slomas wrote:One thing with Cold Fusion... it is imperitive that you have a fully charged battery and under 1000 lbs. of bottle pressure or you risk the chance of the nitrous solenoid not opening and only getting fuel injected.
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At least it just floods itself instead of melting
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Don't know what Stoffers is running for a switch, but I tapped mine into the throttle housing and threaded the switch into the bottom where the throttle tube cam is.
SO I take it those 2 flat billers taht worked both of us really got you upset...
I think you should get the bigger carb setup squared away first. Plus I think a higher revving pipe would help too.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
dannygraves wrote:SO I take it those 2 flat billers taht worked both of us really got you upset...
I think you should get the bigger carb setup squared away first. Plus I think a higher revving pipe would help too.
I dont like getting out dragged
The way I figure I can spend $300 on a carb and $200 on a pipe to have maybe 3 more horses or I can spend an extra $100 and have 25
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
dannygraves wrote:SO I take it those 2 flat billers taht worked both of us really got you upset...
I think you should get the bigger carb setup squared away first. Plus I think a higher revving pipe would help too.
I dont like getting out dragged
The way I figure I can spend $300 on a carb and $200 on a pipe to have maybe 3 more horses or I can spend an extra $100 and have 25
Yeah, I was kinda thinking the same thing in the other thread, but I feel like your motor could do so much better with a better in and out setup. Plus I think going to a 41mm carb and a proper pipe would get you more than 3hp just because it would be working WITH your porting work, right now it seems like your carb and pipe are working against it (by this I mean where they want to make optimum power). I don't know, either way the bike rips and will rip even harder!
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
I believe I read someone's post about getting beat at either the drag hill at Dunmont or Glamis, right. I think I would look at it more like Danny Graves is talking about but I will put a twist on it from what I said before. If you are just building a drag bike for sand hill racing and you don't really want to hassle with stuff, don't get the NOS kit. For the Hill Climber competitions, I can see why they use it. I know the hills are big but you go up one time, then you are done until you next run. You go back to the pits, you take the old bottle out, warm up the new bottle to make sure the pressure is up, push it up the the box and give it hell. To do good at the drag hill, expeically where your at the hills are long and you need top speed. Unless you are going to extend your swing arm (looks like your's is stock in the pictures) you won't be able to hit the NOS on take off so you can't gear it high because your front end will be pointing to the sky. If you gear regular to take off, about mid hill when the nitrous hits hold on because the front will lift at about 60 mph. So either way, I would want a longer swingarm. Your 2 lb bottle of NOS will last you about 1/2 dozen runs up comp hill or olds hill. Make sure you buy an extra 2 lb bottle. (not cheap) How ported is your dune/drag motor? If it already has some pretty agressive numbers, I bet you would be suprised how much a good high revving pipe/ 44 minimum but I would go 48 mm Lectron on alky would bump your power levels to. Some will argue but the alky alone will bump you by 10%-15% and bump your torque up quite a bit because you can run higher compression with alky. I bet the carb alone is worth at least 5 HP so you are getting close to your 20 HP and you won't have the hassles. I have had buddies have jetting problems through out the day on both fuels but worse on NOS than alky because alky doesn't seem to run bad being rich vs NOS. Just make sure on both fuels you are richer than leaner or things go boom fast.
I'm not talking you in/out of anything but after researching all of this (I hate tinkering once I'm out riding) that's why I'm still running gas. Hey, a higher reving pipe plus a 44 mm lectron would be a very good upgrade to you current pipe and carb. I have a friend that drag races 300 ft sand drags with quads and picked up a tenth of a second by just switching from a 40 to a 44 mm carb. You know how hard it is to pick up a tenth.
Sorry I'm long winded, hard to get my point across I guess
LOVEMYCR500 wrote:
Sorry I'm long winded, hard to get my point across I guess
Don't say sorry I find your posts very informative, its nice to have another opinion.
I really dont want to go alky as that would make the bike useless on trails, as it is now its still very ridable in the desert here. Thats one of the big pluses I see with the N02, I can fill the bottle for the sand weekends then pull it off to go ride with me dad
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
LOVEMYCR500 wrote:
Sorry I'm long winded, hard to get my point across I guess
Don't say sorry I find your posts very informative, its nice to have another opinion.
I really dont want to go alky as that would make the bike useless on trails, as it is now its still very ridable in the desert here. Thats one of the big pluses I see with the N02, I can fill the bottle for the sand weekends then pull it off to go ride with me dad
I thought thats what the AF was for!! Just go all out on the steelie, extend the swing arm, a billion paddles, huge carb, drag pipe, no2, etc etc...then keep the af trail friendly.
I've been thinking about doing a conversion like Bob's gen4 X or even buying a newer thumper with a headlight, elec start, etc. and making my Gen1 into a dunes monster. My gen-1 is already getting really hard to handle on the ST style trails with all the work I've done on it.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
I'm with you on that one. One thing I found out long ago, it's about impossible to have one bike that does everything well. You almost need two bikes to accomplish your goals. One for Glamis to drag race, one all purpose. This will be hard to believe but it will save you money in the long run. Once you get the drag racing bug and need for more power, watch out.
Don't put Alky down. My buddy has run gas in the day, then switched carbs and run alky at night, it's a easy way to get big power, way more than you can handle on a dirt bike.
Ported&Polished wrote:Don't put Alky down. My buddy has run gas in the day, then switched carbs and run alky at night, it's a easy way to get big power, way more than you can handle on a dirt bike.
I aint putting it down I just dont like spending time wrenching
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
The way I figure I can spend $300 on a carb and $200 on a pipe to have maybe 3 more horses or I can spend an extra $100 and have 25
better think of a good game plan son . wont be long before the extended '00 is back together kicking ass and taking names. drag ported, alky and drag pipe . which reminds me the motor has been gone 1 month, should be about done or getting close
this is alittle off the subject but for a dune hill drag racer, what is the average extended length do most of you run on your swingarm? I would assume it's mainly to launch and keep the front end down. Is 3-4" enough or is it more like 6"?