I Just Started My Gen 2 AF Build from 2001 CR 250

[JBaze]

I just started my build, and have taken some pictures but I don't know how to post them on here. Also if some one is doing the same or what ever, I have not cut the frame yet, so if you want pics or measurements before I do, let me know and I will get them I have only ground off the forward motor mounts and installed the engine for mock up. Help to post pictures though would be great thanks, Jason. Also if it matters, I am using a 1990 CR500 engine. And will very soon have a very good running 01 CR 250 engine for sale with all eelectrics and exhaust. ( Factory exhaust) Not to mention a Beautiful 1996 500 Roller with Racetech Boingers and Eibach Spring, I put it back together, but I believe it said 43/90 Racetech The spring is grey. Again thanks to all on this forum not just for the tech help but also for the laughs. This IS THE BEST CR 500 site on the web hands down.

[JBaze]

I am going to try to load some pictures so here goes! These first few are without modifying the frame at all yet.

IMG]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x294 ... igs154.jpg[/IMG]



The next pictures are after I removed the front engine mounts.







Here is the 96 roller with the engine in it still!

[hoofarted]

Looks good!

Keep us updated with your progess!! I await more pics!

[dannygraves]

Looks good!

Keep us updated with your progess!! I await more pics!

when are you gonna start on your gen-2...dickhead!
I'm almost finished with my gen-4, hell, I'll have a 3rd a/f by the time you do yours!

[dannygraves]

JBaze, Very nice!

[JBaze]

Thanks guys. I will be working the frame some more today, as soon as I get some more I'll post pics.

[JBaze]

Here are a few pics of todays progress. And a couple of my shop it's awesome! I'll probably cut the frame tommorow. I'm not in a great rush because of waiting for the parts to convert my little welder to tackle this job.

[JBaze]

I was going to say too, that I went to my local industrial store and got myself one of those 5" cut off wheels for the small grinder, and I found that to work alot better than a standard wheel. It's alot easier to manuver inside of the frame and is 10 times as fast. Before I started this, I didn't realize that those forward motor mounts were incorperated into the frame as heavily as they were. My plan is to cut the lower frame rails just in front of the middle engine mount and move the rails ahead about and inch. I was able to grind off the weld on the down tube and can see the protruding tube that extends from the Y section up the down tube. I am going to raise the Y section about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to clear the exhaust and then weld it back and hopefully make it look as stock as I can. Another thing that I would say to do also is save all the peices that you remove from the frame. Like the exhaust mounts and things like that just because they already have threaded hole and such. I saw some pictures when researching this, like people cutting away the frame to make room for the water pump and front ngine mounts, to me that is not a very smart approach to this just my opinion. When I cut the lower frame I think I will cut at a steep angle though to allow more area to weld to when I extend those out. Thanks Shanman, I will be purchasing those mounts from you very soon. Just eyeballing everything the countershaft sprocket looks to be very well aligned where the engine sits so we'll see as we get a little furhter down the road. I don't mean to write a story, I just get excited the more I get into working on this.

[AlisoBob]

A word to the wise.... Those abrasive "Cut-Off" wheels impregnate the aluminum with debris, that contaminates the weld when reassembling.

If you insist on using these, use a file to clean up the edges, and remove this contamination.

[JBaze]

I was going to clean up all of the parts before reassembly, but I wasn't aware of the debris getting into the aluminium. If I "clean" the parts with a fine sanding disc would that have the same affect? Or would I be better off with something else? I haven't messed with aluminium alot, I'm used to steel, and just dial up the ln-25 and blow everything out. But I want to make sure this goes good you know. Thanks, Jason.

[ShanMan]

your on the right track, but heed Bob's advice, because he is correct. Just go back and try to file as much as you can to a bright, raw finish, but keep your surfaces nice and smooth. You will be able to go back later and flapper-wheel and scotchbrite the whole thing to look OEM clean.

BTW: those mounts are ready when you are! No hurry....and no worries.

[AlisoBob]

Sawzall's and files are your best friends when working with Aroonimumum....

[dannygraves]

sawzall actually cuts AL faster than a wheel... my dad clued me into something about aluminum... almost imediately its forms a bit of a skin of aluminum oxide, which is also what sand paper is made out of, its actually harder than steel, plus the aluminum is soft stuff and will load up your grinding wheels. For that reason he said an abrasive cutting is difficult and a saw blade action will work better. With a fresh sawzall blade (I get them from work for free, so I'm always using a fresh one) cuts through that down tube in probably 30 second or less, where an abrasive disc will work on it for a while and the disc would be noticeably smaller in diameter. plus the sawzall gets cleaner looking cuts.

[JBaze]

I was planning on using my sawsall to cut the lower frame rails, but I used the cut off wheel to take the actual weld off of the down tube to seperate the pieces that were welded together, rather than just saw all the way through it. When I did that it looks like there is a smaller square tube coming upwards out of the Y piece and extending upwards into the down tube, is that right or am I Just seeing something else? But for the lower tubes, I have a super fine/ soft metal blade for my sawsall, that should be fine wouldn't it? Thanks guys, Jason.

[JBaze]

I have seen alot of pictures of these bikes during the build, and have read where people have moved the Y up anywhere from 1/4" to 1 1/2". From what I have seen on my bike, I am thinking only moving it up enough to get my exhaust flange on with allen head bolts, is there any reason to move it up higher than this?

I think I am only going to go up enough to clear the exhaust, then by my measurements, I should have enough room for the radiators and everything else. I am going first thing tommorow and am going to get a good set of bastards, (files) to clean the surfaces before welding. I'm not some perfectionist by any means, but I do like to only have to do things once, and rather than having to get rid of ferocity holes I will gladly listen to you guys and file off the surfaces to be welded, again thanks for every thing, Jason.

[AlisoBob]

Make sure you leave room for the upper springs as well.....

[JBaze]

This morning I cut the frame craddle out, and will be making adjustments to the down tube. Just thought I'd post a couple more pictures.

[JBaze]

I worked the frame some more and filed down the weld on the Y section. Bob, good thing you mentioned the exhaust springs, because I did wind up having to go a little higher than I though. But these pictures are of the Y with and without the springs for referance.


I dont know if I haven't arrived there yet or what, but so far this is really not nearly as daunting of a job as I thought it was going to be, work or money wise. aside from the bikes, I have $7.00 into this, and am ready to start welding. Then I will buy the mounts from Shanman, and be into this build a whole $70. pretty cool.

[aloha450x]

just curious but what year is the motor. you said the bike is a 96 but i thought the cases were silver 93 and up

[JBaze]

The engine is a 1990. The bike I took it from was totally clapped out. Then I bought an awesome 96 roller and put this motor in it for a very short time, then traded an old truck for my 01, then decided to do the af build. Jason.

[AlisoBob]

Bob, good thing you mentioned the exhaust springs, because I did wind up having to go a little higher than I thought

[JBaze]

Just got the frame back and am installing the engine. The air box boot looks to be about 1" or so lower than the carb. I have seen a few other threads about this, but for the Gen 2, can I take a boot from a steelie and use that, or do I have to get creative? I sure as hell am not going to use duct tape and bailing wire like that slow old guy was talking about! I will post pics in just a little bit, I'm not super thrilled with the welds, but they are strong and very solid. What to expect for $100 and a case of beer. Any thoughts on the air box issues though would be greatly appriciated.

[JBaze]

Here are the pictures. She won't win any beauty contests, but she's built to ride not for the show room.

[quantum500]

Picture quality isn't great but the welds don't look bad. So I have a question on the Gen 2 frames. This thread http://cr500riders.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1204661821/ says that all you have to do is remove and reweld the front motor mounts, throw jack in the cradle and stretch until it fits. Although I don't doubt that it works I'm not sure about how user friendly it turns out being. I see no pics of the clearance the pipe has. Anybody have experience with this method?

[JBaze]

Yeah the pics suck, I'll take more tomorow. I have heard of people stretching out the frame but with bad results from what I've heard. In my case, I simply cut the frame right in front of the lower mounts and then removed the weld at the Y piece, cut the down tube so as to give enough clearance for the exhaust then put little solid extenders inside the frame tubes and then weld solid.