91 top end rebuild ?'s
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: April 30th, 2009, 8:51 am
91 top end rebuild ?'s
Hi guys, newbie here. You know that though! I've been lurking around here for awhile, really need some help now!
Last weekend at Sand Mnt., I was about 10 minutes in and hauling butt up a dune when my engine starting clanking (pinging) and before I could reach the top, the engine just stopped. I thought I seized it, but was able to kick it over. It had almost no compression. My thoughts were wasted rings, or cracked/broken piston.
After pulling it apart a couple days ago I found the piston to have verticle scrapes from about 3/4 to the top of the piston spaced about even with the the skirts. So there's like 4 marks on the piston. The rings are ground into the grooves as well (on these marks). The cylinder has the same marks, but not as severe. I can try and post pics tonight if that would help.
I'm trying to figure out what the cause was before I bore and replace the piston. I did not find any broken or foreign peices in the cylinder. Thanks,
Jeff
Last weekend at Sand Mnt., I was about 10 minutes in and hauling butt up a dune when my engine starting clanking (pinging) and before I could reach the top, the engine just stopped. I thought I seized it, but was able to kick it over. It had almost no compression. My thoughts were wasted rings, or cracked/broken piston.
After pulling it apart a couple days ago I found the piston to have verticle scrapes from about 3/4 to the top of the piston spaced about even with the the skirts. So there's like 4 marks on the piston. The rings are ground into the grooves as well (on these marks). The cylinder has the same marks, but not as severe. I can try and post pics tonight if that would help.
I'm trying to figure out what the cause was before I bore and replace the piston. I did not find any broken or foreign peices in the cylinder. Thanks,
Jeff
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: April 30th, 2009, 8:51 am
I could'nt figure out how to attach images this thread, so I uploaded 5 pics into this album.
http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/galler ... ?cat=10801
http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/galler ... ?cat=10801
- iggys-amsoil
- Posts: 3602
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
you were pinging from running lean pull your main jet and take a look at what number it is and report back. also, were you WOT when it started pinging? if not, it could also be the needle taper or clip setting.
in the sand you really want rich jetting because, first off the load the sand puts on the bike, then also because of the extended WOT that you won't see in MX style riding and also, most sand dunes are at low elevation which would also require more fuel.
a bone stock newer style 500 motor should run between a 172 and 178 in the dunes, maybe more. my gen-4 with a bone stock '90 motor and a pwk ran a 175 in the dunes.
good luck dude, and don't forget, if you get a wiseco, don't let your machinist do anything closer that .004" I usually specify .0045" on a wiseco, and find a machinist who will releive the bridge for you as well as chamfer the ports. if you can't get the machinist to releive the bridge, it is simple and we could help you do that yourself.
in the sand you really want rich jetting because, first off the load the sand puts on the bike, then also because of the extended WOT that you won't see in MX style riding and also, most sand dunes are at low elevation which would also require more fuel.
a bone stock newer style 500 motor should run between a 172 and 178 in the dunes, maybe more. my gen-4 with a bone stock '90 motor and a pwk ran a 175 in the dunes.
good luck dude, and don't forget, if you get a wiseco, don't let your machinist do anything closer that .004" I usually specify .0045" on a wiseco, and find a machinist who will releive the bridge for you as well as chamfer the ports. if you can't get the machinist to releive the bridge, it is simple and we could help you do that yourself.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: April 30th, 2009, 8:51 am
Thank you guys for all you're input! I prety much figured it was jetting as well, but wanted to get some more input from CR500 experts. You guys really seem to know your shit about these bikes. I was worried about it maybe being a crank seal, and (hoot270) you kind of have me worried again! How would I check for an air leak?
MAIN JET: is a 170, I didn't check the needle clip postion yet. Any input on where it should be set and what size main to run would be appreciated. I realize every bike is different, but a general set up would atleast get me in a safe zone to run at.
By the way, Sand Mnt. is at 4000ft elevation. This is where I will do most of my riding and simular elevations at. This is my first CR500 and I've only had it for about six months. I've always ridden 2-stroke 250's in the past. So I've got some learning to do with this bike. Thanks again for all the help from everyone!
Jeff
MAIN JET: is a 170, I didn't check the needle clip postion yet. Any input on where it should be set and what size main to run would be appreciated. I realize every bike is different, but a general set up would atleast get me in a safe zone to run at.
By the way, Sand Mnt. is at 4000ft elevation. This is where I will do most of my riding and simular elevations at. This is my first CR500 and I've only had it for about six months. I've always ridden 2-stroke 250's in the past. So I've got some learning to do with this bike. Thanks again for all the help from everyone!
Jeff
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
I alway run a super fat jet that blubbers, then keep stepping down until the blubbering stops. then I know it is safely on the rich side. if you simply go by feel, lean is mean, it will keep feeling faster until it squeeks. I'd drop a 178 in there and see if it blubbers, if it does, then try the 175. 175 seems to be a good all around jet for the 500s.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
- britincali
- Posts: 8207
- Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
- Location: Barstow, CA
Exnav wrote:Here is the what the manual calls out as baseline settings with a stock 38PJ. Obviously these are for moto conditions and not dunacy.
That chart would seize both my bikes solid in 20 mins flat.
Im at 2500 ft and ride in 90 deg f temps all the time and I run a 172 main which is as lean as it will go without pinging constantly. Try running a 165 main at dumont (200-1100ft) on a mild spring day (80) and see how long a bike lasts without melting.
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
165 = squeek, not even half way up compbritincali wrote:Exnav wrote:Here is the what the manual calls out as baseline settings with a stock 38PJ. Obviously these are for moto conditions and not dunacy.
That chart would seize both my bikes solid in 20 mins flat.
Im at 2500 ft and ride in 90 deg f temps all the time and I run a 172 main which is as lean as it will go without pinging constantly. Try running a 165 main at dumont (200-1100ft) on a mild spring day (80) and see how long a bike lasts without melting.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: April 30th, 2009, 8:51 am
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
to check the seals, you cap off the intake and exhaust. a rubber stopped with a wingnut from home depot works for the exhaust, and a freeze plug with a shrader valve attached works for the the intake. you pressurise (not very much), then check for a loss and where the hissing sound si coming from. to check the ign side seal, just remove the flywheel and look for evidence of a leak. if there isn't anything there and you are still losing pressure, inspect the base gasket and case gasket. if it still loses pressure, ti would either have to be the case gasket by the trans, ior the seal. so then you would remove the right engine cover and see if you can norrow down where the hissing comes from.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Do I make my " ...another seized Wiseco" comments now..... or later?
Cast pistons simply dont do this.
The piston isnt drilled, which didnt help...
I think the jetting was prolly' pretty close, it just made some good horsepower, piston got hot and expanded..... too little piston / cylinder clearance.... 4 CORNER SQUEEK!
Cast pistons simply dont do this.
The piston isnt drilled, which didnt help...
I think the jetting was prolly' pretty close, it just made some good horsepower, piston got hot and expanded..... too little piston / cylinder clearance.... 4 CORNER SQUEEK!
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
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- Joined: June 7th, 2008, 12:04 am
http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/board/ ... .php?t=606Coolidge wrote:Where is GSS located?