search help and,
search help and,
I searched " shine frame " and got 675 matches. What am I doing wrong?
Also any input is good also. I am NOT looking for extra bling, just a very clean new look
Also any input is good also. I am NOT looking for extra bling, just a very clean new look
- xtremeslide
- Posts: 766
- Joined: December 14th, 2008, 10:25 am
- Location: Mediterranean coast
- redrocket190
- Posts: 1229
- Joined: September 17th, 2007, 9:07 pm
- Location: San Clemente, CA
...Google search
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=polishin ... aV-kzfDWBk
...selection of top results.
http://www.finishing.com/109/17.shtml
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 23286.html
http://finishingtouch7.com/How_to_polis ... rame.shtml
http://www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/polishing.html
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=polishin ... aV-kzfDWBk
...selection of top results.
http://www.finishing.com/109/17.shtml
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 23286.html
http://finishingtouch7.com/How_to_polis ... rame.shtml
http://www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/polishing.html
Michael Stiles
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
- redrocket190
- Posts: 1229
- Joined: September 17th, 2007, 9:07 pm
- Location: San Clemente, CA
Results
Well I have learned lots. First, what YOU need to know, my goal is a factory new look, not a polished bling look. For the first time I used a rotary tool (Dremel). WOW, that thing can be adictive. I had to keep telling myself "new, not bling". The best thing about the Dremel is getting in to tough places. (like welds).
So, starting with K.I.S.S., Scotchbrite and Simple Green work GREAT.
Scotchbrite is abrasive, and with S.G. you can do mild polishing.
The next level FOR ME was a medium steel wool, followed by a fine steel wool. I used them wet with the same S.G. This was to take out small, slight scratches & dings.
Then, I had two 4" grooves on the spars. I started with the mildest wet/dry sandpaper I had, 320, It was very slow on the grooves, so I went to 220, then 150. The Idea was to take the very minimum off of the thin spars. I tried a sanding block, but felt my finger let me stay right on the groove. The 150 did the job, then I went in reverse all the way back to scotchbrite.
Maybe the best tool I found is a Nyalox brush. They are "Abrasive Impregnated" nylon bristle brushes in 3 grits. I used the end brush on a cordless drill. The Fine grit IS abrasive (leaves marks) but it did a fantastic job on the waffle-like recesses on the AF frame.
The next, makes me wonder. I used it last, once, because it SCARES me.
Hydrofluoric, Phosphoric and Sulfuric Acid. It is called "Etching Mag Cleaner" by Eagle One. I got it at Carquest. The warnings are serious. The guy who sold it to me said to make SURE I didn't breath it.
On the upside, so far it seems like it produces the best results.
I polished the link arm with a carbon steel brush, it worked great, but after a couple days it is turning grey. I sprayed the link with mag cleaner ( 30 seconds & rinse), and the next day it still looks GREAT. Natural aluminum color & bright. I forgot, I did use scotchbrite with the mag cleaner, where needed. (with rubber gloves & EYE PROTECTION of course).
I just wonder, are there any long term effects of useing the acids?
So, starting with K.I.S.S., Scotchbrite and Simple Green work GREAT.
Scotchbrite is abrasive, and with S.G. you can do mild polishing.
The next level FOR ME was a medium steel wool, followed by a fine steel wool. I used them wet with the same S.G. This was to take out small, slight scratches & dings.
Then, I had two 4" grooves on the spars. I started with the mildest wet/dry sandpaper I had, 320, It was very slow on the grooves, so I went to 220, then 150. The Idea was to take the very minimum off of the thin spars. I tried a sanding block, but felt my finger let me stay right on the groove. The 150 did the job, then I went in reverse all the way back to scotchbrite.
Maybe the best tool I found is a Nyalox brush. They are "Abrasive Impregnated" nylon bristle brushes in 3 grits. I used the end brush on a cordless drill. The Fine grit IS abrasive (leaves marks) but it did a fantastic job on the waffle-like recesses on the AF frame.
The next, makes me wonder. I used it last, once, because it SCARES me.
Hydrofluoric, Phosphoric and Sulfuric Acid. It is called "Etching Mag Cleaner" by Eagle One. I got it at Carquest. The warnings are serious. The guy who sold it to me said to make SURE I didn't breath it.
On the upside, so far it seems like it produces the best results.
I polished the link arm with a carbon steel brush, it worked great, but after a couple days it is turning grey. I sprayed the link with mag cleaner ( 30 seconds & rinse), and the next day it still looks GREAT. Natural aluminum color & bright. I forgot, I did use scotchbrite with the mag cleaner, where needed. (with rubber gloves & EYE PROTECTION of course).
I just wonder, are there any long term effects of useing the acids?
Last edited by rickyrcf on May 1st, 2009, 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
- eyesky2002
- Posts: 492
- Joined: October 30th, 2007, 8:31 am
- Location: SW Iowa
- Contact:
This link is great, what I used to polish my stuff... YOU NEED THE BOOZE!!!redrocket190 wrote:http://forum.caswellplating.com/metal-p ... ssion.html
"When your riding your living... Everything else is just waiting!"
MXMotoworx.com
2003 Honda CR500AF
MXMotoworx.com
2003 Honda CR500AF
- Roostius_Maximus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4641
- Joined: November 16th, 2007, 3:24 pm
- Location: Mt Nebo, Manitoba, Canada
- Contact:
Nick came by with that stuff, sprayed a wheel in the showroom, said it did nothing and left, that stuff bitched that wheel, it was rough and blistery looking so we didnt take it off to see what would happen, a week later it was ugly as hell and white looking like old corroded alluminum
http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd