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The exhaust port on the GSS is way bigger than the stock opening, glen sells the modified exhaust manifold but me being the cheapskate I decided to have a hack at mine. I got a pretty much smooth transition now aside from one area at the top of the port where there is still a small difference.

Glen when you do yours do you completly remove the part of the flange that locates into the cylinder? I went as thin as I dared on that lip and its still not big enough, I think if I ground the lip completely off I could smooth in the rest but then wouldnt exhaust sealing and blowing gaskets become an issue?

I ate through 2 grinding tips and ruined my burr tip...... Im also semi deaf as the compressor ran constantly trying to keep up with the die grinder

Before....



The port is about the same size as the gasket!!!



2 of the bits I used..





And after...





You can see how the top part is still off a little...

nice! that thing is gonna haul ballz! you'll be hitting the dunes superman style!

Fall off your wallet, and buy on of those aluminum jobbies.. they cut easier!







( I dont think that little lip will do any harm..)

AlisoBob wrote:Fall off your wallet, and buy on of those aluminum jobbies.. they cut easier!







( I dont think that little lip will do any harm..)

aluminum jobbies? *GULP*. i have a billet one laying around. its laying around for a reason. keep the stock steel one. bob is right, that little lip wont hurt anything. besides you dont want to grind the manifold down so its paper thin

Use carbide bits and oil, things will go way faster..

I phoned Glen today, he is going to do a port, head, and bore for me. Not that radical, as I want it trail friendly. Great guy to talk to. Boy what he says I'll get for power spread and HP is going to make me a happy camper. Maybe I'll even take a trip down you guy's way in the spring and see who is gonna give me a good spanken.

ou812 wrote: Great guy to talk to. .

Yes he is!

ou812 wrote:Use carbide bits and oil, things will go way faster..

Ur almost right.

A course sanding rool, or like we call em, "Tootsie Rolls", works best on that particular piece. That fluted burr in the pic is better suited to wood, but might not be too bad for aluminum, with a heathy shot of bees wax before cutting with it

Keep your stock steel manifold. I have an aluminum (claimed billet) manifold for a quad I have and it's pretty yes, but as the exhaust springs vibrate, they wear into the holes they hook to and will eventually break through. The steel one hogged out will be better. When I send a engine in to get ported, I usually send the exhaust manifold with it so it can be port matched.