full airfilter

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 11:56 am

so im racing a 2.5 hour race last sunday, real dusty, thought id be ok had a brand new filter that was soaked in oil and a filterskin
my ignition coil is on its way out, wont start unless i give it a monster kick....
magura slave died so im using a cable... huge clutch fade
basicaly its a huge whopped out dustbowl, passing lots on the straights, i get to the enduroX track, epic fail, clutch wouldnt disengage so im on the gas, brakes, throttle and clutch at the same time trying to slow down... end up stalling it probably 10 times, and it took 25+ kicks each time to start it

had a lot of problems but it was still fun, until i pulled the airfilter, there was 2 spots on the inside that were dirty like the outside, where i couldnt get the filterskin to cover the filter
so i pull the jug and this is what i see.... FUCK 35 hours and its toast

im hoping to get away with just flushing it out and a new piston, going to get the bore measured right now

also the crank moves just a hair (10 thou ish) in and out if i pull really hard, never really paid atention if it did that before

this was a flat field at the start of the race, 300+ people there

nmdesertrider · Post by **nmdesertrider** » April 30th, 2011, 12:13 pm

I have been using FLO 3 stage filters myself, they really seem to help

http://pcracingusa.com/store/index.php?cPath=4

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 12:24 pm

i can fit a 4 thou feeler without forcing it anywhere around the piston, not a 5 thou tho....???????????
that foam filterskin looks like a sweet idea, i might have to try one

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 30th, 2011, 12:53 pm

2strokeforever wrote:i can fit a 4 thou feeler without forcing it anywhere around the piston, not a 5 thou tho....???????????

Clyde been giving you "machine shop" lessons?

I've never seen that much dirt go through a well oiled filter. You sure S/H didnt screw the pooch on sealing the boot flange???

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 1:21 pm

I've never seen that much dirt go through a well oiled filter. You sure S/H didnt screw the pooch on sealing the boot flange???

it wasnt sealed well from sh, but that was taken care of long ago, it was crazy dusty sometimes you couldnt see your front fender....
so basicaly the filter had so much dirt in it that on the inside of the filter there was 2 spots the size of a toonie where the filter oil was completley dried out by dust, so it looked like this on the outside, and 2 spots of dirt like that on the inside

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » April 30th, 2011, 1:49 pm

sounds like you got alot of problems. aside from the dirt that went through every bearing, crank aint supposed to have any end float on these motors. 0, zip, zilch

i put away the feelers. broke down and bought bore gauge

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 30th, 2011, 3:58 pm

100hp honda wrote:
i put away the feelers. broke down and bought bore gauge

2strokekyle · Post by **2strokekyle** » April 30th, 2011, 4:32 pm

I've had filters look WAY worse than that, and not a speck went through. Granted it ran super rich and shitty until I got back to the cabin. But when I swapped it out the boot and inside of the carb were spotless.

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 30th, 2011, 5:03 pm

2strokekyle wrote:I've had filters look WAY worse than that, and not a speck went through. Granted it ran super rich and shitty until I got back to the cabin. But when I swapped it out the boot and inside of the carb were spotless.

X 2.

Thats why I commented on the air boot flange seal.

UNI + Super Sticky Blue Bel-Ray =

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 5:13 pm

that was just an example, it was way worse....
results came in, 14th place, not worth frying a engine for

decided im gonna do it proper, new crank bearings, big end is still good, send the cylinder to roosty and let him decide what to do with it, probably end up boring it
the weird thing is it just ripped the whole race, i figured it would start running shitty before any dirt got through
on the bright side now i realise how fast it really is, on the open areas im leaving way faster riders than me a facefull of roost, had ryan grafunder behind me for the entire grasstrack

if he was on a 2 stroke i woulda let him by...

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 5:26 pm

sealed up the airboot with 3M weather strip adhesive
was running a brand new moose airfilter that was oiled with maxima FFT with as much as it would hold, there was oil dripping into the airbox, and a filterskin which i took off halfway through the race, i probably woulda been better off leaving it on
i think it was just how dusty it was, there was a few guys that changed their airfilter 3 times in that race, now i know why

3 mile long track with 150+ riders on it for 2.5 hours... and 150+ riders on for 1.5 hours before that to dig the dust up to the top

they left out the real dusty pics, cause you wouldnt be able to see anything

http://www.directmotocross.com/news/off ... ace-report

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 30th, 2011, 5:46 pm

2strokeforever wrote:that was just an example, it was way worse....
results came in, 14th place, not worth frying a engine for
decided im gonna do it proper, new crank bearings, big end is still good, send the cylinder to roosty and let him decide what to do with it, probably end up boring it
the weird thing is it just ripped the whole race, i figured it would start running shitty before any dirt got through
on the bright side now i realise how fast it really is, on the open areas im leaving way faster riders than me a facefull of roost, had ryan grafunder behind me for the entire grasstrack if he was on a 2 stroke i woulda let him by...

The way things are going for you , you might as well just rering the piston, flush the lower end and go hammer it some more.

I've raced a lot in talcum powder dirt. filters just plug and bike runns super rich. Running belray oil and a twin air.

If you have to bore it out your STR crank's sweet spot will be at a higher rpm now..........

Could just hone .002 it and coat the piston to gain the .002 back if the jug isn't too bad, then the piston weight change will be neglible.

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » April 30th, 2011, 5:54 pm

the filter skin fell off is what you telling us ? or you didnt put it on right ? ive used them for years and have one on every bike as we speak and dirt wont get on the filter like your photo. obviously the filter in your pic didnt have a skin.

whats this whole thread about because im lost

i hear glen has a 2 for 1 deal on the cheese grater special

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 30th, 2011, 6:10 pm

Read his posts again. He pulled the skin off 1/2 way thru the race when it plugged.

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 6:12 pm

and a filterskin which i took off halfway through the race, i probably woulda been better off leaving it on

Could just hone .002 it and coat the piston to gain the .002 back if the jug isn't too bad

jug isnt too bad, but could that swaintech stuff stick onto vertex coating?, theres still some left
i think the crank bearings are shot so i might as well do the whole thing right, im kinda worried about how fast im going through my overbores tho

this winter im gonna get an aluminum sleeve with nikasil, i never want to see an iron bore again
im gonna buy a few of those thick foam filterskins that desertrider posted

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » April 30th, 2011, 6:40 pm

nmdesertrider posted wrong link. this is what you want http://pcracingusa.com/store/index.php? ... v4aevak8p7

dont oil the skin and dont pull the damn thing off

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 30th, 2011, 6:47 pm

yes swaintech can remove the moly coating and put a pc-9 on. I doubt you will gain much bore size unless you go with the thick pc-9. Unfortunately they can NOT control the thick coat like the thin standard coat and the thickness will vary from .002 to .004 or something like that. Check there site or call em monday for specifics. They are straight shooters I'd say.

Pretty glad you have not had a nikasil jug yet I bet.

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 6:53 pm

Pretty glad you have not had a nikasil jug yet I bet.

ya, im gonna be checking my airfilter every hour from now on

clyde thats what i had, i shouldnt have pulled it off halfway thru tho

i think im gonna run the same thing i have been with that extra foam filterskin, and a regular filterskin

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 30th, 2011, 7:04 pm

I have not tried a foam skin yet. Not too keen on having to buy the whole filter kit just to get the foam skin. You can't buy em separetly.

I would like to give a go. Filter skinz are a bit of a pain to deal with installing.

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 7:05 pm

so i need to get my bore properly measured and if it can clean up with just removing 1/2 a thou i can send my piston to get coated and slap it together and it will be as good as new?
still gotta do the crank bearings tho

You can't buy em separetly

im thinking a foam shop could probably sell me some foam and glue and i coould make it work

i had issues getting the filterskins on properly, not enough room in that little airbox

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 30th, 2011, 7:19 pm

Your SH prolly has the side access right? You may consider going to a top loader........

Did you do a compression test before you tore the motor down?

Ring ring and new mains I'm betting it runs great for years.

you would be better off buying the foam skin IMO. you got 40K$ into your bike and a $20 or $30 skin is too much?

2strokekyle · Post by **2strokekyle** » April 30th, 2011, 9:32 pm

Am I wrong in thinking these moose filters you are using and/or your oiling method is the problem?? I use Uni filters with the Belray blue pour on stuff( like a lot of members here recomend) and a good bead of grease to seal it to the box. They will flat out clog up and the bike not run for shit long before ANY dirt gets through... I was under the impression that the filter skins are more to gain time between filter changes, not to act as a permanent pre- filter.

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 9:42 pm

Am I wrong in thinking these moose filters you are using and/or your oiling method is the problem??

100%
i have a thing of bel ray filter oil.... it only gets used if im out of maxima....
also have a uni filter, but prefer the moose airfilter, when i put the moose on i know for sure its sealing, the uni is a little sketchy takes a few tries to get right

Your SH prolly has the side access right? You may consider going to a top loader........

? i love the side access

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » April 30th, 2011, 9:44 pm

sounds sketchy because nobody else has this problem.

skins work tits if their used right. probly had the same skin on since last summer

and throw that side load box in the weeds or cut a hole in the top

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » April 30th, 2011, 9:52 pm

or cut a hole in the top

it comes with a hole in the top...

BannedCR500Riders.com

full airfilter

full airfilter