BannedCR500Riders.com

yeah,yeah i know. i should go read through the search forums but i wanted some up to date ideas anyhow. i pulled the clutch out today to file down the notches in the basket. i noticed that the drive gear had signs of pitting(wear) on it. this is a bad sign. but this is usually the first gear to wear so i hope my gbox hasnt done the same thing since ive only been using 10-40 cheap motor oil and changing after 4-5 hrs. im starting to think i should use a thicker gear oil, maybe 80-90 gear oil to look after the box/gears. would a oil this thick cause problems? or would it be a good idea for an older worn transmission? every time i change my oil, it comes out with a lot of micro alloy particles through it. it looks like graphite oil. grey and sparkley. ive used a magnet on the plug and only getting a little bit of metal dust but shit loads of the alloy stuff. will a thicker oil stop more wear?

thestuz wrote: will a thicker oil stop more wear?

No, but swapping out the alloy drive plates for steel ones will keep allot of trash out of the oil, and the trash is whats causing most of the wear... especially on the drive gear oil seal collar.

I got a 5 gallon pail of Rotella T40, works good on all my bikes. ends up being like $2.80 qt. I like the clutch action better than the 10-40 I was running before, not as grabby.

type F tranny fluid

AlisoBob wrote:

thestuz wrote: will a thicker oil stop more wear?

No, but swapping out the alloy drive plates for steel ones will keep allot of trash out of the oil, and the trash is whats causing most of the wear... especially on the drive gear oil seal collar.

its got steel plates in it but the oil still gets that metalic look after 2 rides. after 4 rides it is shocking.you can barely see through it. i think its coming from the deep notches in the clutch basket. ive just filed it down and drilled the holes in the fingers for more oil flow.... we dont have that rotella oil here in aus but i have been using cheap motor oil of 15-40 grade. maybe ill try the tranny oil. they are specifically designed for gears... has anyone here used those stainless steel clutch inserts people are talking about?? do you know who still does them?? thanks

If you have the steel plates, and the oil still looks like Turkey Gravy..... You might have a bearing spinning in its bore.

The oil should look pretty clean if you change it often..

Stop dicking with the clutch basket.... if its junk .... its junk.

Replace it.

lewisclan wrote:type F tranny fluid

The only way to roll! Its dirt cheap, makes the tranny shift like butter and definatly helps with clutch slip.

i put some rotella in the ktm and it worked pretty good, almost shifts as nice as a honda . i got some type F im going to try this weekend to see if it works even better.

I run rotella, but DeWayne had me running the type F for a long time.

Might pay to go inside the gearbox for a gander, you never know what you might find.

Hopefully there is nothing wrong but if there is and you don't know it, there will be more damage than you need.
( more expense )

dannygraves wrote:I run rotella, but DeWayne had me running the type F for a long time.

I like Rotella, or Delo

Question, by cleaning up the basket, does that change anything? As far as how much slop there is between towers I mean. Don't these baskets have the elastomer (sp?) between the basket and gear that breaks down and allows the basket to bang against the plates?

4Z wrote:Question, by cleaning up the basket, does that change anything? As far as how much slop there is between towers I mean. Don't these baskets have the elastomer (sp?) between the basket and gear that breaks down and allows the basket to bang against the plates?

i was getting alot of clutch drag so i wanted to file down the ridges on the basket fingers. hopefully it will help.

CR500R7 wrote:Might pay to go inside the gearbox for a gander, you never know what you might find.

Hopefully there is nothing wrong but if there is and you don't know it, there will be more damage than you need.
( more expense )

no i did a complete rebuild in the box 4 months ago( 40 hours use on build) so i think its ok. im definatly not splitting the cases for another 300 hrs or more. i dont know how i didnt pick up the drive gear before and was thinking it night of just started happening from using shit oil. i went through the box last tear down and it was all looking pretty healthy. having said that, i think the drive gear is usually the first gear to wear out. was thinking of using some "slick 50" gear box treatment. think ill put up a new post on that one.

well i tried type F in the ktm and things didnt go so well. shifting gears was alittle clanky and it was hard to find nuetral. seems the plates were sticking together too much. i put 10-40 back in, so far it seems to work as good as rotella but it was $1 cheaper. i wanted to try some other oils but they were all energy conserving. the only regular oil i seen that wasnt energy conserving was 10-40 and rotella.

thestuz wrote: i was getting alot of clutch drag so i wanted to file down the ridges on the basket fingers. hopefully it will help.

You must need 10 hard drives to store all that shit on.

ive just filled it up with some thicker oil. gonna wait for the weather to dry up then give it 5 hours of riding and see how it goes got a feeling ill end up back on the 10-/40 but ya never know if ya never go!

I used to use the rotella but then figured out the cheapy oil from autozone has the same additives package( read: SJ, SH, all that crap) and is a couple bux cheaper. It has to be the deisel fleet stuff, like the rotella is spec'd for, appareently it is exempt from all that mileage enhancing crap that the clutches and gears don't like. No issues with clutch so far and shifts fine, just stay on top of your changes when using the cheap stuff.

well i took it out for a 5 hour ride and when i got back home i dumped the oil. as usual, it came out looking like silver gravy so i pulled out the clutch plates for an inspection. there was not much wear on the clutch basket fingers but the clutch hub and preassure plate look to be wearing down pretty fast. im betting this is where all the alloy in my oil is coming from! i meassured the plates and they all measured undersize(2.89mm) i also noticed that the previous owner has thrown in an extra steel clutch plate to counter act this which seems like a cheap and easy way out. i checked my clutch plates for warpage but they were fine so i cant understand why im still getting clutch drag. but ive put it all back together (in order) and am just gonna run it and change the gbox oil every ride. i hope bob was wrong about it being a gbox bearing spinning in the cases but i guess well find out in a year or so

barnett carbon! DO IT!
that sounds like a real nigyver clutch setup you have there, ditch it before all the material coming off it starts damaging bearings and seals.

even the nicest clutches are pretty inexpensive, replace the clutch with something with steel plates (even EBCs work well) and put some fresh 10w40 or 15w40 oil in there and ride the shit out of the bike!

[quote="thestuz"]thrown in an extra steel clutch plate/[quote]
I had to re-read this 3 times! SERIOUS! and you put it back together like this!!!!????!?!?!?
I think your tool box needs to be welded shut! no oil in the world is going to couter act an "extra steel plate"!!!

replace your clutch, get fresh steels and oem fibers (last longer) you can get both of these for about $130

thestuz wrote:well i took it out for a 5 hour ride and when i got back home i dumped the oil. as usual, it came out looking like silver gravy so i pulled out the clutch plates for an inspection. there was not much wear on the clutch basket fingers but the clutch hub and preassure plate look to be wearing down pretty fast. im betting this is where all the alloy in my oil is coming from! i meassured the plates and they all measured undersize(2.89mm) i also noticed that the previous owner has thrown in an extra steel clutch plate to counter act this which seems like a cheap and easy way out. i checked my clutch plates for warpage but they were fine so i cant understand why im still getting clutch drag. but ive put it all back together (in order) and am just gonna run it and change the gbox oil every ride. i hope bob was wrong about it being a gbox bearing spinning in the cases but i guess well find out in a year or so

some retard put a extra plate in there ? 2 pages of rubbish just to find out some corn hole put a extra p[late in there ???????? what kind of nitwit would do something like that ????????. i thought you had already inspected all the obvious stuff.......... obviously i was wrong

so you put it back together like that ???????????? BOB cant you make some type of filter system. seems like alot of hacks up in this mofo , granted not as many as the other site but still