Repacking exhaust

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 28th, 2011, 3:49 pm

I feel really stupid about asking about this but i have never had the privilege of repacking an exhaust before. I have a FMF turbine core II and I already have taken the end cap off ( the side that connects to the expansion camber)
I have gotten most of the old crap out but it seems like there still is stuff in there and i have no idea how to reach down in there to get it out. Any help?

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » March 28th, 2011, 3:53 pm

coat hanger, long screw driver etc etc

NightBiker07 · Post by **NightBiker07** » March 28th, 2011, 3:54 pm

Long screwdriver. Long pick. anything long that can be used to scrape or grab the crap inside

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 28th, 2011, 4:19 pm

So just rip this stuff out after taking out the allen screw on the outside of the canister?

Tharrell · Post by **Tharrell** » March 28th, 2011, 4:20 pm

After you get it out, overstuff it and use masking tape to help get it back in.
The masking tape will release and the fiber will expand somewhat.
It's one of those things where you almost need 3 hands. Have fun

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 28th, 2011, 4:21 pm

Oh Joy!

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » March 28th, 2011, 4:31 pm

if you have a homedepot rivet gun you can drill the old ones out and pull the end cap. done it to all mine

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 28th, 2011, 4:48 pm

Unfortunately I do not have a rivet gun. Its being a B*#%@ to get out.. I am starting to think it is impossible hahaha.

Tharrell · Post by **Tharrell** » March 28th, 2011, 5:04 pm

Naw, it's been cooking.
Just work it.

hoofarted · Post by **hoofarted** » March 29th, 2011, 8:58 am

They disassemble pretty simply. End cap needs rivets drilled out - you can replace with screws if need be. Clean it up real good, removing all the caked on crap on the tube, etc. Wire wheel works well for that. Then re-wrap silencer packing around tube as tightly as possible, cramming the whole sum bitch together, then hold with some tape. Final alignment is a bit of a PITA but it works.

When I got my 500, it was missing ALL the packing in the PC silencer. Was real loud and twangy. New packing made all the difference.

Good luck!

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » March 29th, 2011, 11:50 am

Final alignment is a bit of a PITA but it works

especially on a SA silencer...
cant really notice on my 500, but on a 125 and 250 it makes a huge diffrence in low end torque to have fresh packing in there

and blown out packing sounds like crap

blownbillybob · Post by **blownbillybob** » March 30th, 2011, 9:55 am

Make sure all the little holes In the center pipe are unclogged I use a torch to heat it up and burn the carbon out

If you don't clear the holes don't bother repacking your waisting your time!!!!!

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 30th, 2011, 11:44 pm

I was trying to get around drilling off the rivets but i guess it needs to be done.

The inner pipe's holes are clearly not plugged. Just a little black.. Actually allot black. Is this normal or is my jetting off?

Rhino89523 · Post by **Rhino89523** » March 31st, 2011, 7:17 am

Dude I know I will probably get flack for this but that packing in the very end doesn't look burnt or oil filled. If you don't want to drill the rivots, "F" it. Clean the holes up, that is important, repack it and leave that chunk in there until the next time...its not going to be that long before you are back. Once it gets burnt it will fall out....buy yourself some time and get the rivot gun for next time. It depends how much spooge you have in there weather its normal or not but some black crap is normal.

AdmirableSoup · Post by **AdmirableSoup** » March 31st, 2011, 6:14 pm

I left it in there. I Fail.

hoofarted · Post by **hoofarted** » April 1st, 2011, 7:29 am

AdmirableSoup wrote:I left it in there. I Fail.

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Repacking exhaust

Repacking exhaust