BannedCR500Riders.com

i got a 99 cr 250 ignition from kball xxx, thanks for the overnight shipping, and got her hooked up, heres what i think:
does NOT stall easier
i can actually steer through the woods, instead of bouncing in between trees
before the bike felt like i was carrings a 5l jerry can full on the back and front fender, now it feels like its gone
its easyer to start if i start it just after TDC (i always do it that way), but a bit harder if i just kick ( i never do that anyway) (yes i gaped the pulsar on both of them)
a little mellower off the bottom
doesnt feel like its making more power, but it is a lot faster to get it

tried stock timing and full advance, but i was on trails so i couldnt tell the difference between the two
i am using the 500 coil
the temps this weekend are way colder than the last so the mid/top power will be different because of that,
but i keep the pilot/ airscrew adjusted all the time so the easier starting was NOT from a jetting change

i noticed the raised trigger is around 1/4-1/8 inch off on the 250 compared to the 500, i think its throwing the timing out of wack, but then i dont know whats happening in the CDI so maybe it all balances out?

im guessing the 250 flywheel has half or less the inertia of the 500


the 250 CDI is 1/2 inch bigger than stock and the conectors are in the way so i had to "custom" mount it, i was in a rush and i know it looks like shit, but I had to get it done quick so i could ride


heres where the timing is off, but the CDI map maybe is difrent to compensate, but i dont think it is
the keyways are lined up as close as i can get them, but the 250 trigger is advanced compared to the 500, (dammit i shoulda tested full retarded instead of advance)


i used a mexican milling machine to machine the backing plate, it looks shitty but it works decent, i also used a o ring to center the backing plate, but it was too thick so i streched it over the chuck of my drill and used a file to adjust it to the right thickness. i will make a real spacer later out of aluminum or UHMW.
(a mexican milling machine is a die grinder bit in a cordless drill)


if you have a 99- 01 please tell me what works for you
ps i might be interested in selling my 3 month old stock setup (-the coil) for a $175canadian+shipping, or trading it for 03-07 250 setup, or better yet a pvl...(roosty)

hey 2strk4eva...could you post your findings in my tread...Yours is informitive & not all piss & wind but tried & tested...cheers Asteroid

http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/board/ ... php?t=8044

Nice write up! Thanks!

hey 2strk4eva...could you post your findings in my tread

ya after i go riding today...
i wish i could get my hands on a timing light

rode some more today and noticed my bike idled a lot lower without stalling compared to the 500 setup and practiced the endurox track and the 250 setup is harder to stall and the only thing i like better about the 500 setup is sometimes the heavy flywheel is nice for big logs to rev up and dump the clutch, and let the flywheel launch me over, like a trials rider does
but overall the 250 is way better
right now im running full retarded, because it looks like thats how it should be? and id rather not ping

still cant figure whether it has more or less power because it went from burning hot outside to cold in 1 week so my jetting is probably a little lean, dont have time to check though, gotta ride, and im on trails getting for the race so its not under enough load to burn down by being a little off
but ill get it dialed next weekend

I'm running a 99 with a vortex, I'm going to seperate the flywheel and reclock about a 1\4 inch see what happens. The 93 flywheel is very close to the stock 500. I don't know why the 99s pick up is closer to the keyway. Right now you realy have to retard it to make it work. By reclocking the pick up, you shouldn't have to retard the stator plate so much. The best so far has been a 93 with vortex, but being anolog it won't work. I'm trying to get the 99 to work as good as the 93. Will see if reclocking the pick up helps. I'm going to cut the ribbits out then set it in water up to the top and tig it, the water will keep it cool so there won't be any interference with the magnetic field

will i get better power if i retard it even more than full retarded at the stator without grinding the holes longer, and if you find out exactly how much its off could you let me know???

I'm going to seperate the flywheel and reclock about a 1\4 inch see what happens

you could install it without the woodruff key like the pvl just to test different timings before you get happy with the welder

i also read the 250 cdi is 2.5 degrees more retarded over the 500

Glad to see it all worked out and you got it quick from me. Thanks again for the extra kickback too!

Little confused.... Because mine with the 99 250 ignition runs like a ragging jaguar from hell with the timing set dead on the tab, retarding or advancing makes it run crappy I am running a 114/91 50/50mix, so no pinging

2strokeforever wrote:will i get better power if i retard it even more than full retarded at the stator without grinding the holes longer, and if you find out exactly how much its off could you let me know???

I'm going to seperate the flywheel and reclock about a 1\4 inch see what happens

you could install it without the woodruff key like the pvl just to test different timings before you get happy with the welder

i also read the 250 cdi is 2.5 degrees more retarded over the 500

I am hoping he meant he was going to adjust the stator, hopefully not weld his flywheel on

I have heard 10 degrees advanced, wait no retarded, no wait 2.5 degrees

Sad truth there is no real answer, everybody seems to have a different story even with in the same year.

I'v seperated the the fly wheel before, it's easy, just when rewelding it, it almost has to be submerged to keep the heat down. I have spent alot of time trying different ign, I have done 85,86,03, 99. I have a pretty good idea how each one feels. The best set up and worth the money is going with a vortex if you have a didgital ign.

have you had the cr 500 maps put into the vortex digital ignition are you running the x10 or standard vortex

I had 1 map thats stock cr500, 2 of them are cr250 maps, of the cr250 mapping 1 has even more advance than the other, the rest are a mix of traction and control. I call the cr250 maps my gp maps. In 500 setting you hold it wide open and run through the gears, when you run out of rpm hit the switch for a 250 map and take off again like you had another gear. Playing with the different maps there are faster maps for the moto than the 250 maping, for a fast gp like glen helan with elevation changes the cr250 map works best. If the track was just water and it's hard pack there is a mode or two that anyone would be faster using no matter what level of rider they are.

27maverick wrote: I have spent alot of time trying different ign, I have done 85,86,03, 99,

You can say that again

Between you constantly jetting or playing with the ignition we are lucky to get a moto in

retarding or advancing the 01 CR250 ignition on my bike made it worse, the stock position was best.

It seems that the pick up bar and its location play a part in where you set the timing. Also of course the cdi box it self, according to mike a mt racing [Vortex] the 99 box is a stand alone ign. And I believe it's just not the plugs are different than say a 97, 96, 01. The biggest difference in where you set your timing weather advanced or retarded is the condition of the cylinder and the port timing. Small differences there make big differences when it comes to where you set it. The seat of your pants and a stopwatch to finsh it off

am i wrong is the keyway on the crank top dead center thats the relation between the 2 setups we set ours so that the 250 ignition was in the same point as the 500 ignition asteroids ignition thread has all the photos and is exactly how we set ours up a simple slot in the plate is all it needs also we found that even with the timing wrong it started with a half hearted kick and most of the time on the first one but it ran hot and was flat with no power
and bob stickied asteroids thread it has all the photos of the stator plates and info

i also forgot to mention just before i swapped i mangled my exhaust pipe, maybe i gained a bunch but the pipe is masking any gains

27maverick wrote:
I have spent alot of time trying different ign, I have done 85,86,03, 99,

howd the 03 work???
the rc valve got me thinking happy thoughts, about the 500

oops I ment 1993 not 03, as you get older the years all seem to just come together into one big long year.

after a lot of messing i figured out that if you set the crank at TDC youll see a line on your flywheel and a line on the stator and a point casted into the case like here but with a flywheel(asteroids picture)




asteroid500 wrote

So youd need to find TDC via the spark plug hole then adjust your stator plate so that the centere of your pick up point on your fly wheel is cental to the stator pick up point.
Doing this will then give you a "STATIC" TDC from were you my choose to time to you OWN or engine builders requirements.

well i put the original 500 ignition and flywheel on and put it at TDC and all the lines lined up, there supposed too. k now for the 250 WITHOUT MOVING THE CRANK i took the 500 off and put the 250 setup on at original timing and what do you know all the lines lined up, even though the pickup was roughly 3-4 mm advanced THE TIMING MARKS LINED UP, so that means the 250 mapping compensates for the pickup being in a different spot

so when we look at rsss396 mapping we see

All flywheels/stator combos were mocked up on a motor and degreed and marked with true TDC.

A solid stationary timing pointer was mounted on the stator off the pickup coil screw.

The degreed TDC mark is aligned with this tab so you can time the motor while looking down at the flywheel instead of the bottom like the factory did.

assuming the 99 map is close to the same as the 2000(BTW does anyone have the 99 map???) that would mean i need to advance 4 degrees to get the same max timing
keep in mind i eyeballed everything so its not perfect, but the way i did it i can guarantee its within a few degrees, because i didnt move the crank
i was running full retarded so now im at stock and ill see how it works on the weekend to see if my logic makes sense, or to see if i just confused myself even more