How NOT to remove your flywheel

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Nate
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Post by Nate »

It has. I can see inside where it has penetrated! I would get a pic but it will be dark and you wont be able to see it.

+ where you can see the start from the side it doesn't have much penetration because it wasnt heated enough. further down i can assure you it has penetrated.
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teemtrubble
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Post by teemtrubble »

Sorry bro but, that's a cold weld with zero penetration send it to someone who can weld but, what do I know....
Mike

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(Gen 3 125+CR500 motor)
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Nate
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Post by Nate »

Well maybe i need a bigger welder.
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dannygraves
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Post by dannygraves »

give it more heat :cool: isn't that the solution to everything? :lol: The way I have mine setup right now I have to avoid being on the edges since they will melt off :lol: thats how I know I'm hitting it with enough heat.
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Nate
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Post by Nate »

Well my set up isn't ideal for welding aluminum. So for what i did i think i did quite well.
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dannygraves
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Post by dannygraves »

ya, neither is mine, I'm rollin' with a $150 harbor freight MIG and honestly I can't get a bead that looks as good as what you have in the pic while having enough heat to penetrate and enough wire to keep up. With the cheapy equipment, it is either strong or looks good, but rarely both. Hopefully a tig welder will be in my near future. :cool:
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Nate
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Post by Nate »

Yeah. I done a Tbar with the box section and grinded the welds down and i could break the weld with a hammer. I guess it hasn't got the Best penetration but certainly not the worst.
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Post by "SOLID Bro!!" »

Crank up the heat.

If possible weld it with Helium I mix my gas with a Y in the lines after the

regulators. My guess is that the helium burns 2X's hotter than Argon.

Anything over .120 thick The helium comes into play. Screw those mini migs

That's what the whole problem is. 220 or go home. The mini migs were made

for autobody guys 16ga or .060 thick tin shit. You can weld thicker but try

pre-heating your material first that will help with the cold arc start.

your weld will burn better and look flatter.
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MrDude_1
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Post by MrDude_1 »

I was going to say to turn up the heat.. but everyone already said it 5 times before me.

I'll say this though.. dont take it personally, im pretty sure everyone here is not saying it as a putdown, or to insult you in anyway.. the comments like "you need to turn up the heat" and "magnets on the back of the metal dont effect welding" are just honest advice ment to help.. a bit blunt and brutal in delivery, but honest advice just the same.

out of curiosity, try cranking up your welder and try to blow a hole in the metal.. i have friends with cheap welders, on some of them you can turn the tap up to maximum, and its still not even enough heat to blow through steel unless you try....

on the flip side i have a 220V Lincoln MIG, and i rarely have to turn it even halfway up.. :lol: overkill is better then under...
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teemtrubble
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Post by teemtrubble »

I've said it a thousand times 25% helium and is your life worth a $150.00 welder or someone elses? Step up to a good Tig my reccomendation "Dynasty" with my 700 I can tear a beer can in half and weld it back together or big stuff really big stuff but, WTF do I know
Mike

teem trubble works CR500
(Gen 3 125+CR500 motor)
If I wanted a Yamaha I would have bought a piano!
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Post by "SOLID Bro!!" »

Break it down what the hell did you just say?
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dannygraves
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Post by dannygraves »

yeah dude, we all mean well with ouyr comments. I got lucky and got some good advise from a couple people, TTM Mike specifically, and learned through some trial and error. we are all just sharing some knowledge to help you not have parts falling off on the trails! :wink:

Mike, I also found a deal on a syncrowave 250, might go look at it after work... just need to scrape togather some cash first :wink:
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'05 klx110 --SOLD--
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Post by "SOLID Bro!!" »

Syncrowave 250 is what I have. it's a great welder. Make sure it's water cooled. thats a must.
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dannygraves
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Post by dannygraves »

yup, it comes with the cooler for $1500 :cool:
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Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
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dannygraves
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Post by dannygraves »

but there is also a dynasty 200 for $1900 locally.... decisions...decisions!
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
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Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
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Nate
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Post by Nate »

Yeah i don't take it as an insult. Well i did the whole flywheel issue But Im open to suggestions.
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Post by "SOLID Bro!!" »

My stuff is all miller.

9 miller matics 250 250x 251 ect.

2 dual feed miller power stations

1 syncrowave

1 miller powerstation with tig set up for steel and stainless.

And 1 lincoln 2 cell robotic mig welder ( only came with lincoln )

Oh yeah! 1 ESAB plasma cutter to remove fly wheels.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

MrDude_1 wrote:
I'll say this though.. dont take it personally, im pretty sure everyone here is not saying it as a putdown, or to insult you in anyway.. the comments like "you need to turn up the heat" and "magnets on the back of the metal dont effect welding" are just honest advice ment to help.. a bit blunt and brutal in delivery, but honest advice just the same.
Yup....

:wink:
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Post by south central hoon »

teemtrubble wrote:I've said it a thousand times 25% helium and is your life worth a $150.00 welder or someone elses? Step up to a good Tig my reccomendation "Dynasty" with my 700 I can tear a beer can in half and weld it back together or big stuff really big stuff but, WTF do I know
photos mike? he was kind enough to post his.
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