uuuuhhhmmmm, X2... I thinkShanMan wrote:the down side is that you removed a significant portion of the "footprint" of the weld....also called contact patch or surface area. In the world of welding, particularly welds put into shear, surface area is a key component. Additionally, the reason the factory weld is curved is to give the weld miltiple directions to resist said shearing loads. if you ground down the Y section so that the weld is now only going to be straight across, I would strongly suggest you make sure the Y section and the frame downtub e are butted together along a physical shoulder, and also that you consider putting a backing plate style brace over the joint to reenforce it. Did you not see Iggy's frame failure? The frame sees a ton of compressive force at that location if you case a jump, and compression along those members equate to almost pure shear on the weld.

yeah, thats why on mine I cut along the oem weld and left everything else the same. the rad mounts are overkill anyway, and honestly if I were give the choice of having a rad giggle until I got back to camp or a craddle split open, I think I would sacrifice the rad.
also, I kept the down tube as long as possible to keep as much overlap between the Y and down tube as possible to reduce the stress on the weld for side loads and vibes. this way all the weld is doing is keeping it from pulling off, but is not the one point taking a beating form all sides.