BannedCR500Riders.com

I'll bet you have a cabinet full of fixturing , just stumbled on some photos of the cases & covers you've repaired , damn you got skill. Pm's from kx riders & here

Badass , that port work looks sweet. Must be worth doing if you've commited that much effort in fixturing the Rotler to do it. Can millennium do deck plate honing & how big of piston you running with that sleeve. Thanks

Awesome thanks Roost, man I say that like every time I get on here. So is it worth it? Not afraid of labor.

I know this isn't a popular idea with most cr5 guys but if anyone has tried it I'd like to hear about it. I have the thin sleeve 86 cylinder & there's a new aluminum sleeve out that seems like a great idea . My k5 runs really cool & the plating seems to last longer. The new AL sleeve is for the ...

I may be special but the frame wont be anealed

Maybe cardboard will hold if I only ride it when its dry out :wink:

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I'm only looking at the main holes to start , once I cut it & mount it I'll drill the rest. I know most everybodys vote is weld it , but... input?

Oh did I mention welding would have been cheaper & less time consuming

Its all stainless hardware I'm using & I'm taking advantage of the shank as suggested

It hangs low on the bottom side of the rail to attach a skid plate , I'm thinking you could possibly tune the flex here by the length of the welds where the skid plate attaches

The steel framed bikes use .100 plate for the mounts so I'm gonna assume .100 of 4130 should be good . Where I'm spreading the frame to wedge in-between the stock mount & motor I went with .050 plate but it will be double on the front mount creating more of a box with the front bit of ear I had left ...

Theres some ridging on the inside of the frame rail mounts I had to file smooth for idea # 2

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The front mount had some weld ridge too ...

slightly convex ratchet end to press against the cardboard and mount / hole faces.

I have a drawer full of steelies, if you dismember old bearings they still have a purpose

I know this may sound insulting, But: Cardboard Is Your Friend!

Appreciate it , already planned to use a thin cardboard that comes in engine gasket sets. I a got an 18"x 12" piece that I'm planning to incorporate into a skid plate/ front mount. The "bend" is done between the 2 motor mounts front ...

4130 plate arrived yesterday , I'll being working on it this weekend. Should have more pics sunday or late Sat.

Aint giving up yet .

The history on the frame is good , some people just shouldnt touch them. But it does save them from being ridden.

Yeah there is one of those on kxriders right now, WELDED :D

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Bearoso, Thanks again you really got my brain kicked in with your thoughts & this afternoon I think I got the right direction. Got some 4130 plate on the ...

Wow thanks for the excellent reply.

The extra 6mm bolt is shanked but would be "below" the existing 8mm which is shanked as well. The original frame mount is tapped so the nut is just a second locknut. I like your right angle idea does the aluminum frame hold the threads or would you use thread ...

three conection pionts

& that is why I asked. I can get a 3rd bolt in there, not triangulated though, it is wedged into the corner firm enough it doesnt pivot off the single bolt though.
I really dont like welding , or having AL welded. We have a hardness tester at work for AL & it doesnt take ...

Even if I do end up having it welded, I'd have the new mount welded to the the existing mount to reduce anealing of the down tubes.

I'll run it, if it loosens up I can always have it welded up later. Thanks for the help

I dont weld AL , I've also read on here of bolting in the front mount.

Cool you have had your laugh , could I get some productive input, hence my asking

"Any pics of easier or better NO WELD techniques?"

I realize it aint the shit, but , could I have expressed the idea without actually doing it ...

I'm working on a gen 3 & I'm trying to avoid welding the front mounts. I pushed the rails forward with a hydraulic ram, lopped some of the stock front mount off & this is what I have so far.

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https://bannedcr500riders ...

too much skirt thrust if its moved

Never thought of that, just that banshee s & 250r raise the pin height for longer rods seemed like a good idea.

Skirt thrust does sound like it could be fun though

Like the title says, Short Rod Piston with long rod compensated pin height? Anybody make one? Any demand? Its like $1000 or $2000 buy in for custom pistons aint it? Or are custom rods cheaper?

Cylinder spacers are ... :shortbus:

Also can I just change the clutch pushrod from a newer motor & add ...

The "W" is wiseco & if you notice how the sides of the piston arent machined as well as the circlip removal spot, I'd bet it is a early 2000's piston from when wiseco tried to cheap out & cut a bunch of corners

get the 89-01 kicker so it will clear the low-boy pipe you have to use, it has like a funky c twist in the middle to get around the tail section of the pipe. On the 86 your pipe goes over the top of that kicker so I'd think it will interfere.

Polished or not you got some dedication to do all that ...

Yep it would even fit my old cr450r. :D Interchangability is sweet like a big block chev.

"I could not locate a Williams Racing in San Jose"
He suposedly does midgets with a 500 motor.

I think AlisoBob might know more than hes saying. Or could just be a :twisted: computer guiness , man thats ...