BannedCR500Riders.com

Ok I started to look around to get my carb Bored out it a PWK38.

I so far called 3 places they are saying $300.00 to $400.00 buck to get it done I think they are on drugs.

Where can I get my carb bored with out breaking the bank I like to have a tapper bore over stright boring, If I can find someone who bore carbs.

Anyone out there know where to get this done for under $100.00

seems like pete loomis does it for $45

How do I get a hold of him
Thanks

100hp honda wrote:seems like pete loomis does it for $45

Here ya go

http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1323

I tryed that link not working.

But Thanks anyways.
Just woulding would it be worth it just to go buy a new carb instead the bike runs good just could use a bigger carb.

sabreguy wrote:Here ya go

http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1323

hopefully your phone skills are better than your typing. pete might slam the phone in your ear otherwise

I going to give GSS a call he just down the road.

Is your carb an airstriker?

Non Airstriker

M.F.D.B. wrote:Is your carb an airstriker?

Thanks to GSS

I had a 1 day turn around time to get my PWK 38 Bored out to 40.1 For $35.00.

Once again Thanks GSS

Next year when I tear the topend off for it yearly look see I am going have him port it.

Rode the bike today that was the magic part it was missing.

Pulls very good though the RPM range Beter on bottom also and the needed over REV it was missing.

Now with the Combo I am running P/C Pipe, CR250 Igntion, 14/48 sprockets, And now the 40.1mm PWK Carb this was the bike I been looking for now I am Happy with it.

Next is BLING time fancy clucth cover ect.

40mm, WoW! Last attempt I had with a local shop didnt even make it to 39.5mm before the carb "windowed" on both sides of the slide...

i think 2mm would be pushing the limits fo sho. i had a carb bored a while back but at the time i didnt have any tools to measure the exact inside diameter. im guessing around 1-1.5 mm

The Carb off a 1996 KX250 GSS said it made out of Magnisem I don't know thats good or bad.

I was thinking he would of gotten 39 to 39.5 out of the carb my self I was suprized when he told me it was a 40.1.

But the bike runs better now and much better on topend.

Like others have stated with the CR250 Igntion System, P/C pipe, and the Rad Valve, the motor setup to Over Rev the PWK 38 was not letting the motor do it thing.

But Now I am very happy the way it runs I going to leave it alone for a while Or untill I come across some spare money to dump in to the motor for a killer porting job from GSS.

honda02 wrote: Magnesium

uh oh......he said "the word"

Ok fill me in whats the big deal.

What am I missing here.

Its an inside joke, for all the guys that go way back to the days of me and Bob getting PM's every 5 minutes from the mods on the other site...

"The clutch cover is Magnesium Pot Metal Unubtanium Dioxide, dont ask any questions or else!!" HAHAHA

Is this a good carb to have or is it a time bomb waiting to happen you Know the Pot metal Carb.

I don't like pushing the bike back to the truck getting to old for this pushing stuff.

Plus I don't have the extra cash right now to build anouther motor after getting done with this build for a while now.

I mite be picking up a 1974 CR250 still have to explain this one to the wife.

honda02 wrote:Is this a good carb to have or is it a time bomb waiting to happen you Know the Pot metal Carb.

I don't like pushing the bike back to the truck getting to old for this pushing stuff.

Its junk, give it to me before it explodes into "Hot Wheels"!

Ride that shit like you stole it...

So I guessing most carbs are made out of Aluminim.

Much of the "aluminum" you come across is not pure. Especially in dirt bike parts. Aside from clutch covers and ocasionally stator covers, nothing is pure Magnesium, but an alloy of different percentages of Magnesium and Aluminum. Pure magnesium is lighter than Aluminum, but is very brittle and flammable. Manufactures put amounts of Mag into Aluminum to strengthin it, but like hardening steel, there is a point where hardening starts to actually become brittle.

We bore about this many a week bored carbs most around $35.00

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I am VERY happy with GSS he has outstanding work and great prices I will take my cylinder to him when I get it ported.

Some how Glenn though I was not happy with his work I want to make sure No one else thinks this way his workmanship is great I recamend his services to anyone.

M.F.D.B. wrote:
"The clutch cover is BILLET Magnesium Pot Metal Unubtanium Dioxide

Get your facts straight.....

So you trying to say it's a alloy I work with Aluminum every day In aircraft work.

Mostly 2024 7057, and 6061.

Same thing with the rivets we use you have to use the correct rivets for the job you are using or you mite have big problemes during the flight you just can pull over to the nearest cloud and park it Crashing sucks you mite kill someone.

Alloy Numbering
Designation Major Alloying Element
1XXX Pure Aluminum (99% and Greater)
2XXX Copper
3XXX Manganese
4XXX Silicon
5XXX Magnesium
6XXX Magnesium and Silicon
7XXX Zinc
Copper—One of the most important additions to aluminum. It has significant
solubility and a substantial strengthening effect through the agehardening
characteristics it imparts to aluminum.
Manganese—An addition that provides substantial strength.
Silicon—In addition to lowering the melting point and increasing the
fluidity of aluminum, silicon adds moderate strength.
Magnesium—One of the most effective and widely used alloying elements,
magnesium adds substantial strength and improves the workhardening
characteristics of aluminum. When combined with other elements
such as copper and zinc, it adds even greater strength.
Zinc—Used with magnesium, zinc helps produce the higheststrength,
heat-treatable aluminum alloys.
Nonheat-Treatable

This is why I so picky what going on and what to make sure my stuff is right from the get go sometime you can go back and redo what you screwed up on just have to explan to the family why one of there family members is dead.

M.F.D.B. wrote:Much of the "aluminum" you come across is not pure. Especially in dirt bike parts. Aside from clutch covers and ocasionally stator covers, nothing is pure Magnesium, but an alloy of different percentages of Magnesium and Aluminum. Pure magnesium is lighter than Aluminum, but is very brittle and flammable. Manufactures put amounts of Mag into Aluminum to strengthin it, but like hardening steel, there is a point where hardening starts to actually become brittle.