Bottom end help?? :(
- dahondaboy
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Bottom end help?? :(
Well I don't know weather to cry or puke.....
my motor has been making noise and getting worse each ride. today I took it out for 10 minutes and it sounded horrible, so I decided to take the top end off today and wow my rod has so much play like a 1/4 inch or more side to side yet the piston looks fine. so my question is what is the cheapest possible route for a rebuild kit for the bottom end? I am on an extremely tight budget and can hardly afford little things as it is.
what parts do you pro's reccomend and what should I be looking for as I tear into it? if you guys could give me a detailed list of the parts I will need I can scour ebay and a couple other sources for them. and as I dont wanna tear into it a gain for a long time is there anything else that needs replaced whilst im in that deep. thank you guys in advance.
a very depressed dahondaboy
my motor has been making noise and getting worse each ride. today I took it out for 10 minutes and it sounded horrible, so I decided to take the top end off today and wow my rod has so much play like a 1/4 inch or more side to side yet the piston looks fine. so my question is what is the cheapest possible route for a rebuild kit for the bottom end? I am on an extremely tight budget and can hardly afford little things as it is.
what parts do you pro's reccomend and what should I be looking for as I tear into it? if you guys could give me a detailed list of the parts I will need I can scour ebay and a couple other sources for them. and as I dont wanna tear into it a gain for a long time is there anything else that needs replaced whilst im in that deep. thank you guys in advance.
a very depressed dahondaboy
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
sorry to hear that man, wewre in the same boat, my rod had so much play it let the piston smash into the crank and explode ( my thread and pics are in this section) it also had enough side play to the left to allow it to hit the crank face and polish itself.. totally wiered looking as the marks look like they were done intentionally. youll need a rod kit ( we had some trouble finding one, honda seemded to have dropped them over here and bike bandit had them one day then not the other) you can get an aftermarket rod kit from L.A sleeve.
Youll need all the bottom end bearings and gaskets because youll be splitting the cases. make sure your cylinder is OK because if the rod was allowing the piston to rock around it could have done bad things to the cylinder wall and will then need a rebore and top end kit. youll have to take/send the crank and rod to a machine shop because its all pressed together if you have to do a full rebuild your looking at the $500 neighborhood, if its just the bottom end i think youde be at about half of that? hope that helps a bit.. i know it sucks im right in the middle of it too.
Youll need all the bottom end bearings and gaskets because youll be splitting the cases. make sure your cylinder is OK because if the rod was allowing the piston to rock around it could have done bad things to the cylinder wall and will then need a rebore and top end kit. youll have to take/send the crank and rod to a machine shop because its all pressed together if you have to do a full rebuild your looking at the $500 neighborhood, if its just the bottom end i think youde be at about half of that? hope that helps a bit.. i know it sucks im right in the middle of it too.
Jay
I break stuff
I break stuff
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- dahondaboy
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- Joined: January 16th, 2008, 3:35 pm
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I have been using castor 927 but I guess I should have drilled the oil holes in the piston that glen howell recomended. And apparently now that its all tore apart I see there was no torque plate used in the boring as it has the tell tale octogon shape in there, damnit. I will need a rod kit as it does have a ton of play like what bigjay was describing.
I have the motor almost ready to split the case, but I notice there is a tiny hole the size of a small flathead screwdriver in the bottom of the case forward of the oil plug, is this supposed to be there? no oil came out of it and i never noticed a compression loss. also is there any other screws holding the case from the clutch side before I start banging it apart? I removed everything from the ign. side. but I dont know if there are any bolts that hold it together from the clutch side
I have the motor almost ready to split the case, but I notice there is a tiny hole the size of a small flathead screwdriver in the bottom of the case forward of the oil plug, is this supposed to be there? no oil came out of it and i never noticed a compression loss. also is there any other screws holding the case from the clutch side before I start banging it apart? I removed everything from the ign. side. but I dont know if there are any bolts that hold it together from the clutch side
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
- dahondaboy
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- dahondaboy
- Posts: 320
- Joined: January 16th, 2008, 3:35 pm
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- dahondaboy
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- Joined: January 16th, 2008, 3:35 pm
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What year is it? Check Service Honda's price for an OEM rod kit vs. a new crank. Sending the crank to Crankworks will cost you $70 in labor, plus the rod kit and shipping, keep that in mind when considering the cost. Generally the crank assembly will be about $300, but I just picked up a new one for my '89 for just over $200 shipped.
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if you want the 144mm crank, you can buy a complete assembled one from honda. other wise have a new rod installed- i used a hotrod, or maybe buy a oem rod and have it installed. 2-3 oil holes on the exhaust side is all you need with a wiseco or maybe relieve the bridge alot and dont put oil holes, but either way, 85 holes aint going to make it run or last any longer. i tore apart my '98 (9 years old), still original bore with a cast piston (no oil holes)- believe me, more than 2-3 oil holes wont make a damn bit of differencedahondaboy wrote:and why dosent anyone make a drop in pre assembled crank setup? they make one for almost everything else........
- dahondaboy
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i got the cases split apart but i cant seem to get the crank out of the ign. side is that what needs to be pressed out or am i just needing a bigger hammer? i dont want to damage any thing is there maybye a c clip behind the oil seal i need to remove? the manual i have is pretty vague and dosent seem to say how to get it outta there.
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
- dahondaboy
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good thinkin' I got one of those ill give it a try today when I get off work.
as soon as i get my rod kit i guess ill send with my head to glen as i was planning on doin that in a couple weeks anyway. he shouldnt charge too much extra to press tha new rod together for me while he's at it.
as soon as i get my rod kit i guess ill send with my head to glen as i was planning on doin that in a couple weeks anyway. he shouldnt charge too much extra to press tha new rod together for me while he's at it.
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
- dahondaboy
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- Joined: January 16th, 2008, 3:35 pm
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this guy on ebay has a crank that he claims has 40hrs on it and ready to go. but says it fits 89-01 and 86-87? will this fit in an 88 cause i thought that 87 and 88 were identical.... i guess i shouldnt be a cheap ass and just continue rebuilding mine huh.
also i am really surprised at the condition of the tranyy the gears are really good no rounded edges and fifth looks new! maybye it was replaced by the previous owner or he never used it.
also i am really surprised at the condition of the tranyy the gears are really good no rounded edges and fifth looks new! maybye it was replaced by the previous owner or he never used it.
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
- dahondaboy
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well heres some pics of the crank with a dime wedged next to the rod to show the play, but i found the noise was probably coming from the ign. side bearing because as i turn it by hand it turns half way and catches, and also makes a gritty grindy noise.
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
I wish you took better photo's.....
The max serviceable limit on the side clearance is 0.032". A dime is 0.052".
Did the dime just fall in, or is it tight?
It almost looks like the dime is between the crank and the rod, and not between the thrust washer, and the rod.... where you should be measuring.
The crank may be usable...
The max serviceable limit on the side clearance is 0.032". A dime is 0.052".
Did the dime just fall in, or is it tight?
It almost looks like the dime is between the crank and the rod, and not between the thrust washer, and the rod.... where you should be measuring.
The crank may be usable...
- dahondaboy
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- dahondaboy
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- britincali
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- dahondaboy
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by feel there isnt any up and down but i just bought a good feeler set from napa and it measures exactly 0.036 on the sides.
i am hillclimbing this season wouldnt it be good insurance to replace the rod and bearings while i have it apart though??
i am hillclimbing this season wouldnt it be good insurance to replace the rod and bearings while i have it apart though??
i dont own assault rifles, i own homeland defense rifles!!!!
- britincali
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