AlisoBob wrote:Weld it with everything shimmed and bolted into their final position.
i did as you said, BUT when i picked my frame up from the welder the engine was pulled out and sitting in a box... I was thinking WTF. These holes better line up. There was some slight movement too but luckily i could get the bolts back in. Must say i was not impressed..
Anyway we got lucky, could of stuffed it all up right there
Roostius_Maximus wrote:It needs to come out to weld the backside
edit, just went and had a closer look. I was thinking you could pull the nut and push the bolt through, flip the bolt and do the other side the same so there is always a bolt in there before the contraction.. little too close fit near clutch cover front bolt
Anyway doesnt matter now, it's done
Last edited by coley13 on August 5th, 2011, 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
got a bit butt sore mate. they all move a bit, if your welder was smart he would have put spacers in the engine mounts after removing your engine all is good have another beer
gregrobo wrote:got a bit butt sore mate. they all move a bit, if your welder was smart he would have put spacers in the engine mounts after removing your engine all is good have another beer
well no, this is my first build. I think i'm doing alright thus far. Saying that i've been getting a few roll eye's latetly both here and other site. I'm living and learning as i go just like you blokes with you first time.
I just want to share my build and hopefully help others who may not wish to attempt it as it may seem daunghting... Not only that there are people out there charghing rediculous amounts of money for very little work and taking advantage of the unsuspecting
coley you are a wild man and i like that about you. I think the build looks good and i think your pipe mount ideas are great. Just remember everyone has an opinion and only one that matters is yours. Thanks for sharing your build. there are some cool faces to counteract the rollie eyes faces you have been getting lately.
i thought at this stage i will mock up the bike.. it wouldnt start, do you think it's fuel or electrical
check what swaps over from 125 to the 250. To my surprise the only thing that does not fit is the upper shock bolt... On the 125 there is a recess on the NUT side, the 250 does not have that recess. So the bolt is too short to get the nut on...
That is really bizarre, got me buggered why they would be different. Even though it's different suspension the hole should still be the same. Anyway doesnt matter thats easily sorted with a longer bolt. Everything else seems to fit at this stage
coley13 wrote:rear pipe mount, cost me $3... I thought bugger welding it. I've used a 32mm super clamp with the bango clamp bolt going straight through it....
The reason i did this is i can use this pipe on both my 500's if i want to.
I like the clearance you have for your pipe, mine is within mm of touching the bottom of the air box. Probably because I used the CR250 air box??
UknowDamright wrote:
I like the clearance you have for your pipe, mine is within mm of touching the bottom of the air box. Probably because I used the CR250 air box??
That seems strange, bent pipe maybe ? i think the box is the same, just the boots different. Did you use the original lower engine mounts ?
i've hit a bit of a stand still. Was going to throw my steely motor in until i build the new motor....
she's got cracked a piston... i noticed last ride she was getting a little piston slap, so though i should pull her down for a look see before fitting it to the AF.
UknowDamright wrote:
I like the clearance you have for your pipe, mine is within mm of touching the bottom of the air box. Probably because I used the CR250 air box??
That seems strange, bent pipe maybe ? i think the box is the same, just the boots different. Did you use the original lower engine mounts ?
yup stock bottom mounts, no worries..... I double checked it, and the reason it looks so close is because of the rubber piece that fits over the pipe connection to the silencer
I would install the engine that I intended to use, and then "Match Drill" all 3 engine mount bolt holes to 7/16" ( Slightly oversize from 10mm) so the holes line up exactly with zero slop.
Then, shim any gaps ( dont draw the frame closed with the mounting bolts)