I have 'persuaded' my chassis with the trusty bottle jack, but had super tight fitment, ie, the bolt heads for the exhaust flange hitting the Y piece, maybe i should have tweaked further, but i have great water pump clearance and an engine that sits nice and snug.
I really dont want to be scalloping out the underside of my Y if i can help it, i have looked and looked into doing that, but I have figured a way around it.
The 2 upper most holes in the flange I have countersunk, I then used some allen headed countersunk bolts. This still didnt give me enough, so with the bench grinder i put a taper on the bolt heads mirroring the countersunk element of it , like ..... <> , thus removing material at 45 degrees to within 0.5mm (0.020) of the 'hex'.
I then with the dremel tool put a 45 degree taper around the outers of the holes on the exhaust flange to pretty much match my bolts.
I now have zero clearance issues with the bolts, the pipe clears the under side of the Y.
I will not be able to remove the cylinder without removing the engine from the frame, but for how many bolts it takes, i can cope with that I am sure.
I cant use the bolt on spring eyelets (thats if it had one on the upper mount, i got the engine in a box) but i am going to have some eyelets welded on properly, slightly lower than the top 2 bolts. I will then either use springs with a portion of just wire like >>>> 0---------//////////-0 or, shorter springs and a suitable 'joiner' to mate them to the flange. This way I dont need to make clearance for springs, no scalloping and welding in 'half' tubes for springs. Hopefully it will work out good.
The only welding I will have on the chassis will be the 2 front motor mounts from Pstoffers, and an exhaust bracket mount.
