What weight oil???
What weight oil???
What weight / brand fork oil should I use in my 01 forks?
Kent
Kent
- thestuz
- Posts: 723
- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
ive had real good results with quality 5 wht oil. i think the recommended is 7 or 10wht.
if your forks are feeling soft then use the thicker 7 or 10 wht.
if your forks have a lot of push or are harsh, try a 5 wht.
if your forks are feeling soft then use the thicker 7 or 10 wht.
if your forks have a lot of push or are harsh, try a 5 wht.
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
I dont personally think changing the oil weight is a good idea. Thats what valving is for. Keep the brand and weight of the oil the same and revalve them till you are happy. I personally like Maxima and have been running it for a while (3 oil changes this year). If you are racing and need the ultimate oil Ohlins seems to be the local favorite (of racers)...
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
- NightBiker07
- Posts: 1942
- Joined: April 16th, 2008, 8:59 pm
- Location: USA
damn, is there an easy way to change the fork oil? i dont want to tear my forks apart every year to change the oil in them......M.F.D.B. wrote: (3 oil changes this year).
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
YEAR? I hope you dont ride much! Oil change is super easy so there is no excuse to ruin your handling and advance the wear of your suspension.NightBiker07 wrote:damn, is there an easy way to change the fork oil? i dont want to tear my forks apart every year to change the oil in them......M.F.D.B. wrote: (3 oil changes this year).
Heck twin chambers (mine) are twice the work to change (unless you are only changing the outer) than regular and it only takes an hour to do both start to finish. In many Honda Service Manuals they have a chart that tells you how much oil is left in the fork in relation to how long the fork has been draining and you use this to calculate how much oil to add.
So:
Remove fork, crack the "bolt" loose, unthread and turn upside down in a bucket.
Measure the amount of oil needed to refill.
Refill and tighten the bolt.
Pretty easy?
I used to be scared to death of suspension until I finally broke down and did the first re-spring/re-valve. Once you realize there isnt any Tom Cruise VooDoo in there its very simple...
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
- thestuz
- Posts: 723
- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
its much easier to change oil wht than change fork shims.as far as im aware, there are no adverse effects from changing oil weights.M.F.D.B. wrote:I dont personally think changing the oil weight is a good idea. Thats what valving is for. Keep the brand and weight of the oil the same and revalve them till you are happy. I personally like Maxima and have been running it for a while (3 oil changes this year). If you are racing and need the ultimate oil Ohlins seems to be the local favorite (of racers)...
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
Its much easier to just keep riding your bike than to clean the air filter, doesnt mean its right.thestuz wrote: its much easier to change oil wht than change fork shims.as far as im aware, there are no adverse effects from changing oil weights.
Heres a few things that come to mind:
Changing fork oil to "fix" suspension is like changing to main jet when your needle is to rich/lean.
Changing the weight of the oil effects the whole stroke equally. Which happens to be EXACTLY what the clickers do.
Not once in my experience has the entire valve curve been equally "wrong". This is the only time changing the oil alone would fix anything.
Changing oil weight when sorting out the suspension is like changing your pre-mix ratio when sorting out jetting. You need to keep everything else constant and focus on one change at a time so that the effect is easier to keep track of.
Im no expert suspension guy, but I have re-valved 3 different bikes both Showa and KYB and not once in any of the literature did they tell me to change the weight of the oil. Also, over the last year I have been tinkering with my YZ and talking to lots of different suspension companies including the guy who does Ty Davis's (Zip-Ty Racing) and they all same the same thing with oil, stick to the same weight...
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
- thestuz
- Posts: 723
- Joined: July 22nd, 2009, 10:04 pm
- Location: Troy, christies beach, south australia.
correct and fair enough. i used to do the same thing. i just find thinner 5wht oil has given me better results. i used to stick to the thick stuff but the local suspension pro got me onto the maxima 5wht. he is a qualified ohlins suspension specialist and does most of the road/dirt race suspension in the state. he never mentioned any adverse effects and i havent found any. and the results have always been good.
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
01 CR500
98XR600
94 FIREBLADE
ESTABLISHED 1977.
- NightBiker07
- Posts: 1942
- Joined: April 16th, 2008, 8:59 pm
- Location: USA
I ride a ton. I bet that when i replaced the seals/sliders and changed the oil, i was dumping out the oil that came in them from the factory.
What bolt are you referring to?
if the service manual outlines the procedure, ill dig through there.
What bolt are you referring to?
if the service manual outlines the procedure, ill dig through there.
M.F.D.B. wrote:YEAR? I hope you dont ride much! Oil change is super easy so there is no excuse to ruin your handling and advance the wear of your suspension.NightBiker07 wrote:damn, is there an easy way to change the fork oil? i dont want to tear my forks apart every year to change the oil in them......M.F.D.B. wrote: (3 oil changes this year).
Heck twin chambers (mine) are twice the work to change (unless you are only changing the outer) than regular and it only takes an hour to do both start to finish. In many Honda Service Manuals they have a chart that tells you how much oil is left in the fork in relation to how long the fork has been draining and you use this to calculate how much oil to add.
So:
Remove fork, crack the "bolt" loose, unthread and turn upside down in a bucket.
Measure the amount of oil needed to refill.
Refill and tighten the bolt.
Pretty easy?
I used to be scared to death of suspension until I finally broke down and did the first re-spring/re-valve. Once you realize there isnt any Tom Cruise VooDoo in there its very simple...
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
NightBiker07 wrote:I ride a ton. I bet that when i replaced the seals/sliders and changed the oil, i was dumping out the oil that came in them from the factory.
Most people call it the fork "cap". Its the top of the fork, where your clickers are.NightBiker07 wrote:What bolt are you referring to?
It most certainly does.NightBiker07 wrote:if the service manual outlines the procedure, ill dig through there.
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
Ive done one Honda, one Suzuki, one Yami, all used 5 wt...kw4570gov wrote:I thought I had lost my service manual but found it and it said 5 weight oil so that is what I used.
Thanks
Kent
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: June 6th, 2007, 7:33 pm
- Location: seattle
I know this is old news, but this method will only drain about 1/2 of the fork oil.M.F.D.B. wrote:So:
Remove fork, crack the "bolt" loose, unthread and turn upside down in a bucket.
Measure the amount of oil needed to refill.
Refill and tighten the bolt.
Pretty easy?
You need to separate the cap from the damper rod so you can remove the spring and pump the damper rod to remove ALL of the oil from the cartridge. Should still only take an hour or so...
5 weight is good...
You better hurry up and tell the manufacturers this...StinkFinger wrote: I know this is old news, but this method will only drain about 1/2 of the fork oil....
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
-
- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: June 6th, 2007, 7:33 pm
- Location: seattle
Do what you want, but I guarantee you are just adding new oil to the 10 ozs of old oil that is still in the cartridge. If you turn the forks upside down, without removing the caps, the oil must drain through the tiny damper holes on top of the rod..... should take 2-3 months or so..
Remove the cap and spring, pump the rod, and get ALL of the old oil out..
Go fuck yourself, and good night..
http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/T ... ail/364083
Remove the cap and spring, pump the rod, and get ALL of the old oil out..
Go fuck yourself, and good night..
http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/T ... ail/364083
AlisoBob wrote:Super Hunky Rulz!
x2
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying.
https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying.
https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
-
- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
If you are referring to the same forks im referring to (twin chamber) then this is INCORRECT...StinkFinger wrote: I know this is old news, but this method will only drain about 1/2 of the fork oil.
If this is in reference to the old style single chambers than you may be right as I have no experience with those. But if you are serious about performance and have a steelie, I would highly recommend hitting up ebay for some twin chambers and get some real forks. With the newer high/low speed shock this would make as good handling a setup as a steelie could ever hope for and relatively cheap...StinkFinger wrote:You need to separate the cap from the damper rod so you can remove the spring and pump the damper rod to remove ALL of the oil from the cartridge.
Right back at you dick breath...StinkFinger wrote: Go fuck yourself, and good night..
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: June 6th, 2007, 7:33 pm
- Location: seattle
First of all, the poster asked about the fork oil weight in his 2001... I can only assume it was a single chamber fork, because that is what is stock on a 2001.
You beat your cum catchers and told us about an oil changing method that wasn't true, or effective.
I actually had a set of dual-chambered Showas on my bike and didn't like them. Granted, they were early 1997 250 forks, but they didn't perform as good as a properly adjusted single chamber in the environment around here.
So bottom line, eat some food before you slip through your asshole and strangle your-self. See, I'm hella sophomoric!
You beat your cum catchers and told us about an oil changing method that wasn't true, or effective.
I actually had a set of dual-chambered Showas on my bike and didn't like them. Granted, they were early 1997 250 forks, but they didn't perform as good as a properly adjusted single chamber in the environment around here.
So bottom line, eat some food before you slip through your asshole and strangle your-self. See, I'm hella sophomoric!
- britincali
- Posts: 8207
- Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
- Location: Barstow, CA