.
Paul for the engine mounts, Solid bro for the coolant fittings, and Mik for the jig.
here goes nothing... this was an easy frame mod... I really like the 250 2ST chasis for the mods.
Frame was cut out at the Y, then jacked.
3" pipe was cut open, and used as fill in the crotch of the Y, and a 1/4" 6061 T6 plate cut for the front face of the Y, as it was hogged out a fair bit
My welder layed some beads far superior to the stock Honda robots.
At first I was only had sections of the front plate stitched so as not to put too much heat into the stock Y, but it looked odd and unfinnished.
I had him complete the stitching a day later. I think this worked out in my favour, so that the Y did not see as much heat at once.
I have considered temper, and the heat treating process, but I have spoken with many structural and metalurgical people, who think we are being anal in those regards.
The frame see's extension forces at the Y, not compressive, thats why the frame opened up on the ones that broke, in addition to poor penetration into billet chunks
In this pic you can see the small wings I left there for additional strength. Since they are part of a big face plate, they don't need to bee so obtrusive.
Got carried away with the abraisive wheel, took too much off a few welds that I wanted to leave exposed, but had to finnish them for conformity, and asthetics.
I'm pretty happy with the results on my first Gen3 frame.
This bike is being built for a friend and coworker.
- iggys-amsoil
- Posts: 3602
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
Re: "Mangler" by dubious... a 2006 CR250R conversi
Not to mention 500 pounds of down force casing the big step up. "Me"dubious01 wrote: The frame see's extension forces at the Y, not compressive, thats why the frame opened up on the ones that broke,
-
- Posts: 678
- Joined: February 22nd, 2008, 8:18 pm
-
- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
There was some slag, and extra material the welder didnt trim before welding, and like I said it kinda got away on me.
structurally and asthetically better looking than the MPS and Service Honda frames I have seen on bikes that have stock components, for $10,000 USD....
This bike will have a brand new mild performance engine, built by MRE, excell wheels, pro tapers, scotts damper, applied tripples, billet pieces abound, new kicker, new shifter, all new cables, new PWK 39 mm, CR250 ignition, new clutch, hinson basket, all new brakes, stainless lines, ebc pads, new linkage and swingarm bearings, wheel bearings, new SDG seat, all new plastic, etc etc...
its a brand new bike essentially, with some high end components for less money than the MPS or SH bikes.
Thats the back side, against the motor and it will look the same throwing roost at the 4 strokes at 60 mph anyway...
structurally and asthetically better looking than the MPS and Service Honda frames I have seen on bikes that have stock components, for $10,000 USD....
This bike will have a brand new mild performance engine, built by MRE, excell wheels, pro tapers, scotts damper, applied tripples, billet pieces abound, new kicker, new shifter, all new cables, new PWK 39 mm, CR250 ignition, new clutch, hinson basket, all new brakes, stainless lines, ebc pads, new linkage and swingarm bearings, wheel bearings, new SDG seat, all new plastic, etc etc...
its a brand new bike essentially, with some high end components for less money than the MPS or SH bikes.
Thats the back side, against the motor and it will look the same throwing roost at the 4 strokes at 60 mph anyway...
- britincali
- Posts: 8207
- Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
- Location: Barstow, CA
- britincali
- Posts: 8207
- Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
- Location: Barstow, CA
Wow god damn dude chill out.
Would you rather me just be like the other site and say "Looks awesome, great job! Fantastic skills!!!"
Its nothing personal so quit being a bitch and taking it so, the Y looks like shit and from your reaction it looks like you knew it.
Heres a big kiss for your wounded pussy
Would you rather me just be like the other site and say "Looks awesome, great job! Fantastic skills!!!"
Its nothing personal so quit being a bitch and taking it so, the Y looks like shit and from your reaction it looks like you knew it.
Heres a big kiss for your wounded pussy
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Actually the back side odf the Y isn't my favorite pice of it, but I think the front plate and the pipe turned out well.
Overall, I think it turned out really well, much nicer than some of the shit guys are making, much better than MPS junk, and better than the 3 service honda's I have seen personally.
It is over built, and pretty wasn't priority, strength, and reliability are.
whatever, as long as the guy riding it is happy, it doesn't break on him, thats all that matters
Since it is going to be sold, STRENGTH was the only true concern in my mind.
Overall, I think it turned out really well, much nicer than some of the shit guys are making, much better than MPS junk, and better than the 3 service honda's I have seen personally.
It is over built, and pretty wasn't priority, strength, and reliability are.
whatever, as long as the guy riding it is happy, it doesn't break on him, thats all that matters
Since it is going to be sold, STRENGTH was the only true concern in my mind.
-
- Posts: 425
- Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
- Location: Tillsonburg On
As long as you're happy dub, that's the part that matters. Maybe it's not the prettiest to some guys, but everything can't be a Picasso. Maybe some pf the guys could go a little lighter on the comments. "If you can't say anything good, don't say anything at all." If it lines up and it's structurally sound, TWIST ON 'ER, MOFO!!! Hey, just a thought. Find that guy from Edmonton and ask his secret about the intake. THAT was a nice piece. As far as the MPS statement goes, you have no idea how right that is. My build was a piece of shit to the point I am seriously thinking of cutting the whole thing out below the "Y" and starting over. Just for piece of mind. And fuck the grand it cost me. Calling Roosty or Solid and buying 2 new frame rails right back to the footpegs. My dad always taught me "If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right." Too bad MPS hadn't heard that.
-
- Posts: 425
- Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
- Location: Tillsonburg On
I just did a similar frame build but I cut the y a lot lower down to leave a bit more material in it. I cut it/raised it just enough to clear the exhaust port and cut off the spring hook "ears" from the exhaust flange and used Allen head bolts that I side drilled the head of to allow the spring to hook right onto the bolts for tighter clearance. I used swivel springs so they don't want to twist and undo the bolts from the cylinder.
Then to reinforce the modified y I did the split half tube hussars over the top of the y. Also filled in the bottomside with 3mm flat alloy that was shaped to fit inside.
All in I was able to achieve a very oem look that has had a couple of people unsure of what's been modified. All I did to clean up after the welding was to use aluminum cleaner and scotchbrite pads to bring back the oem brushed clean look.
Then to reinforce the modified y I did the split half tube hussars over the top of the y. Also filled in the bottomside with 3mm flat alloy that was shaped to fit inside.
All in I was able to achieve a very oem look that has had a couple of people unsure of what's been modified. All I did to clean up after the welding was to use aluminum cleaner and scotchbrite pads to bring back the oem brushed clean look.
-
- Posts: 425
- Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
- Location: Tillsonburg On
Ya I asked him about that. His reply was that he didn't want people copying his work. Lmao. Now I see why. Pics I saw didn't give enough definition to give anything away, should've been smarter. Oh well. Should've walked when I realized he was a mouth breather. "Sittin in the corner blowin' bubbles." Oh, THAT, and he was full of shit. Blinded by the need for an AF. At least I'm not alone in the pool of misery.
Wait till you see my other frame....
I didn't use billet insrts at the butt welds, my ears are burning already...
Its a bitch using a grinder in -15C weather, gets dark early, like 5:00 Pm, my face sheild kept frosting up, and its not nearly as nice weather to work as +20C / 70F
I refuse to grind any metal in my shop, with all the other projects, parts, and motors in there...I hate the mess, so I have to do it outside in less than ideal conditions...
I didn't use billet insrts at the butt welds, my ears are burning already...
Its a bitch using a grinder in -15C weather, gets dark early, like 5:00 Pm, my face sheild kept frosting up, and its not nearly as nice weather to work as +20C / 70F
I refuse to grind any metal in my shop, with all the other projects, parts, and motors in there...I hate the mess, so I have to do it outside in less than ideal conditions...
It is pretty easy for the grinder to get out of control on a guy.Fast little bastard dubious keep pluggin at them each one gets better
Here is one I finnished lastnight.
Here is one I finnished lastnight.
NAHA PRO HILLCLIMBER #216
LIVIN THE DREAM!!!
NOTHING BUT GREEN LABEL BLENDZALL!!!
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/P ... /Home.aspx
http://www.pro-hillclimbers.org/
LIVIN THE DREAM!!!
NOTHING BUT GREEN LABEL BLENDZALL!!!
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/P ... /Home.aspx
http://www.pro-hillclimbers.org/
-
- Posts: 425
- Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
- Location: Tillsonburg On
I love how clean fresh and oem looking Pauls work is on those frames. Factory "brushed" finish minimal if any gring marks and welds untouched. The only place I like seeing welds being ground is on the extension conversions where they are ground down to make the mid tube joint dissappear. Filet welds that have been ground are rarely attractive I find.
This all said Dubious it looks like you came up with a pretty solid way of reinforcing the Y that should add some strength and good support.
This all said Dubious it looks like you came up with a pretty solid way of reinforcing the Y that should add some strength and good support.
Dubiuos,
I think just because it is different, some people are hard to accept. My only advice is to watch the top of the Y where it is thin. I built a 125 the same way and in a short amount of time, it cracked at the thin spot. I had 2 pieces (one inside and one outside around the top). On the 125, we had to turn the Y around so that may be why it cracked. When you're riding it, they all feel the same, ground or not.
I think just because it is different, some people are hard to accept. My only advice is to watch the top of the Y where it is thin. I built a 125 the same way and in a short amount of time, it cracked at the thin spot. I had 2 pieces (one inside and one outside around the top). On the 125, we had to turn the Y around so that may be why it cracked. When you're riding it, they all feel the same, ground or not.