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Replacing Cracked Left Case
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 8:31 am
by CR500PHIL
I read the forums on splitting cases. My question is how difficult is it to replace a cracked stator side case? I mean just to tip the motor on it side and replace the stator side case without removing the transmission etc. Is this possible? Is there a way to remove the stator without modifying timing? Pitfalls? Special tools? I know flywheel puller. When you remove the stator side case will everything inside fall together or stay in place so you can just fit the new case on?
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 8:43 am
by dannygraves
you can remove that side without taking the trans all apart. just remove the jug and sprocket and flywheel, remove all bolts and hookup balancer puller to split.
Me personally, I like to repair the cases so as not to have to spend $$$ on a new case. where is the crack?
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 9:14 am
by HrcRacing
Be sure to look for washers that may have stuck to the left side case bearings. Other than that, the transmission gears should stay basically intact.
Best of luck.
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:15 am
by south central hoon
dannygraves wrote:you can remove that side without taking the trans all apart. just remove the jug and sprocket and flywheel, remove all bolts and hookup balancer puller to split.
Me personally, I like to repair the cases so as not to have to spend $$$ on a new case. where is the crack?
JB baby.
Cracked Case
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:31 am
by CR500PHIL
dannygraves wrote:you can remove that side without taking the trans all apart. just remove the jug and sprocket and flywheel, remove all bolts and hookup balancer puller to split.
Me personally, I like to repair the cases so as not to have to spend $$$ on a new case. where is the crack?
The crack is right in front on the sprocket - it has been repaired with JB Weld and held for a long time. Perhaps I just need to remove the JB Weld and redo it. I notice a small weep in it now that the previous owner plugged with silicone. This is the reason I got the motor cheap - all else is great.
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:38 am
by dannygraves
dude, I'd just fix it and keep riding. watch you'll replace the case for $$$ and lose a chain and be in the same boat again
I personally actually weld up my cases for repaid, but that spot might be easier to JB.
I have 2 motors where some piston frags damaged the cases and I welded them up just fine

Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:43 am
by CR500PHIL
dannygraves wrote:dude, I'd just fix it and keep riding. watch you'll replace the case for $$$ and lose a chain and be in the same boat again
I personally actually weld up my cases for repaid, but that spot might be easier to JB.
I have 2 motors where some piston frags damaged the cases and I welded them up just fine

With my luck you are probably correct - cheaper and easier too. Besides I want to spend money on the rest of the conversion at this point.

Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:48 am
by dannygraves
yup
I always forget when I'm doign a conversion about the little things that nickel and dime you like chain, sprockets, bars, throttle tube, levers, tires/tubes, etc.etc.
Costs
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 10:51 am
by CR500PHIL
dannygraves wrote:yup
I always forget when I'm doign a conversion about the little things that nickel and dime you like chain, sprockets, bars, throttle tube, levers, tires/tubes, etc.etc.
Before I ever got a motor and started and I started collecting things of that nature - Pro Tapers, throttle, new pegs, Renthal Gold oring etc but I am sure the cost will add up when the bike comes together.
Posted: November 7th, 2008, 8:07 pm
by nmdesertrider
the cases are pretty good quality casting material and weld up really easily.
fixing cases
Posted: November 9th, 2008, 9:19 am
by kball1313
Welding is my first choice, as the case material is of decent quality. For a tougher spot like that where the failure isn't a big chunk i'd use *belzona.*
I can't tell you how good this stuff is and once it's cured, is harder than steel. I've seen it used in the most extreme applications with no problems, ie-3500hp 16cyl. diesel engine blocks. Anything from cracked water jackets to pitted cyl. liner registers. I've used it personally and this stuff makes JB look like silly putty. I let it cure partially, then work the area to roughly how you want it. Once set up do the final grinding/contouring.
http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx