Finally tore down my engine(pics)

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:21 am

kkvslayer wrote:also I forgot to mention there was no ball bearing in the clutch assembly

are you sure it isn't stuck in the lifter? mine was, it built up some sludge that kept it in there.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 8:22 am

dannygraves wrote:
kkvslayer wrote:also I forgot to mention there was no ball bearing in the clutch assembly
are you sure it isn't stuck in the lifter? mine was, it built up some sludge that kept it in there.

I'll check later,but i'm pretty sure there was not one in there

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:23 am

if you can't find clutch parts, I have a bunch of them. I converted mine to a 90+ clitch and t/o bearing and complete side cover.
The only part I don't have is the center hub.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:28 am

of coarse if you have the green I would recommend doing what I did. Not only is the clutch pull a lot lighter, but the operation is smoother. Most importantly the parts are available. I couldn't find the center and I wanted to replace my corroded waterpump anyway. I bought all the parts to do the conversion used from a guy parting out a '93 for like $100+shipping. Now if I break something I can find it easily. If I notch up this basket I can go buy a hindson which I couldn't do with the old one.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 8:49 am

dannygraves wrote:of coarse if you have the green I would recommend doing what I did. Not only is the clutch pull a lot lighter, but the operation is smoother. Most importantly the parts are available. I couldn't find the center and I wanted to replace my corroded waterpump anyway. I bought all the parts to do the conversion used from a guy parting out a '93 for like $100+shipping. Now if I break something I can find it easily. If I notch up this basket I can go buy a hindson which I couldn't do with the old one.

There is a hinson clutch basket available @ dennis kirk and I saw one on ebay earlier,That thought of changing to the newer side cover and clutch is already in my mind,I wouldn't even mind buying a complete engine right now if the price was right.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:53 am

kkvslayer wrote:
dannygraves wrote:of coarse if you have the green I would recommend doing what I did. Not only is the clutch pull a lot lighter, but the operation is smoother. Most importantly the parts are available. I couldn't find the center and I wanted to replace my corroded waterpump anyway. I bought all the parts to do the conversion used from a guy parting out a '93 for like $100+shipping. Now if I break something I can find it easily. If I notch up this basket I can go buy a hindson which I couldn't do with the old one.
There is a hinson clutch basket available @ dennis kirk and I saw one on ebay earlier,That thought of changing to the newer side cover and clutch is already in my mind,I wouldn't even mind buying a complete engine right now if the price was right.

you have to remember that IF you do buy a whole motor and it is newer than '88 the swingarm bolt holes will be 2mm larger and you headstay won't fit and you will have to use the carb boot from the old motor.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:57 am

'87 is everyones fav year. great power like the older ones, but it uses the new rod and the newer ignition and still has a wide ratio trans ('88 went close ratio). But it still uses the old clutch and the old countershaft so the c/s sprockets are still a little harder to find.
What year is your bike anyway? for some reason I want to think its an '86.
if it is '86 or older and you find that you need to rebuild the crank you may have to get an '87+ rod kit and put a spacer under the cylinder.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 9:38 am

dannygraves wrote:'87 is everyones fav year. great power like the older ones, but it uses the new rod and the newer ignition and still has a wide ratio trans ('88 went close ratio). But it still uses the old clutch and the old countershaft so the c/s sprockets are still a little harder to find.
What year is your bike anyway? for some reason I want to think its an '86.
if it is '86 or older and you find that you need to rebuild the crank you may have to get an '87+ rod kit and put a spacer under the cylinder.

Your right its a 86

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 10:05 am

I'm looking @ a parts fiche and it says the mainshaft fifth gear is N/A,is this true?

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 10:22 am

kkvslayer wrote:I'm looking @ a parts fiche and it says the mainshaft fifth gear is N/A,is this true?

I wouldn't be surprised, most of the parts that are pre '87 are unavailable, or it will say that it is, but they just send you the newer vesion which doesn't fit. I've heard of people buying the old clutch basket from SH and receiving the new one.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 10:26 am

I can't remember which gear, but I'm assuming its the largest main shaft gear. if you go here they show an updated p/n, maybe they made some changes to it in '87
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.as ... onda#SDOWN

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 10:33 am

no you know what, thats c1, but M5 is 23481-ml3-000 and SH has it listed for $52.63
thats #14 in the parts fiche

97af · Post by **97af** » July 5th, 2007, 2:33 pm

Just to give you an Idea of the liner thickness on a fresh 89mm bore.Its an old shot...I wish it was that fresh now.

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 5th, 2007, 2:56 pm

You can also see the "Bridge Relief" too...

Ideally, it sholud extend a tad bit more, beyond where it currently stops.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 3:19 pm

AlisoBob wrote:
97af wrote:Maybe its the picture but that cylinder sleeve looks really thin.
2MM over maybe?
Good call Mike.... notice the reveal on the combustion chamber too.

KKV, I know your in the middle of "Nowheresville"....

How close is the nearest machine shop?

( or UPS depot?...... )

How much does it cost for a resleeve,new piston kit?

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 5th, 2007, 3:26 pm

Like any journey, you need to know where your starting from....

Thats why I asked you if a machine shop is near by...

It could be as simple as:

1. Have bore measured, and find out its within spec.

2. Have head opened up to match bore oversize.

3. Order piston kit of the proper size ( the whole kit should be about $150)

Reassemble.

OR, your may find that the bore is junk, and you are at the last oversize. A new jug from S/H is about $260 last time I checked...

OR, you may find yourself somewhere in the middle....

Measuring the bore is the first step in any scenario....

Resleaving , in my opinion, is a poor option. Go with the new jug. Its like $20 more when all is said and done.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 3:37 pm

AlisoBob wrote:Like any journey, you need to know where your starting from....

Thats why I asked you if a machine shop is near by...

It could be as simple as:

1. Have bore measured, and find out its within spec.

2. Have head opened up to match bore oversize.

3. Order piston kit of the proper size ( the whole kit should be about $150)

Reassemble.

OR, your may find that the bore is junk, and you are at the last oversize. A new jug from S/H is about $260 last time I checked...

OR, you may find yourself somewhere in the middle....

Measuring the bore is the first step in any scenario....

Resleaving , in my opinion, is a poor option. ^o with the new jug. Its like $20 more when all is said and done.

so you guys think my piston is too big or too small for the bore?

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 5th, 2007, 3:48 pm

I have no idea... this is what YOU need to find out.

Once you find out about your "Bore Size", you can proceed in the correct direction.

kkvslayer · Post by **kkvslayer** » July 5th, 2007, 3:53 pm

AlisoBob wrote:I have no idea... this is what YOU need to find out.

Once you find out about your "Bore Size", you can proceed in the correct direction.

If my bore was Too small wouldn't it have seized or have more scuff marks or if it was to big wouldn't there be more blowby because it looks very clean with a few scratches and the one little scuff thats showing in the pic.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 5th, 2007, 8:20 pm

the easiest thing will be to look at the numbers on the piston. if it says 1.00, then buy a 1.5 piston and send them together to the machine shop. if the piston says 2.00 (last over bore) see if the new cylinders are available ('85 and '86 are the same, the '87 and '88 saw changed to timing, but will work)
the number is on the top middle of the piston.

ou812 · Post by **ou812** » July 6th, 2007, 8:10 am

85-86 barrels are not avalible, get a sleave and press in.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 6th, 2007, 8:28 am

ou812 wrote:85-86 barrels are not avalible, get a sleave and press in

thats what I thought

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 6th, 2007, 2:57 pm

KKV, I see your now having machine shops quote you for a "re-sleeve" job...

Have you not read any of my posts?

Your jug may be fine.... as in "Completely Servicable" as is .

You need to measure it, before you assume anything else...

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » July 6th, 2007, 6:19 pm

like I said, if you don't have any way to acurately measure, look at the numbers on the piston, as long as it isn't 91mm or 2.00mm over (.080") then you can just go one more over. no one will be able to tell you the bore size by looking in the picture. it looks thin, but you might just me at 1.5mm over which would give you a full aditional bore. no one can tell you the difference between 1.5mm and 2.0mm through a picture.

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 6th, 2007, 6:28 pm

Why would you ever bore a cylinder that doesn't need it?

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Finally tore down my engine(pics)