spark plug reading / jetting????

[2strokeforever]

so heres the story
165 main jet
dgn needle 2nd from the top
42 pilot jet
airscrew 3/4 - 1 turn out (depending on the weather)
927 at 40:1
new motor, fresh packing good gas
1000-3000ft elevation
no spooge coming out of silencer
i get the same or better mileage than the 250s i ride with, but none of then are jetted properly so i dont know if that means anything at all?

by canadian standards it runs magical, but i know it can be better

if i adjust the airscrew to the highest idle speed, i have a small bog under hard aceleration from IDLE, so i ended up going in 1/2 a turn from highest idle, and that gets rid of my high idle bog, but i think its making the pilot low rpm idle too rich???, the plug is a tiny bit wet after super low rpm riding under 1/4 throttle

mid rpm seems to be "perfect"

when i went from a 168 to 165 main there was a big improvement in top end and overrev, but for my plug test i could only hold it wide open for 5-7 seconds straight, then turn and do it again a few times so it was hot and running wfo for 30 out of 50 seconds with the last 6 or so wide open, and i would end up with a plug that was black ish with a grey skiff on top on the porcelain but no brown???? and the ground arm was hot metal color but no deposits at all
i was listening for pinging and didnt hear any and i inspected the plug for sings of melting and couldnt find any

heres a pic of the pipe

is that really hot, or how far is it okay for the blue to get?

looking at this chart if im rich at idle and a little lean at high idle should i get a 1471 or 1470???


should the plug be brown at ANY RPM or does it only go brown at half throttle and above????

and is it always wet at idle?? if jetted perfectly

it d be great if glen and roosty would share what they know

[britincali]

No pilot jet on that chart?

[2strokeforever]

air screw / slow jet bottom left, bright red line

[seanmx57]

you didn't say how many turns out you are on the AS to get the max idle RPM. I doubt changing the needle will make your AS/pilot work better.

Once you get it perfect, something will change, filter, temp, altitude etc, At some point it's "good enough"

Got a zip ty AS yet?

read up on intelajets at www.thunderproducts.com if you want to be able to adjust on the fly like you can with a Zip ty AS.

[OUTKAST INC.]

3 to 5 seconds will not get you a main jet reading , might look for a long i mead really long hill or some sand whereyou can get it wide open under a load for at least 10 sec , then look at the edge of the center electrode should be shiny all around and you should be able to see a dark shadow under the side electrode from the base of the plug to just past the 90 degree spot

[2strokeforever]

you didn't say how many turns out you are on the AS to get the max idle RPM. I doubt changing the needle will make your AS/pilot work better.

if i adjust the airscrew to the highest idle speed, i have a small bog under hard aceleration from IDLE, so i ended up going in 1/2 a turn from highest idle,

under hard aceleration from IDLE im usualy around 1/3 throttle. and when i say idle i mean chain slapping and the lowest rpm the motor can stay running
so 1 1/4 was highest idle

just from looking at the chart im pretty sure that the green area straight diameter is what is causing me issues because i have to go rich on the airscrew to make the 1/3 to 1/4 not too lean

does anyone have a few needles they can rent to me, or sell cheap?? (roosty???) 1471/1470 DGL/DGM

Got a zip ty AS yet?

read up on intelajets at www.thunderproducts.com if you want to be able to adjust on the fly like you can with a Zip ty AS.

as soon as i get a 18"rear + tubliss+scotts dampener and 250 ignition ill get the intelajet, where can i find this zipty airscrew??? will one off a fcr fit??

Once you get it perfect, something will change, filter, temp, altitude etc, At some point it's "good enough"

i feel im close but not close enough, i cant really have the pilot rich when im doing 50+ mile ST loops on the stock tank, and id rather not have to carry gas on my back

totaly unrelated but after 1-2 hours not going above 1/3 throttle very much when i go wfo it smokes pretty bad, the motor isnt loading up and i wouldnt be able to tell if i dont look, still running crisp

is that from castors high burning temperature that it just fills up when going slow and burns off when i crank on it? or should it be running hot enough to smoke a little all the time, and not much more when wound out

im thinking of maybe switching oil to something cheaper after i can do a proper main plug test, then adjust from there

i could always pull a brit and "custom" grind a flat spot in the straight part of the needle till im happy with it, or till i ruin it

[MojoScojo]

Stop obsessing and just ride the thing.

If mileage is really an issue, get a bigger tank.

The Zip-Ty airscrew is worth EVERY penny.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/pro ... d=MTEwMA==

totaly unrelated but after 1-2 hours not going above 1/3 throttle very much when i go wfo it smokes pretty bad, the motor isnt loading up and i wouldnt be able to tell if i dont look, still running crisp

1-2 hours not above 1/3 throttle? Sounds like me. Yeah, that is what happens. Oil migration is the issue there, but this is a good thing. Everything is being well lubricated. Then you light it up and all that oil that was lubricating your bottom end suddenly migrates to the combustion chamber. Lotsa smoke for a few then all clear. Have you thought about changing your ratio?

im thinking of maybe switching oil to something cheaper after i can do a proper main plug test, then adjust from there

Rather than going cheap, I think I'd go toward a good synthetic oil at a higher ratio. 50:1 or 60:1


Or, you can ignore me. I'm no tuner by any means. I spend WAY more time riding than tuning.

[britincali]

The Zip-Ty airscrew is worth EVERY penny.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/pro ... d=MTEwMA==

.

I have one and its was definatly "worth every penny" as Ty gave it to me for free

I installed it but have never once messed with it during a ride.

[MojoScojo]

Truth be told, I didn't pay for mine either, but I do use it and would certainly buy another.

[AlisoBob]

Stop obsessing and just ride the thing.

Best quote of the month......

[2strokeforever]

MojoScojo wrote:

Stop obsessing and just ride the thing.

i ride every friday saturday and sunday for at least 6 hours each day,and on the other 4 days i get to pile on the green chain, so i cant possibly ride more and in the last 2 weeks ive spent less than half an hour messing with the carb, its just i know theres room for improvement

Have you thought about changing your ratio?
Rather than going cheap, I think I'd go toward a good synthetic oil at a higher ratio. 50:1 or 60:1

no because when i go to kamloops i rev the piss out of it, and when i said cheaper i didnt mean super tech, i meant semi synthetic that says its good up to 100:1 ratios, but ill still stay at 40:1
when winter comes ill have to change oil so i might as well figure it out soon, and 927 is $100 a gallon in canada from the dealer

i keep a screwdriver jamed in where the gas tank breather hose goes and mess with the airscrew while waiting for other people, so im definatly getting the zipty friday when i get paid

[MojoScojo]

i ride every friday saturday and sunday for at least 6 hours each day,and on the other 4 days i get to pile on the green chain, so i cant possibly ride more

Color me jealous.

[2strokeforever]

i noticed a lot of guys all but quit riding as soon as they get a wife/girlfriend, and there broke so i figure i might as well get my time in while i can
its nice to have $400 extra every week just to spend on my bike

[AlisoBob]

I ride every friday saturday and sunday for at least 6 hours each day.

And everyone of those 12 hours is a different temp, humididty, and barometric pressure than the one that came before it, and after it.

These carbs are not lo-tech, their no-tech.

Its real easy to chase your tail looking to get that last 10% just right.

[100hp honda]

then you figure in soil. brown plug in sand is black plug in dirt.

[AlisoBob]

then you figure in soil. brown plug in sand is black plug in dirt.

Brown plug is dirt on a hill, black is flat sand K.C.

[2strokeforever]

And everyone of those 12 hours is a different temp, humididty, and barometric pressure than the one that came before it, and after it.

These carbs are not lo-tech, their no-tech.

Its real easy to chase your tail looking to get that last 10% just right.

it dosent bother me if the mixture changes across the whole board, which it does, its the consistant tiny lean spot that pisses me off

i got a question for those with a intelajet or dial a jet, if i have a certain area that is lean will the intelajet automatically richen that area, or does it richen everything.
it says to jet it 20% leaner, so will i end up jeting it up to par then leaning it by exactly 20%
, or can i just roughly lean it out 20% and will the inelajet do the rest?

does anyone have a DGM or a DGl that they want too sell, to canada?

[100hp honda]

then you figure in soil. brown plug in sand is black plug in dirt.

Brown plug is dirt on a hill, black is flat sand K.C.

bad mood cuz your junk was broke down all weekend ? . must a been a bummer

[AlisoBob]

bad mood cuz your junk was broke down all weekend ?

You in a bad mood because your broke as a joke, no girl , and only have VHS porn to whack it to?

I had a outstanding weekend with some great friends and put 11 gallons of fuel through my bike and it quit Sunday at noon.

More than you did by far K.C.



Sturgis Hillclimbs are this weekend, and where are you???



The bathroom needs mopping Clyde, get on it... before they fire you and replace you with a wetback.

[seanmx57]

I don't know of anyone else running an intelajet other than me. Did you read the tech article on it on the thunder web site? some of it is way over a newbie's head.

I would rather ride at this point than rejet, too lazy to wash her to have a clean carb to tinker on. I'm loading up and rich at the moment. pretty hot here.

read the tech article and call em for your ?'s, I get kinda lost when they get into acoustics and the explanations of how it works. I would think it works on vacuum but the article claims it's more sophisticated than that.

mine was real good until I started messing with putting a powernow wing in there, now it's too rich, can you send me a needle to borrow???????

[2strokeforever]

can you send me a needle to borrow???????

i meant a bunch of he so i can find out what works best without buying a whole bunch of them, they arent cheap in canada

[seanmx57]

not cheap anywhere.

[100hp honda]

who gives a shit. if dirt comes out the tire its good enough.

[M.F.D.B.]

927 is $100 a gallon in canada from the dealer

I can get it for you for under $30 a 1/2 gallon and shipping to Canook Land averages $20-$30 so if you bought a few of those and a few needles that would save you a ton of cash...

Plus if you get the order in while the coupons are still good you can save 10% also...

BTW I have been screwing with my 250 since I bought it and I can jet it from rich/blubbering/black plug down to lean enough to ping and turn the plug white one size at a time and never see a brown plug...

[2strokeforever]

927 is $100 a gallon in canada from the dealer

now that i count while im awake its 21$ a quart so its $84, but later ill get a whack of stuff
thanks

BTW I have been screwing with my 250 since I bought it and I can jet it from rich/blubbering/black plug down to lean enough to ping and turn the plug white one size at a time and never see a brown plug..

.

let me guess its a cr 02 or newer... ,been there done that with a 125, check the sparkplug cap, mine was causing most of the eratic jetting issues on my 02 cr 125