Radiator converting
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Radiator converting
I would like to see an indepth post reguarding radiator converting.
Don't Clyde it, ride it!
- eyesky2002
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- Posts: 1898
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- teemtrubble
- Posts: 2269
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This is the best advise I can give..
Use CRF rad's, and convert the flow path to mimic the original CR500 flow path.
You dont have to hassle with the copper fittings, but assemble the parts as shown.
Mike uses the CRF rad's on his Gen 3 125 conversions too.
1. Highest coolant volume
2. Large hose connections
3. Same bolt pattern
4. Great cooling.
If you want to use the stock Gen 3 rads, you can use them to mimic the orginal C500 flow path as well, but I think it will run hotter than the 4 stroke units.
Use CRF rad's, and convert the flow path to mimic the original CR500 flow path.
You dont have to hassle with the copper fittings, but assemble the parts as shown.
Mike uses the CRF rad's on his Gen 3 125 conversions too.
1. Highest coolant volume
2. Large hose connections
3. Same bolt pattern
4. Great cooling.
If you want to use the stock Gen 3 rads, you can use them to mimic the orginal C500 flow path as well, but I think it will run hotter than the 4 stroke units.
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- iggys-amsoil
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- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
A new set will set you back around $280. The stock CR250 gen3's work great. However the crf ones look narrower and taller more like the steelies. The CR250 can get that molded Jawbone hillclimb imprint look from your leg like mine.
Trinity Racing mild porting FMF
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
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Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
Actually, gen. two rads work better than gen. three rads for a gen. three conversion because you do not have to modify the lower cross-over spouts...they are already pointing at each other. I believe you still may have to modify the downward spout that is feeding the waterpump however.
Last edited by ShanMan on February 6th, 2008, 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
CR500AC widget maker
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- Location: Prescott
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- Posts: 1898
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- eyesky2002
- Posts: 492
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Looking thru the fiche, looks like the 02-04 CR250 use the same radiator, which looks similar to the 01 only a different part #. Anyone have a 02-04 CR250 rad and a 02-04 CRF 450 rad to compare mounting locations; maybe post measurements??? I already have a new CRF450 left rad that I need the outlet rotated; been shopping for a deal on the right one, but this idea may open up a whole new window for a right one that needs no modifaction.
Last edited by eyesky2002 on March 6th, 2008, 12:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"When your riding your living... Everything else is just waiting!"
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2003 Honda CR500AF
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2003 Honda CR500AF
- AUSSIECR500AF
- Posts: 37
- Joined: February 1st, 2008, 12:32 pm
- Location: Sydney, Australia
I may as well throw my two cents in.
I have a CR500AF, CRF450 02 Setup. I bought silicon hoses from a performance car part supplier (readliy available in all countries). When I bought the bike, the main linking hose (radiator to radiator) ran straight across the cylinder, it was touching and with enough heat, would have melted causing untold damage. Using the new hoses, a standard aluminum T piece (make sure the diameter is as close as the internal diamater of the hose, a 90 degree aluminium elbow and some stainelss steel hose clamps, I have created an awesome coolant system that doesn't touch any heated parts and flows well. No additional welds, add-ons required.
I have ridden the bike in extreme temperatures and the bike has never screemed for water. It took me a good 2 hours thinking about the hose routings, 8 beers, 2 scotches, a couple of phone calls and all my questions were answered.
Sit down near you bike, visually picture what you want to see and with enough tenacity and patience, you too will make a great coolant routing system.
My rule was, keep the diameters the same, limit the internal diamater of the hoses when bending them (i acutally used a hose clamp where the hoses bent to open up the diamter to reduce the crink in the hose) and the rest will be sweet.
Comparative analysis was used to determine if the AF was running at the same temps as my steely 500 and the results speak for themself.
Its not rocket science and I can only suggest you use common sense (if you ride a 500 and live to tell the stories, you have nothing to worry about) you will be fine.
One last point, the 500 engine has a great water pump and will push the water through with ease. All you have to do is keep the internal diameters of the hoses as consistent as possible and MAKE SURE they are NOT TOUCING either the cylinder, head or Radiators.
If you wants pics of my config, let me know.
Keep the dream alive
I have a CR500AF, CRF450 02 Setup. I bought silicon hoses from a performance car part supplier (readliy available in all countries). When I bought the bike, the main linking hose (radiator to radiator) ran straight across the cylinder, it was touching and with enough heat, would have melted causing untold damage. Using the new hoses, a standard aluminum T piece (make sure the diameter is as close as the internal diamater of the hose, a 90 degree aluminium elbow and some stainelss steel hose clamps, I have created an awesome coolant system that doesn't touch any heated parts and flows well. No additional welds, add-ons required.
I have ridden the bike in extreme temperatures and the bike has never screemed for water. It took me a good 2 hours thinking about the hose routings, 8 beers, 2 scotches, a couple of phone calls and all my questions were answered.
Sit down near you bike, visually picture what you want to see and with enough tenacity and patience, you too will make a great coolant routing system.
My rule was, keep the diameters the same, limit the internal diamater of the hoses when bending them (i acutally used a hose clamp where the hoses bent to open up the diamter to reduce the crink in the hose) and the rest will be sweet.
Comparative analysis was used to determine if the AF was running at the same temps as my steely 500 and the results speak for themself.
Its not rocket science and I can only suggest you use common sense (if you ride a 500 and live to tell the stories, you have nothing to worry about) you will be fine.
One last point, the 500 engine has a great water pump and will push the water through with ease. All you have to do is keep the internal diameters of the hoses as consistent as possible and MAKE SURE they are NOT TOUCING either the cylinder, head or Radiators.
If you wants pics of my config, let me know.
Keep the dream alive
- teemtrubble
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- AUSSIECR500AF
- Posts: 37
- Joined: February 1st, 2008, 12:32 pm
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- AUSSIECR500AF
- Posts: 37
- Joined: February 1st, 2008, 12:32 pm
- Location: Sydney, Australia