There isn't an issue with the steel drives damaging the basket and hub. This is the problem:Dakota Boy wrote:ANY concerns over steel plates chewing up the inner and outer clutch baskets?
The aluminum fiber plates are a lot easier on the basket's tangs. Things stay tighter for longer.MICK wrote:...but Barnett still uses steel as a base meterial for their fiber plates....Hinson's fibers use an aluminum base plate.
I can't tell you. It hasn't been long enough. So far everything feels like OEM Honda stuff. Which IMO is perfectJBaze wrote:How well do the fiber plates hold up Mick? I have never used them, but am always willing to try something new if it is cost effective.
new alum is 18 grams, steel is 68 grams!100hp honda wrote:anybody weighed aluminum plates vs steels ?
They were also the first ones in space. First dog in space, too:britincali wrote:Off topic but did you know that the russians used cork instead of ceramic tile on the bottom of their version of the shuttle.
downhoofarted wrote:They were also the first ones in space. First dog in space, too:britincali wrote:Off topic but did you know that the russians used cork instead of ceramic tile on the bottom of their version of the shuttle.
Now, back on topic....when installing the aluminum clutch plates, is the rounded side in or out (of the teeth) ? I forget...
On the CR500 I don't suspect it would make much difference by themselves. I began looking for these kind of drive plates for my AF after I began using a set of Hyperplates for my RC51. Of course the RC is dealing with a lot more weight. And the results brought a smile once the OEM steel drives were replaced.britincali wrote:I can honestly say I noticed no difference between steel and the alloy plates aside from the clean oil
Dont forget the clutch spins a LOT slower than the flywheel.
I don't really understand that...X2JBaze wrote:Can you honestly feel a difference in the way the engine performs or the way the bike handles in regards to a few ounces or even a pound of weight added or removed from the engine except for adding or removing flywheel weight? I can't. The only noticable difference I can tell is going from a spark arrestor to a closed course silencer. The throttle response is a lot crisper with a racing silencer. Don't get me wrong, I not trying to sound like a smart ass, I am really curious if you can tell an honest difference.
A few ounces or even a pound? I sure as hell can't...JBaze wrote:Can you honestly feel a difference in the way the engine performs or the way the bike handles in regards to a few ounces or even a pound of weight added or removed from the engine except for adding or removing flywheel weight? I can't. The only noticable difference I can tell is going from a spark arrestor to a closed course silencer. The throttle response is a lot crisper with a racing silencer. Don't get me wrong, I not trying to sound like a smart ass, I am really curious if you can tell an honest difference.
. and i understand the point of not wanting the oil contaminated, and i have seen how it contaminates the oil, but ive torn down 2 motors that were nearly 10 years old, both used aluminum plates probly their whole life, and i seen absolutely no sign of any increased wear on any bearings, seals, gears or shafts. this is just my observations100hp I think if you used aluminum plates and changed the oil often there isn't any real disadvantage. My opinion is that most riders don't change their oil often enough and should probably use steel plates because of this. I also feel the weight difference in the clutch alone isn't as noticable because it doesn't turn at the same speed as the crank. A 16oz flywheel weight has a larger impact than 40oz of steel clutch plates. In regards to clutch kits alone I don't think there is a real weight advantage one way or the other. But if a guy changes his oil as often as I do and goes through pains taking efforts to reduce weight and parasitic drag it would be like shooting myself in the foot to run steel clutch plates...100hp honda wrote:stock clutch is aproximatly 14 oz ? steel clutch is aproximatly 40 oz ?.... is that with steel fiber plates also ? seems to me like alot of weight but i havent tried a full steel clutch so i cant say the seat of the pants feel. adding 26 oz to a 350 chevy would be miniscule, but in this small of a engine i cant see how you wouldnt notice that
MICK wrote:100hp I think if you used aluminum plates and changed the oil often there isn't any real disadvantage. My opinion is that most riders don't change their oil often enough and should probably use steel plates because of this. I also feel the weight difference in the clutch alone isn't as noticable because it doesn't turn at the same speed as the crank. A 16oz flywheel weight has a larger impact than 40oz of steel clutch plates. In regards to clutch kits alone I don't think there is a real weight advantage one way or the other. But if a guy chances his oil as often as I do and goes through pains taking efforts to reduce weight and parasitic drag it would be like shooting myself in the foot to run steel clutch plates...100hp honda wrote:stock clutch is aproximatly 14 oz ? steel clutch is aproximatly 40 oz ?.... is that with steel fiber plates also ? seems to me like alot of weight but i havent tried a full steel clutch so i cant say the seat of the pants feel. adding 26 oz to a 350 chevy would be miniscule, but in this small of a engine i cant see how you wouldnt notice that
