BannedCR500Riders.com

ok, yesterday it wouldnt start and i found out the crank was flooded, flipped it upside down and bam, fired right up. went back 10min later and same problem i think. i called it a night. so today i flipped it upsided down again and fuel came out just like before. but this time it wont start, i even tried some starting fluid but no luck. i checked and i have spark but i think these br8es/br8eg/niridium plugs i have are junk. ive tried all 3 and nothing. is there a better plug out there? i dont really know what to do, im gunna flip it upside down again but would like to try with a fresh plug so i wanna know if theres a better one i could get before i go out.

i got fuel, spark, and compression. im thinking a better plug would help with possibly more spark

what do you guys think?

thanks

pull your pipe, and fix your carb. also you should shut off the gas after you ride. incase you have the problem that you have right now

Any of the plugs you mentioned work fine. Get in the habit of turning off the fuel when leaving the bike, as the needle atttached the the float can get worn over time due to the vibes, and it wont seal properly.... this might be the cause of the flooding.

Carb issues are easy to fix, and the bike should fire up pretty easy after that..

i turn the gas off ussually, just forgot that one time.

im gunna go pull the carb off

Look for wear like this...



< Photo stolen from Dr. Edge without permission....>

pull your pipe, its prob, full of gas

huh, so i tipped it over again and this time a ton of gas came out. i was gunna pull the carb but id figure i would try to start it one more time. cleaned the plug off and put it in and left the gas off. gave it 1 sissy kick and then a real kick that wasnt even that good, it was more like half a kick but she fired. i turned the gas back on and went around the block. when i put it away i turned the gas off and let it idle for a few seconds and then shut it down.

i bet my float needle looks like the one in that picture. i only want to pull the carb once so im gunna order a bunch of pilot jets so i dont have to find out what one i have in there now, also ill order a new float needle.

there is black spooge on the silencer and black smoke on the fender so im pretty sure the pilot is too big from an article i read over on the non-banned site. also it stumbles for a second when i hit the throttle, the response is poor. also it seems like i have gobs of low end power but it doesnt really scream up top

where can i buy the jets at?

thanks

John wrote:also it seems like i have gobs of low end power but it doesnt really scream up top

Yup. You bought a CR500 alright.

thats what i was thinking lol

what would some porting do for that? and whos a good eninge builder for cr500's btw?

Porting won't change that. You'd be able to get it to pull harder on top, but scream? No. Too much metal moving too far to "scream". You can get some more RPM's out of it if you lighten the crank, but it will never scream.

I'd like to suggest that pulling the carb is no big deal, and you should get used to pulling it occasionally. You can also loosen the clamps, rotate the carb, and remove the float bowl, pilot jet, main, float and float jet etc., for a smaller amount of work. You can also change the main jet by rotating the carb and only removing the bottom bowl plug thingy.

Ported&Polished wrote:I'd like to suggest that pulling the carb is no big deal, and you should get used to pulling it occasionally. You can also loosen the clamps, rotate the carb, and remove the float bowl, pilot jet, main, float and float jet etc., for a smaller amount of work. You can also change the main jet by rotating the carb and only removing the bottom bowl plug thingy.

i never thought of rotating it, thanks

Ported&Polished wrote:I'd like to suggest that pulling the carb is no big deal, and you should get used to pulling it occasionally. You can also loosen the clamps, rotate the carb, and remove the float bowl, pilot jet, main, float and float jet etc., for a smaller amount of work. You can also change the main jet by rotating the carb and only removing the bottom bowl plug thingy.

I'll second that. Carbs are simple to work on. Only a couple moving parts. Adjusting them is the PITA. Dive in man.

Well what do you know, I am good for something!

Just watch that the pin that holds the floats does not fall out and get lost. But you need to remove your carb completely and set the float height correctly.

Two idiots giving the same advice doesn't mean it's good advice.

ou812 wrote:But you need to remove your carb completely and set the float height correctly.

How EXACTLY do you do this? The service manual makes no sense to me on this one. Neither does any of the advice I've been given.

This is one thing I'd like to see a howto video of.

MojoScojo wrote:

ou812 wrote:But you need to remove your carb completely and set the float height correctly.

How EXACTLY do you do this? The service manual makes no sense to me on this one. Neither does any of the advice I've been given.

This is one thing I'd like to see a howto video of.

yeah i dont know how to set the height correctly either, i know how to change it though

The float height is not real critical..

With all the bouncing, + G's... - G's.. uphill, down hill, backflipping, and whips that I do...




If its close, its fine. I'll post a page from the manual, and transcribe it in "Hoon" for the boys....

ou812 wrote:Just watch that the pin that holds the floats does not fall out and get lost. But you need to remove your carb completely and set the float height correctly.

Yeah ya better do that too. Sense the bike is new to you. and removing the carb won't have to be done again......at least for a while.

With all the bouncing, + G's... - G's.. uphill, down hill, backflipping, and whips that I do...

Can we get some photos of those backflips?

Any way the manual really does not address the issue correctly. The best way is with the carb off and a fuel line attached, give her a nice little blow job, say at 1 to 2 pounds slowly lift the float , it should shut off just as the float come level to the carb body side, or just very slightly before, that is the best way. To measure it as the manual say's is just plain bunk.

Or just keep bending the tab up and down till ya get something ya like

ou812 wrote:

With all the bouncing, + G's... - G's.. uphill, down hill, backflipping, and whips that I do...

Can we get some photos of those backflips?

Any way the manual really does not address the issue correctly. The best way is with the carb off and a fuel line attached, give her a nice little blow job, say at 1 to 2 pounds slowly lift the float , it should shut off just as the float come level to the carb body side, or just very slightly before, that is the best way. To measure it as the manual say's is just plain bunk.

Or just keep bending the tab up and down till ya get something ya like

Thats pretty much the way I do it

this time it started back up i think 3 or 4 times without flooding, but now its flooded again. i defiantly think the float needle is worn

where can i buy a new one? also need new pilot jets

Does your bike run well when it fires up? Im beginning to think you have a toast crank seal...

John, Brit may know what he is talking about he works with Tosted parts all the time