R1470D and R1470N difference
R1470D and R1470N difference
I can only find the D needle locally and I want to know if it is worth while trying it. I am running a R1473L right now and it's too lean. The end number is supposed to be the straight length, but I can't find D or L on the charts.
I found a table that had some of the OEM needles in it, but can't find it now. I recall that OEM B, C, and D needles fall in between Keihin B and C needles (which fits based on the L1 spacing of the Keihin needles). So the D needle will be something around 4.5 clip positions richer than the N needle of same D1 and taper. The L needle is 1 clip position richer than the N needle
You will most likely want to stay with an N needle. I ran an OEM G needle for a brief period and it was clean to 1/4 throttle then got horribly rich.
1473 has a pretty lean D1.
fyi all the letters refer to OEM L1 markings.
You will most likely want to stay with an N needle. I ran an OEM G needle for a brief period and it was clean to 1/4 throttle then got horribly rich.
1473 has a pretty lean D1.
fyi all the letters refer to OEM L1 markings.
I found the chart and realized the L1 on the D needle is way too short.
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/_media/pdf/ ... eedles.pdf
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/_media/pdf/ ... eedles.pdf
That one doesn't have the OEM D needle on it, but you can interpolate to figure out the specs. I found a chart a while back that did list all the in between OEM needles that aren't shown on that one. I think it was on KTMTalk, but I'd have to dig to find the thread. There was a good thread on setting up the PWK39 over there.
Good luck. I ended up with a 1469N, but I'm running a PWK39.
Good luck. I ended up with a 1469N, but I'm running a PWK39.
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There are a bunch of odd OEM needles around.100hp honda wrote:1473L is very strange, closest match on sudco is DEP, 1470N is bobs magic needle DGL, 1470D is DCL which is same as CGL but longer L1 which is what your asking about. maybe you better have a glance at bobs jetting 101
Your code conversions don't make much sense to me

1473L doesn't sound right for some reason, maybe it was a 1473N. I'll have to double check. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be. I found a 1472N locally, and the bike still pings at around 1/4 throttle when it's hitting the powerband. My next step is a 1470N or a 1471N. I tried a DGJ, which I believe is a 1468N, and it was too rich.
I was running a 172 main and went up to a 175. I couldn't believe how rich it felt after going up three sizes.
I was running a 172 main and went up to a 175. I couldn't believe how rich it felt after going up three sizes.
Last edited by robertg on November 24th, 2009, 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Roostius_Maximus
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Robert, if its any help i think i have a few needles loose
Last edited by Roostius_Maximus on November 25th, 2009, 7:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- dannygraves
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is everyone smoking crack? DGN is a 1472N CGJ is the stocker 1368N
I don't understand why you are looking at OEM needles for other bikes, just call up sudco or CPW and order exactly what you need. The G in the middle of a keihin # is the same as the N at the end of the honda # which signifys length. the first letter in the keihin # and the first 2 numbers in the honda# signify taper. D=14 C=13. the last letter and 2nd pair of numbers signify the diameter before the taper starts N=72 J=68 L=70
That one needle you are looking at is for a smaller bore carb.
I'm running a 1370n in the gen-3 w/ a PJ carb that is a CGL
I don't understand why you are looking at OEM needles for other bikes, just call up sudco or CPW and order exactly what you need. The G in the middle of a keihin # is the same as the N at the end of the honda # which signifys length. the first letter in the keihin # and the first 2 numbers in the honda# signify taper. D=14 C=13. the last letter and 2nd pair of numbers signify the diameter before the taper starts N=72 J=68 L=70
That one needle you are looking at is for a smaller bore carb.
I'm running a 1370n in the gen-3 w/ a PJ carb that is a CGL
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Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80

Most places charge way too much for shipping to Canada so I just get OEM needles from a local dealer. It's usually faster also.dannygraves wrote:is everyone smoking crack?
I don't understand why you are looking at OEM needles for other bikes, just call up sudco or CPW and order exactly what you need.
Roostus, I may take you up on that offer in the spring. I pulled my bike apart last night, so the season is over for me.
Yes, I'm cuckoo for crackdannygraves wrote:is everyone smoking crack? DGN is a 1472N CGJ is the stocker 1368N
I don't understand why you are looking at OEM needles for other bikes, just call up sudco or CPW and order exactly what you need. The G in the middle of a keihin # is the same as the N at the end of the honda # which signifys length. the first letter in the keihin # and the first 2 numbers in the honda# signify taper. D=14 C=13. the last letter and 2nd pair of numbers signify the diameter before the taper starts N=72 J=68 L=70
That one needle you are looking at is for a smaller bore carb.
I'm running a 1370n in the gen-3 w/ a PJ carb that is a CGL
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Robert, I looked lastnight and have available:
1369n - CGK
1372n - CGN
1466n - DGH
1468n - DGJ
1470n - DGL
and one that says 28H froma PE carb that specs out like a 1470n - DGL
I have a 1472n - DGN in the AF bike
maybee a 1370n - CGL from my '87 if i change where it is too.
1369n - CGK
1372n - CGN
1466n - DGH
1468n - DGJ
1470n - DGL
and one that says 28H froma PE carb that specs out like a 1470n - DGL
I have a 1472n - DGN in the AF bike
maybee a 1370n - CGL from my '87 if i change where it is too.
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