Clutch rod removal
Clutch rod removal
I'm taking apart the clutch on my '01.
I'v removed the clutch hub and rod lever but the rod only moves about 10mm and sticks.Why? Is there anything holding it?
I'v removed the clutch hub and rod lever but the rod only moves about 10mm and sticks.Why? Is there anything holding it?
Keep it real, Keep it steel.
It probably has a burr on the rod. You might have to split the cases to get it out with out fucking something else up...
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- Roostius_Maximus
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the arm on the ignition side has been adjusted wrong and worn into the shaft, it'll be tight, but it'll go.
pull the ignition off, take the arm out, get a phillips screwdriver down in there and help it thru the small pilot hole it has in the casting.
pull the ignition off, take the arm out, get a phillips screwdriver down in there and help it thru the small pilot hole it has in the casting.
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Ok after a long time working on other bikes/injuries I finaly got back to the clutch rod issue.
No messing around this time,out with the vise grips.
Settled down with a beer to a bit of tugging and horsing of the clutch rod.
After a while I could feel the rod sticking as the bur was getting stuck.
Finaly the fecker came out.
Roostius was 100% correct.
It even has a blue heat band near the bur,must have been hammering on the acutator arm.
Got a new rod and arm ordered and I'm gonna replace the clutch with a Barnett carbon job.
I'm assuming this is caused by too much free play at the lever?
How do I set it up correctly?
No messing around this time,out with the vise grips.
Settled down with a beer to a bit of tugging and horsing of the clutch rod.
After a while I could feel the rod sticking as the bur was getting stuck.
Finaly the fecker came out.
Roostius was 100% correct.
It even has a blue heat band near the bur,must have been hammering on the acutator arm.
Got a new rod and arm ordered and I'm gonna replace the clutch with a Barnett carbon job.
I'm assuming this is caused by too much free play at the lever?
How do I set it up correctly?
Keep it real, Keep it steel.
Clutch Rod
I was wondering about this when I rebuilt my 85 but luckily mine came right out with my fingers. I always run some slack in the lever - but have felt many levers even on new bikes that were bar tight.
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- 2strokeforever
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what adjustment?the arm on the ignition side has been adjusted wrong and worn into the shaft
it looks like a worn pressure plate, clutch hub, and clutch pack could cause that....
my aluminum clutch plates wore 9 thou, and those discs still had a little life left in them, 3 or 4 clutch packs later and i bet that pushes the clutch rod back 80-100 thou
i am really excited to get my new clutch together, barnett basket and pressure plate, wiseco hub, stock springs, new bearings, and going to try out the tusk discs
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
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- Roostius_Maximus
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Do it, and turn it arround
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So i got the new rod and arm.
Put the two rods side by side and I can see the wear in the old rod.
The ends are flattened maybe a millimetre in total which I imagine would
have quite an effect on pressure plate movement.
This could why the accuator arm was hard up against the case and the clutch was still not released.
New one on Left lol
Put the two rods side by side and I can see the wear in the old rod.
The ends are flattened maybe a millimetre in total which I imagine would
have quite an effect on pressure plate movement.
This could why the accuator arm was hard up against the case and the clutch was still not released.
New one on Left lol
Last edited by mr500 on May 1st, 2012, 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Keep it real, Keep it steel.
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