first time rebuilding tranny, need pointers
first time rebuilding tranny, need pointers
So I tore her down. I was getting oil that looked like it should be paint, plenty of metal. I was also occasionally missing shifts from 3'rd to 4'th.
So I get the tranny out and notice the bearing that has the idler gear on the other side isn't in the case. It came out with the tranny but was not stuck to the shaft. I have to get a magnifying glass to closely inspect it but I was able to instal and remove the bearing by had. Not exactly the fit I was hoping for. Looks like the bearing was spinning in the hole and giving me pretty oil. What would make this happen?
The motor is a 2000 with MX gears in 4'th and 5'th that are lower ratio. The motor has been apart 3 or 4 times for gear changes, crank work etc. Not a whole lot of hours on it.
Is the case junk or can I use locktight and a new bearing to hold her together? is there another product similar to locktight to fill the void? The bearing fits pretty tight.
I noticed that 4'th gear dogs are a slight bit rounded off. I use 4'th a lot for MX so I'm guessing I should not mess around and just change them.
I've read stuff Adam has posted about the 98+ trannys having wider gears. Will having the older 4'th and 5'th mess up the spacing thus cuasing the 4'th to round off?
So I get the tranny out and notice the bearing that has the idler gear on the other side isn't in the case. It came out with the tranny but was not stuck to the shaft. I have to get a magnifying glass to closely inspect it but I was able to instal and remove the bearing by had. Not exactly the fit I was hoping for. Looks like the bearing was spinning in the hole and giving me pretty oil. What would make this happen?
The motor is a 2000 with MX gears in 4'th and 5'th that are lower ratio. The motor has been apart 3 or 4 times for gear changes, crank work etc. Not a whole lot of hours on it.
Is the case junk or can I use locktight and a new bearing to hold her together? is there another product similar to locktight to fill the void? The bearing fits pretty tight.
I noticed that 4'th gear dogs are a slight bit rounded off. I use 4'th a lot for MX so I'm guessing I should not mess around and just change them.
I've read stuff Adam has posted about the 98+ trannys having wider gears. Will having the older 4'th and 5'th mess up the spacing thus cuasing the 4'th to round off?
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M4/M3
C2/C4 gears all have a rounded edge, guessing .025" for depth of rounding, definately not square.
The forks looked good but some showed sign of mild wear at the base, opposite the tip. not enough to wear the whole flat surface just the bottom edge.
The bearing has a slight amount of slop in the hole.
noticed the bearing behind the clutch acts like it had dirt in it, doesn't turn very well but is still tight. Blew it out once with brake clean, didn't seem to help.
Do the old gears being narrow contribute to the rounding problem?
C2/C4 gears all have a rounded edge, guessing .025" for depth of rounding, definately not square.
The forks looked good but some showed sign of mild wear at the base, opposite the tip. not enough to wear the whole flat surface just the bottom edge.
The bearing has a slight amount of slop in the hole.
noticed the bearing behind the clutch acts like it had dirt in it, doesn't turn very well but is still tight. Blew it out once with brake clean, didn't seem to help.
Do the old gears being narrow contribute to the rounding problem?
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if the bearing wobbles in the hole, you may have a larger scale problem. if its kind of tight but still slides in and out by hand then the problem isnt that great. theres supposed to be a small amount of interference fit. except on one of the bearings that has a plate holding it in, that one wont have any interference fit, or very very little at most. its hard to judge how bad the problem is through a keyboard
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i understand what your saying. he might have a small amount of spinnage, or he might need a new case half, some of the grey oil may have been from the clutch plates also, so the problem may not be exteremley severe. however "wobbling" dont sound good ... could be why the tranny didnt work very good, the shafts werent staying parallelAlisoBob wrote:Keyboard or no keyboard.... if the oil looks like silver paint.... its bad.
definately no wobble.
Hard to feel the slop between the bearing and hole
oil is far from silver but you can see metal in it that was not normal.
I can't believe it happened. I change oil every 3 or 4 rides which means about every 6 to 10 hours. Maybe it has something to do with the motor being torn down so many times messing around.
i don't see any product on the locktite site othe than maybe epoxie made for metal that might help.
Hard to feel the slop between the bearing and hole
oil is far from silver but you can see metal in it that was not normal.
I can't believe it happened. I change oil every 3 or 4 rides which means about every 6 to 10 hours. Maybe it has something to do with the motor being torn down so many times messing around.
i don't see any product on the locktite site othe than maybe epoxie made for metal that might help.
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- thestuz
- Posts: 723
- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
i had the same problem with my 01 engine.
the gbox oil would come out looking like graphite paste. kinda metalic silver.
i pulled the thing down twice to try find the problem.,replaced bearings, couldn find any signs of bearing spin either. i replaced the clutch and filed down the basket fingers smooth again(to fix my clutch drag problem) and that seemed to help a bit.i still get the problem, although its not as bad as it used to be.
i installed a strong earth magnet in the drain bolt and realised that the metallic stuff was alloy, not steel.
judging by the wear on my clutch basket, and how fine the particles are and the absence of any mechanical failure, im assuming its wear from the clutch basket in my case.because after tearing it apart twice there are no other signs of it being anything else!
remedy=change gbox oil after every ride, use 900 ml of cheap grade motor oil everytime
the gbox oil would come out looking like graphite paste. kinda metalic silver.
i pulled the thing down twice to try find the problem.,replaced bearings, couldn find any signs of bearing spin either. i replaced the clutch and filed down the basket fingers smooth again(to fix my clutch drag problem) and that seemed to help a bit.i still get the problem, although its not as bad as it used to be.
i installed a strong earth magnet in the drain bolt and realised that the metallic stuff was alloy, not steel.
judging by the wear on my clutch basket, and how fine the particles are and the absence of any mechanical failure, im assuming its wear from the clutch basket in my case.because after tearing it apart twice there are no other signs of it being anything else!
remedy=change gbox oil after every ride, use 900 ml of cheap grade motor oil everytime
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
- thestuz
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- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
and yes ive had steel plates the whole time.
and i use locktite for loose bearings. they do have a product for the problem you have.
ps, what gearing are you using for mx?
and i use locktite for loose bearings. they do have a product for the problem you have.
ps, what gearing are you using for mx?
Last edited by thestuz on March 26th, 2010, 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
- thestuz
- Posts: 723
- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
if its not spun too badly, the case is still salvagable with loctite.AlisoBob wrote:Thats like saying someone has a "small amount" of being pregnant.100hp honda wrote: he might have a small amount of spinnage...
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
Thanks Bob. That's some real info I needed to know.AlisoBob wrote:I properly rebuilt CR500 Shortblock lasts YEARS!!! I know a few guys who did the Loctite thing.... none lasted more than a few months.
I looked at the locktite site, didn't see any product that looked like it was for this type of problem. Checked the permatex site too. All gone for friday beers at customer service. I definately do not want to tear down again for many years.
I noticed that the locktite epoxy is "resistant" to chemicals. Not sure if if would do the job if the case and the bearing had small grooves cut in them to give the epoxy a mechanical way to grab.
My basket is billet, stormin normin, no notches in 9 years.
I run 14/51 gearing. you won't understand. regardless, I start in 3'rd and never EVER go below 3'rd on a MX track of any type. I use 4'th A lot and 14/51 pulls very well with new 140/80 tires with the motor breathed on a bit. Anything taller than 14/49 would be like taking a nap for me. I like her to shit and get. No waiting. When I'm not in shape, after watching it snow for 4+ months I run 14/49 for a couple rides or for very, very fast tracks.
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- britincali
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- Location: Barstow, CA
- britincali
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- 2strokekyle
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THats not it......britincali wrote:http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-129994 ... ainer.html
http://kraftindustrialsupply.com/bearing_retaining.htm
#640 and #680 is what they used.....
Honda didnt design the cases to be apart 4x times...
- britincali
- Posts: 8207
- Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
- Location: Barstow, CA
AlisoBob wrote:
#640 and #680 is what they used.....
Honda didnt design the cases to be apart 4x times...
Whose they? Ive used the sleeve stuff before with no issues....
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
If you click the pic on the East Coast Gear Supply to enlarge it, you will see a tube of Loctite 640.AlisoBob wrote:THats not it......britincali wrote:http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-129994 ... ainer.html
http://kraftindustrialsupply.com/bearing_retaining.htm
#640 and #680 is what they used.....
Honda didnt design the cases to be apart 4x times...