BannedCR500Riders.com

Well today at the track, my pos chain took a poop on me after a little table. On of the pins on the master link broke and I found myself coasting up the next table with no "tranny" I thought. I'm asking if I need an O ring because I'm currently riding an 03 cr250 with an 00 250 motor. Can I get by using a standard DID chain? Or should I shell out the bucks for a O ring, the 250 motor doesnt have as much torque so I figured the STD would work, Whatcha guys think?
BTW I was using an O ring, bought if off of Ebay, I shoulda got a better one, I know.

A chain is like a helmet, you love and value your head so you get the best protection / helmet you can possible afford.

Shit at least I hope you would.
When it comes to the chain why would you not do the same thing.
The last thing you want is the chain to go all to hell, just as you are about to get launched off a massive jump and lose forward momentum.
All your weight gets thrown forward and you have a massive endo and wind up in F@#KING WHEELCHAIR, almost worst case scenario.
Simply put I think its safer to have a good quality chain no matter what the $$$ cost compared to health.
Well its your life and health, its up to you.
I hope this was of help to you, have a nice day.

All your weight gets thrown forward and you have a massive endo and wind up in F@#KING WHEELCHAIR, almost worst case scenario.

More importantly, you could destroy the crankcase on your bike.

Any number of possiblities could happen and Im sure they all cost more than a really good chain.

Here the best deal I found on a X-Ring DID chain I have found the only draw back it comes with a rivet type master link byt the only great thing about a rivet type once it on it should never fall off on you.,
You can get the clip type of master link at you'r local shop also.

I have this chain on my last CR for 8 years+ and sold the bike with the same chain on the bike.

I now have the same chain on my Cr500.

http://www.motoxoutlet.com/index.asp?Pa ... ProdID=313

Oh yea this price beats Flee-Bay hands down and just about every where else I have looked for a Chain.

i just switched back over to the DID non oring and it spins freely as hot butter, it has the same tensile strenght as a xring, but its long term longevity is yet to be determined however. i was using a rk xring and the rubber rings got old and stiff and was causing serious drag issues......the moral of the story, the xring i was using just rubbed me the wrong way because the rings basically weather rotted, cracked and made the chain stiffer than brit on a saturday night at the playboy mansion

Don't you mean at the sheep abbatior pushing the sheep up the kill ramp, while their backing up really hard.

There is more drag with a O-Ring and X-Ring chain compaired to a non O/X ring chain but it know also they dont last as long in the dirt I hate pushing bikes to the truck or replaclcng chain and sprockets sets more often.

And making sure you get the non O/X ring lubed real good is lot more hassle just to have most of the lube come flying off and sticking to you frame rear fender and what ever else gets in it way, O/X ring lot easyer to take care of.

Back in the 70's when I use to run non O-ring they were good back then when I was on mini's and 125's on the air cooled non power valved no reed valve 2 strokes and the XR 75 days.

It like going with a wider rear tire steals power not enough air in the tires steals power and so on.

On a small bore bike you know about it but on big bore it's so little unless you racing what 1/4 H/P lost.

And if you racing every H/P lost counts but with a CR500 the lost is very little I can live with it.

I had a buddy that broke his chain going off a jump the bike threw him off the foot peg when though his Aria helmet and tore half his ear off he had it sewed back on but still never be the same shit happens but like CR500R7 said get the best even the best can break but you have a better chance it won't than the cheep stuff that will.

I don't know about you I 45 years old and picking my self off the ground is not fun and it hurts for weks at a time And going back to work on Monday is a Bicth, Not like when I was 10 years old It still hurt back then but you heal lot faster back then.


[quote="CR500R7"]

Shit at least I hope you would.
When it comes to the chain why would you not do the same thing.
The last thing you want is the chain to go all to hell, just as you are about to get launched off a massive jump and lose forward momentum.
All your weight gets thrown forward and you have a massive endo and wind up in F@#KING WHEELCHAIR, almost worst case scenario.
Simply put I think its safer to have a good quality chain no matter what the $$$ cost compared to health.

I'm not really worried about the money, I just notice that most guys get the o ring because they're tuffer and can handle the torque from the 500. Looks like I should just get a DID O/X ring chain huh? THanks for the link, looks like a good deal.

DesertCR wrote:I'm not really worried about the money, I just notice that most guys get the o ring because they're tuffer and can handle the torque from the 500. Looks like I should just get a DID O/X ring chain huh? THanks for the link, looks like a good deal.

Its not about O ring X ring or standard, well depending on how lazy one might be in lubing it.

However its all about Tensile strength and WARE Resistance. The spec chart at DID tells the story.

Get one of these, I got mine on flee ebay for the same price.
I haven't looked to see if it came with the rivet master, I hope not.

honda02 wrote: http://www.motoxoutlet.com/index.asp?Pa ... ProdID=313

Oh yea this price beats Flee-Bay hands down and just about every where else I have looked for a Chain.

Here may be another option

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/product ... ilyId=2083

Same tensile strength but $20.00 cheaper

sabreguy wrote:Here may be another option

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/product ... ilyId=2083

Same tensile strength but $20.00 cheaper

i dont want to discredit the PD chain but i have a new one here and a new DID and i compared them alittle. i know the PD claims to have a high tensile but the plates are thinner than the DID. im not sure about the pin diameter but i can check it out tomorow. personaly, the DID looks to be a much beefier chain when compared side by side to the PD, and the DID pins are qaud staked and the PD just has a cheesy crimp. im only going by looks, but the DID appears to be better qaulity all the way around.

china vs japan maybe ?

orings are for riders that want the chain to last, regular chains are for racers that want to win. Both need high tensile strength unless you plan on doing pit stops to adjust your chain. My sidewinder oring lasted for years.

sabreguy wrote:Here may be another option

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/product ... ilyId=2083

Same tensile strength but $20.00 cheaper

Always check the Wear factor. I have yet to see a site showing what it is for the chain advertised. Reason why I swear by this spec sheet. http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

This last one I had was a DID 520ERT tensile strength 8,100 Ware Res 430 I expected a year on it and had to adjust it about every 2-3 rides. The DID 520VM thats going on is 8,050 but the wear factor is 3,220.

I 'd much rather spend an extra $40-50 more to get 3-4 years of extra life.

I only get a year out of a sprocket, and when it is shot I replace everything at once.