daily driver?

[aloha450x]

anybody ever heard of 5hundy as a daily driver? 20 miles a day

[M.F.D.B.]

I wouldnt do it unless you get a cush drive and gear the crap outta it...

[Caseys500]

I will use mine as a daily driver once it is done. I am using a CBR wheel and I am saving the cush drive...gearing I am thinking 14-15 front 40-45 rear.

[Caseys500]

I think a lot of the newer KTM's have cush drives as well as being 20mm axles. That is a strong I think though!

[M.F.D.B.]

I will use mine as a daily driver once it is done. I am using a CBR wheel and I am saving the cush drive...gearing I am thinking 14-15 front 40-45 rear.

Theres a CBR wheel narrow enough??

[Caseys500]

The F2 wheel is a 4.5" rim and I am having the hub machined down to fit.
The rotor is the same and I need to get a 520 sprocket for it.

[M.F.D.B.]

The F2 wheel is a 4.5" rim and I am having the hub machined down to fit.
The rotor is the same and I need to get a 520 sprocket for it.

What about the axle size and the front wheel??

[Caseys500]

the axle size is the same too. Some people have done it with both the fron and rear wheels, I am just doing the rear and will put an enduro tire on my front. That way I will be set up for whatever without the hassle of changing the front wheel everytime I want to ride dirt or sand.

The front takes a lot more work and requires a different braking setup. so it would be too much of a pain to switch around. This will just be to get me from home to school and work..10-20 miles a day maybe on clear days that is...

[M.F.D.B.]

the axle size is the same too. Some people have done it with both the fron and rear wheels, I am just doing the rear and will put an enduro tire on my front. That way I will be set up for whatever without the hassle of changing the front wheel everytime I want to ride dirt or sand.

The front takes a lot more work and requires a different braking setup. so it would be too much of a pain to switch around. This will just be to get me from home to school and work..10-20 miles a day maybe on clear days that is...

Why bother with the rim?? Just get street legal knobs...

[Caseys500]

Because I can put a good street tire on this rim and get way better traction. Plus it will look pretty schnazzy!

[M.F.D.B.]

Because I can put a good street tire on this rim and get way better traction. Plus it will look pretty schnazzy!

Not very smart to put a better gripping tire on the BACK of a bike then the front. You will be in a turn and loose the front and face plant before you ever get any feedback from the rear...

[Caseys500]

Okay
#1-I'm not racing but will like having good acceleration.
#2-If street legal knobs are fine then why wouldnt an enduro tire be fine for the front?

[M.F.D.B.]

Okay
#1-I'm not racing but will like having good acceleration.
#2-If street legal knobs are fine then why wouldnt an enduro tire be fine for the front?

I dont understand...

#1 Racing or not you are planning on turning the bike right??
#2 If the enduro tire is "street legal" then its the same difference.

What im saying is, if you put a street tire on the rear and leave the front a KNOBBY (enduro, dual sport, WHATEVER) you are throwing the handling and ballance of the bike OUT THE WINDOW. Why increase the "acceleration" capability making the bike faster AND reducing its stopping ability?? I just dont think you are thinking this through enough. Have you ever riddin a street bike?? I ride my 500 around the the block all the time and I have never had any traction problems with a MX knobby on it, in STRAIGHT LINE. I can wheelie it any gear, ZERO tire spin. So unless you are trying to increase CORNERING why the hell would you need a street rear tire??

[Caseys500]

Okay
#1-I'm not racing but will like having good acceleration.
#2-If street legal knobs are fine then why wouldnt an enduro tire be fine for the front?

I dont understand...

#1 Racing or not you are planning on turning the bike right??
#2 If the enduro tire is "street legal" then its the same difference.

What im saying is, if you put a street tire on the rear and leave the front a KNOBBY (enduro, dual sport, WHATEVER) you are throwing the handling and ballance of the bike OUT THE WINDOW. Why increase the "acceleration" capability making the bike faster AND reducing its stopping ability?? I just dont think you are thinking this through enough. Have you ever riddin a street bike?? I ride my 500 around the the block all the time and I have never had any traction problems with a MX knobby on it, in STRAIGHT LINE. I can wheelie it any gear, ZERO tire spin. So unless you are trying to increase CORNERING why the hell would you need a street rear tire??

You're right...you dont understand...you're trying to say that a knobby tire is just as safe as a street tire and wondering why I am putting a street tire on it.

I have owned and ridden many street bikes, dont know why that question came out.

How is having a good street tire and a good enduro tire on a bike "reducing its stopping ability"? If anything it is making it much better!

"I ride my 500 around the the block all the time and I have never had any traction problems with a MX knobby on it, in STRAIGHT LINE." That is the dumbest statement I have ever heard! You must have been pushing it around the block.

SO...because my front tire will be a good enduro tire I wont be able to corner...I ought to just stick to non DOT knobbies because they never slip when cornering or in a STRAIGHT LINE.

I am setting my bike up to be the best handling bike it can be on the road, on the dirt and in the sand without having to switch the front wheel everytime I ride. Is the enduro tire the best on the road...no, is it the best in the dirt...no, is it the best in the sand...no. Is it alright for all 3, yes. me setting up this wheel this way is cheaper then buying a CR500 wheel and setting it up for enduro and my front wheel would be an enduro then too, so...what's the difference?

oh, that's right, there isnt.

[M.F.D.B.]

You're right...you dont understand...you're trying to say that a knobby tire is just as safe as a street tire and wondering why I am putting a street tire on it.

No im saying someone who puts a big fat back rim on to put a street bike tire on then leaving the stock front wheel on with an "enduro tire" is an idiot.

I have owned and ridden many street bikes, dont know why that question came out.

You obviously learned nothing from that vast experience...

How is having a good street tire and a good enduro tire on a bike "reducing its stopping ability"? If anything it is making it much better!

YEAH, thats it...Let me guess, you use your rear brake 90% and your front 10%??

"I ride my 500 around the the block all the time and I have never had any traction problems with a MX knobby on it, in STRAIGHT LINE." That is the dumbest statement I have ever heard! You must have been pushing it around the block.

WTF is that supposed to mean?? The only way I can get the tire to spin is to slam the gas mid corner, in a straight like with a regular old knobby, ZERO TIRE SPIN. Even my 450 is the same way, are you friggin Armor-allin your tires??

SO...because my front tire will be a good enduro tire I wont be able to corner...I ought to just stick to non DOT knobbies because they never slip when cornering or in a STRAIGHT LINE.

Did you actually READ anything I said?? BALLANCE. A smoothe street tire on a wide ass rim on the back and a big skinny 21" front wheel with ANY type of knobby on it is RETARDED. HELLO??

I am setting my bike up to be the best handling bike it can be on the road, on the dirt and in the sand without having to switch the front wheel everytime I ride.

No you are setting your bike up to be the WORST handling bike ever to hit the STREET. Put some DOT legal knobs on it and be DONE with it. Simple eh??

Is the enduro tire the best on the road...no, is it the best in the dirt...no, is it the best in the sand...no. Is it alright for all 3, yes. me setting up this wheel this way is cheaper then buying a CR500 wheel and setting it up for enduro and my front wheel would be an enduro then too, so...what's the difference?

Ok let me get this straight, you are saying buying an F2 wheel and having it MACHINED to fit, swapping rotors, etc. etc. is CHEAPER then buying a CR500 wheel?? HAHAHAHA Are you serious or are you fuggin with me??

oh, that's right, there isnt.

No difference between just putting on DOT knobs on your stock rims you have now as apposed to getting an F2 wheel and making it fit, then putting a street tire on it (fugging up the handling)?? You huff paint or something??

[M.F.D.B.]

Oops, I forgot one thing, its going to look retarded with miss matched rims...

[Caseys500]

Once again...I'm not racing...this is just to get me around town. I just like the fact that it will be better acceleration.

I use 80% front brake, 20% back brake...any other brain busters?

cbr600F2 wheel on ebay for $11.00 sprocket...$15.00 tire...$50 machine work $50. A CR500 wheel and putting an enduro tire on it would cost easily $75 more, then you have to worry about the used bearings and spokes on the dirt bike wheel being bad where as on the street wheel they last longer and are fine.

Now, tell me how my 80% braking with the front brake on an enduro tire is going to be so much worse with a 17" street tire in the back or an 18" enduro tire in the back. I didn't know a wider tire in the back would be so much less stable.

Engines do slow the bike down a lot too and that would be using the back street tire. but that is also worse then if it was an enduro tire.

I could put a 20" rim on the front which would be better but Im not going to put a 17" one on to be used all around.

OK, granted, having a cast wheel on the back with a spoked wheel on the front isn't the best scenario...but it will be just fine in getting me around...again, not racing.

33% riding on road, 33% off road, and 33% sand. The stock front wheel with a dual sport tire will be just fine. Did I say it is perfect for all three? No, but will work just fine for putting around town.

[Caseys500]

good thing you dont have to look at it.

[aloha450x]

here look at this. get 17's excells with tallon hubs. put avon disanti (sp) and problem solved. check them out. seriously.

[Caseys500]

If I had $1000 to blow on 33% of my riding...I might consider it.

[M.F.D.B.]

Once again...I'm not racing...this is just to get me around town. I just like the fact that it will be better acceleration..

You dont need to be "racing" to want to keep the bike well ballanced. I still dont see how you are going to get such better acceleration, and like you said you "arnt racing" so why the hell do you need such "better acceleration"?? You actually are going to LOOSE power to the ground from the heavier wheel and loose further handling to do higher unsprung weight and rotating mass.

cbr600F2 wheel on ebay for $11.00 sprocket...$15.00 tire...$50 machine work $50. A CR500 wheel and putting an enduro tire on it would cost easily $75 more, then you have to worry about the used bearings and spokes on the dirt bike wheel being bad where as on the street wheel they last longer and are fine..

$50 tire?? You buying used tires?? Any decent street tire is going to be over $100. Even a $50 tire (JUNK) makes your total around $130, how is that CHEAPER then just buying the same brand/make tire as your front for the rear??

Now, tell me how my 80% braking with the front brake on an enduro tire is going to be so much worse with a 17" street tire in the back or an 18" enduro tire in the back. I didn't know a wider tire in the back would be so much less stable..

STABLILITY is in referance to traction BALLANCE front to rear. The difference in BRAKING is minimal, the point I was making was braking between a street and a knobby is HUGE.

Engines do slow the bike down a lot too and that would be using the back street tire. but that is also worse then if it was an enduro tire..

You shouldnt be doing much engine breaking unless you can afford to do top ends on a regular basis...

I could put a 20" rim on the front which would be better but Im not going to put a 17" one on to be used all around..

I never recommended a 17" front for a "dual sport". But dont half ass a super moto setup by running the rear setup then cheesing out and running a 21" from wheel with a DOT knobby...

OK, granted, having a cast wheel on the back with a spoked wheel on the front isn't the best scenario...but it will be just fine in getting me around...again, not racing..

You are the only one who keeps bringing up the "racing" part. I am trying to help you with real world ADVICE from someone who has BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I have well over 100,000 miles of experience on so many types of street bikes I would have to start a new thread to list. Forget everything I have said to try and help you but remember these very basic WARNINGS.

#1 Vastly greater rear traction means you will loose the front end with little to NO warning. (hope you are very quick and skilled WHEN this happens). Racing or street means nothing, you will be braking and turning on a completely unpredictable surface (oils, dirt, gravel, pools of vomit, etc.) I personally would much rather have excessive FRONT traction and a bald shitty rear then the reverse.

#2 Front and rear BALLANCE includes braking power AND TRACTION. Upsetting either of those as much as you are going to do is DANGEROUS.

33% riding on road, 33% off road, and 33% sand. The stock front wheel with a dual sport tire will be just fine. Did I say it is perfect for all three? No, but will work just fine for putting around town.

You can simply and easily accomplish what you are supposedly "trying to do" by SIMPLY putting on a PAIR (front and rear) dual sport/DOT knobbies. If you think a dual sport tires is going to work "ok" in the sand you will be rudely awakened. You will need a paddle for the rear so ditch the 1/2 super moto idea, save all that cash, spend it on a pair of DOT knobs and a paddle and pocket the rest...

[aloha450x]

would the avons not cover all riding styles?

[Caseys500]

ok...so we figured out you cant do simple math. I bought a brand new take off tire from an 07 DRZ, $50. Good luck finding a good CR500 wheel for less than $130 plus at least another $70 for an enduro tire. making that route $200.

The heavier wheel actually puts more weight down low adding stability...tell me again about your 100000 miles of experience.

I'll let you know about stability when I start running it. Have you ever run something like this? If you have, then tell me about that experience, if you havent, then stop speculating and jerkin my chain.

thanks for your input Rjacks but the way this is set up will be just fine and if it's not, I will let you know.

[Caseys500]

I wouldnt do it unless you get a cush drive and gear the crap outta it...

A stock wheel wouldnt have a cush drive either...but I do.

[ISBB]

jesus the both of ya take a or somethin