87 jetting, I'm I on track?

Disturbed · Post by **Disturbed** » July 26th, 2009, 3:57 pm

Bike seemed waaay rich down low. Yes, you can crack the throttle to start cold.

I found:

165 main.

58 Pilot

Needle clip 1 up from bottom

Much searching here leads me to believe:

170 Main is safer.

58 is ok? [or should I go down a bit?]

Move clip to 2nd down from top.

I'm on board with the air screw and get a fast idle about 1.5 out. The thing I have no experience with is the twist choke adjustment. Where do I start?

I'm about 500 above sea level riding mx so I don't spent a ton of time on the main but need a much cleaner bottom..

927 40:1

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 26th, 2009, 9:39 pm

Pilot stops effecting mixture over about 1/8 throttle. Sounds like you should leave it where its at if the air screw is at 1.5 turns. Focus on the needle (which runs off the main). Move it one clip leaner at a time and run it for at least a few laps to make sure the motor is up to proper temp.

If the bike will start cold with no choke its to rich on the pilot.

Im guessing its a PJ carb since you talk about choke knob adjustment. That only adjust idle SPEED. Loosen it and the idle increase, tighten it in to lower speed. Keep in mind pilot tune will effect idle speed. Over rich motor will require a higher idle speed to sustain idle.

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 27th, 2009, 1:01 am

Sounds about right for a stock cylinder. These motors seem to take a lot of main without blubbering. So a 170 wouldn't hurt.

Faster idle on the chock knob is counter clockwise.

You could try turn the mix screw a 1/4 turn out at a time, try it to maybe 3 turns out, anything past 2 turns, ~ should get a smaller pilot.

Disturbed · Post by **Disturbed** » July 27th, 2009, 7:07 am

Thanks.

Where do I want the choke knob set when I adjust the air screw?

I was checking pilot size by adjusting out from full in till I got a fast idle. It's over 1 and less then 2 but how does choke knob position effect that?

FWIW: I ordered a slightly fatter [2.72] needle in any event.

[PJ carb, FMF pipe and a spark arrester on it now.]

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 27th, 2009, 5:43 pm

Disturbed wrote: Thanks.

Where do I want the choke knob set when I adjust the air screw?

If you find out please let us know...

Too my knowledge there is NOT a "published spec" for the choke knob adjustment. But I could be completely wrong, even tho that has never happened before...

Disturbed wrote: I was checking pilot size by adjusting out from full in till I got a fast idle.

Define "fast idle"...

Disturbed wrote:It's over 1 and less then 2 but how does choke knob position effect that?

Havnt looked at a PJ in a while, but my understanding is the choke adjustment is a metered air bypass of the slide. This is diferent from a PWK which the idle screw literally raises and lowers the slide. By allowing air to bypass the venturi, this would have a leaning effect. Which explains why a fat low end requires quite an choke knob increase to keep idling...

Disturbed wrote:[PJ carb, FMF pipe and a spark arrester on it now.]

PWK 39.5 FMF Gnarly, "Q" spark arrested here...

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 27th, 2009, 6:19 pm

Disturbed wrote:Thanks.

Where do I want the choke knob set when I adjust the air screw?

I was checking pilot size by adjusting out from full in till I got a fast idle. It's over 1 and less then 2 but how does choke knob position effect that?

FWIW: I ordered a slightly fatter [2.72] needle in any event.

[PJ carb, FMF pipe and a spark arrester on it now.]

Ya there's no spec for that, some have said its about 8 full turns out from bottoming or about 1/8" of shank bt the knob and ...the rubber ?

If your getting good idle bt 1~2 turns out the pilot is good. So adjust your idle from there.

I don't know how a 2.72 translates to the needle size. Ya I've seen it on the chart before but mostly we go by like 1468 or/ which is the same as a CGJ.

Anyway, I can't remember which it is, when I go from 3000' to 1600 or the other usually I rasie the idle by one or two clicks on the Chock/Idle knob. But I have to run the bike fairly hard / hard for me anyway, to see how she's idling. Its just part of my practice the weekend before race day.

Cause stalling it during a moto costs 20~30 seconds and really sucks.

alexh · Post by **alexh** » July 29th, 2009, 8:43 pm

This is directly from my '85-'89 Honda Service Manual on page 4-5 under the heading "Minor Carburetor Adjustment":

"For a stable idle speed, turn the choke/idle speed knob '85: 4 turns/AFTER '85: 6 turns, (24 clicks) counterclockwise from the fully seated position"

I only know this because I was having so many problems with getting reliable cold starting on my PJ carb that I tried setting everything to a factory setting to see where the problem was.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 29th, 2009, 8:52 pm

Anyone have info on PWK apps in KX500's?

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 29th, 2009, 9:26 pm

Assuming apps you mean jetting. My friends 2000 has the same jets as a PJ except the pilot is a 58 and even at that he liked the 55.

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » July 29th, 2009, 9:39 pm

from what i read it uses the standard 39 pwk. im not sure what slide they use though.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 29th, 2009, 11:21 pm

By apps I meant does anyone have a KX500 manual that shows basic settings for the stock PWK (39.5mm), just curious how that carb was setup on a KX. I got a JD Jet kit (for the custom needles) to try on the hundy. Its designed for the PJ but the needles should be about the same. I have a message in to Mr. JD to see if he thinks the PJ cr500 needles or the PWK kx500 would be better for my setup. Im curious how the motor is going to respond to the mutli taper dyno tuned needles over the DGN.

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » July 30th, 2009, 2:01 pm

M.F.D.B. wrote:By apps I meant does anyone have a KX500 manual that shows basic settings for the stock PWK (39.5mm), just curious how that carb was setup on a KX. I got a JD Jet kit (for the custom needles) to try on the hundy. Its designed for the PJ but the needles should be about the same. I have a message in to Mr. JD to see if he thinks the PJ cr500 needles or the PWK kx500 would be better for my setup. Im curious how the motor is going to respond to the mutli taper dyno tuned needles over the DGN.

keihin made a special carb just for kawasaki ? not sure where people keep getting this 39.5 mumbo jumbo. kxriders.com has the tech sheets for '96-'04 kx500, it says 39 pwk

. call it a 39.5 if you want.
hell call it a 39.5673456 if you want. just saying

oh and incase anyone still is unsure, YES the KX500 is a pile of shit

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 30th, 2009, 5:43 pm

LOL

JD said the multi taper needles will work fine with the PWK 39.56789 now I just need the dune season to start so I can test them out!

CR500R7 · Post by **CR500R7** » July 30th, 2009, 11:03 pm

KX500 a POS

I thought they were a good bike.
They were made longer than the CR500.
So what was bad about them.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 31st, 2009, 7:49 am

CR500R7 wrote: KX500 a POS
So what was bad about them.

The "KX" part. LOL They were made until 2006 I think, but like the CR, they were almost completely unchanged since the early 90's?

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » July 31st, 2009, 10:11 am

CR500R7 wrote: KX500 a POS
I thought they were a good bike.
They were made longer than the CR500.
So what was bad about them.

you have a secret love with kawasuki ?

heres your new home

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php

Bean · Post by **Bean** » July 31st, 2009, 10:47 am

100hp honda wrote:
CR500R7 wrote: KX500 a POS
I thought they were a good bike.
They were made longer than the CR500.
So what was bad about them.

you have a secret love with kawasuki ?

heres your new home

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php

the only green thing i like to see is the grass flying from the back end of my bike

Disturbed · Post by **Disturbed** » July 31st, 2009, 11:07 am

Man, that's one ugly color green they have on that site.

Nice KX/Af conversion on one of the threads in the AF section though.......

I owned a KX

once.

I crashed so hard on the damm thing I burst a blood vessel in my brain.

Then

I bought a Honda.

Bean · Post by **Bean** » July 31st, 2009, 11:28 am

the crash must have knocked some sense into you
i have only ever owned HONDA'S
never stray from a good thing be it bikes or women

Disturbed · Post by **Disturbed** » July 31st, 2009, 12:10 pm

If the truth be known, I never even owned a rice burner till the late 80's. Maicos, Huskys and Bultaco were the way I rolled.

In fact, I still have never gotten use to right foot braking........just don't seem natural after growing up breaking on the left.

CR500R7 · Post by **CR500R7** » July 31st, 2009, 4:08 pm

No, never owned a Kawasaki.
Just assumed they must of been almost as good as a CR500.
For them to be produced as long as or longer than the CR500, I thought they were as competitive and well liked.
Well I must of thought wrong.
I have only owned a Honda.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » July 31st, 2009, 4:58 pm

CR500R7 wrote:Just assumed they must of been almost as good as a CR500.

If you like power valves and pipe burns...

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » July 31st, 2009, 5:07 pm

they were a good bike, a damn good bike...............................compared to a yz490

CR500R7 · Post by **CR500R7** » July 31st, 2009, 5:08 pm

No I actually hate the idea of unnessary bullsh on a motorcycle, like power valves and water cooling.

Power valves I can avoid, the water cooling I don't have much choice do I.

I am glad Honda never put a power valve on the 500.

BannedCR500Riders.com

87 jetting, I'm I on track?

87 jetting, I'm I on track?