BannedCR500Riders.com

I am looking for a aftermarket Exhaust Flange O-Ring Type for my 500.

I Called Atomic-22 and Boyesen they don't make them any more and not planning to either.

I called S/H they told me the ones they have will not fit a 450X frame I don't understand that one but They said it willn't fit.

Anyone else make a O-Ring type Exhaust Flange for a CR500 That I can order ASAP.

stock one works much better and handles the vibration 1000 times better, and i hated them o-rings. but dont just take my word for it, buy one of them fancy billet ones and see for yourself

I been doing a lot of reading I going to try the RTV first and see if this works keeping the crud inside the pipe.

100hp honda wrote:stock one works much better and handles the vibration 1000 times better, and i hated them o-rings. but dont just take my word for it, buy one of them fancy billet ones and see for yourself

Yea I found one I purchashed it I going to use it for a example i going to let the machinces at work make me one out of tool steel or something like that.

I most likley will have to write the program for it so it can be CNC out.

your trying to reinvent the wheel. buy a honda one and call it good for the next 10 years. mine is 11 years old and still looks fine

No I not just trying to improve it.
My CR250 had a O-Ring type of Exhaust Flange on it stock it did not leak it was a 1994 OEM it was still on the bike when I sold it last year.
I don't like the Aluminm but if I can make one out of time tested steel thats the way to go.

I RTVed the stock flange as of now but it still shade tree mechanic type fix it will work but there has to be a better way of fixing the known leak at the head pipe.

100hp honda wrote:your trying to reinvent the wheel. buy a honda one and call it good for the next 10 years. mine is 11 years old and still looks fine

ive seen by your other posts that you dont undestand dirtbikes very well. i see the same pattern in this thread, you dont seem to understand. the cr500 exhaust flange is steel, i dont know why you keep mentioning aluminum. yours leaks probly because you didnt put the metal ring back in or maybe the flange is beat to death from years of a loose pipe being on it.......you said your motor was a box of junk parts, so i can only assume everything was near the verge of being worn out. buy a new honda flange and metal ring, put rtv on the fucker and put it together. it will be leak free for many years.

dont feel bad honda02, the leaky exhaust seems to stump alot of people.

I didn't Know Bikes but when I picked up My donner I did not know it was such a POS that everything was worn out As for the exhaust flang there is a better way of fixing it it just getting right, I was told it was running before it went to the inpound yard were I got it from

The person that did my motor is a ex Factory Honda race mechanic he also by first look at the donner thought it was not in bad shape either but after digging into the motor we found out it was a POS.

You can take the easy way out and RTV it or find a better way of fixing it.

I beleive in OEM parts most of the time but there is a better way is just finding it or making it work.

With the mind set just leave things the way there is the never be improvments on anything ever made you mite as well go back to the sqaure wheel.

I work on one off Aircraft every day we experiment on new ways of doing things every day some work good some not so well some we crash and kill pilots but thats how you lean and improve on what you alread have.

With close mind thinking you never get anywhere thers always room for improvemnt as a rule of thumb but you can get to the end of the product life and you just better off starting all over again with some thing new.

100hp honda wrote:dont feel bad honda02, the leaky exhaust seems to stump alot of people.

im not going to reply any more to this. i thought the original design worked fine, thats what ive always used (except for a breif time i used the billet flange with o-rings for bling factor, it didnt work worth a fuck so i put the stocker back on). im the last guy that will tolerate spooge dripping all over my bike, if i had a sealing problem with the stocker i would of modified it accordingly. not sure what your going to accomplish but have fun

100hp honda wrote:im not going to reply any more to this. i thought the original design worked fine, thats what ive always used (except for a breif time i used the billet flange with o-rings for bling factor, it didnt work worth a fuck so i put the stocker back on). im the last guy that will tolerate spooge dripping all over my bike, if i had a sealing problem with the stocker i would of modified it accordingly. not sure what your going to accomplish but have fun

I not looking for the BLING factor just a better way of doing things with steel somewhat like OEM but with O-Rings.

Didn't mean to piss you off.

Billet good for somethings but not for exhaust flanges.
I want my stuff for the long run what going to get me home and what going to last.

I made a 3 o-ring one from steel, larger I.D. and matched the jug to it. The fatty pipe takes an oring at the tip of the flange, the 3 on the manifold, and another at the base. You could eat off the thing its so clean. I have the 03 250 aluminum dogbone hanger on the front of the pipe too, and it sure seems like that U bend moves 1/4" fore + aft at a certain low rpm.

I did some cleaning and measureing last night. I have a new gen 2 PC pipe and almost new FMF gnarly (4 rides). The PC pipe ID was .005 tighter than the FMF. I have what I think is an atomic 22, it's steel. I have the stock one too. Neither shows signs of wear. The 22 is larger, around .004. They both have a taper to them meaning the end that goes into the pipe is smaller.

The 22 leaked with a brand new FMF pipe and 4 new orings, 2 fmf and 2 22's. If it still leaks w/ the STR crank that just went in and the PC pipe. It's going in the trash or for sale. RTV doesn't leak, it's just more of a hassel.

I called Atomic-22 they are out of the Flanges and not planning to make anymore I liked the steel flange they USE TO MAKE.

I picked up A Billet one from a member so I can use it to machine my own out of Steel I hope it works.

I just hate cleaning all that RTV off the stock flange every time you need to pull the pipe O -Rings are much easyer.

And you don't have to wait 24 hours to use the bike once you put the pipe back on like RTV way of doing things.

seanmx57 wrote:I did some cleaning and measureing last night. I have a new gen 2 PC pipe and almost new FMF gnarly (4 rides). The PC pipe ID was .005 tighter than the FMF. I have what I think is an atomic 22, it's steel. I have the stock one too. Neither shows signs of wear. The 22 is larger, around .004. They both have a taper to them meaning the end that goes into the pipe is smaller.

The 22 leaked with a brand new FMF pipe and 4 new orings, 2 fmf and 2 22's. If it still leaks w/ the STR crank that just went in and the PC pipe. It's going in the trash or for sale. RTV doesn't leak, it's just more of a hassel.

The thing I'm wondering about all this is, Are there any High Temp O rings to be had Dump Q for me, but no one ever address' that.

Who has them and whats the link

I bought 20 or so orings for mine a few years ago. they are red and measure about .070 thick. they fit pretty dam tight into the PC pipe and a good fit on the FMF. After VERY few hours they are worn smooth and LEAK.

I mte try some Teflon type rings that mite work I know we use them in aircraft hot section and they seem to last with the heat and vibration of a Jet fighter engines.

I can make just about anything I want with a Water Cutter or M+achine shop just need to find out what going to be the best material for this job I fo ask around someone going to know.