BannedCR500Riders.com

I've heard people talk about issues w/adapting air boots.
Some claim X boots fits Y bikes with Z air boxes. Duct tape, silicone, PVC pipe, heat guns and even putting a boot inside a boot. I don't have the luxury of keeping spare bikes/parts laying around, hell, I don't even have a heat gun.
I don't mind spending $$$$ on new parts, but I hate to order new stuff not knowing if it'll work or not....and I hate waiting a week for UPS to show up. A piece of scrap from the pile and a coulpe hour's time is all it cost me.

Some may think it's not the way to go, but it's my version of fixing a problem. There's plenty of shock clearance and the boot plugs straight into the carb. Everything is secure even w/o clamps. I thought I had an issue w/the throttle cable, but it clears the frame fine.

Just need to clean up the corners.

Thanks,
Gene.

click on a pic for more pics:

Nice job Gene! I built my best stuff because I had more time than money hoon on brother!

Proof again that there's more than one way to skin a cat. Nice.

Where there's a will, there's a way !!!

That's friggin sweet!

How do you plan on bolting it up to the cylinder though since the surface where your intake flange bolts to the wedge is angled & not sqaure with the bolt holes on the cylinder

I think if you look at the first pic, you can see where he ha shaved a little off the carb side holes to square it up.

TYSTYX wrote:Where there's a mill, there's a way !!!

Fixed it for you.

Nice job.

So true....

Mad Dog wrote:

TYSTYX wrote:Where there's a mill, there's a way !!!

Fixed it for you.

Nice job.

Words of truth.

I can machine shallow, angled pockets into the carb flange for the left 2 mount holes.
The 2 center bolts line up fine, just need to make a pair of wedged washers.
The other 2 wedge-to-cylinder mounts will be a mixture of 6mm studs, nuts, bolts and captured nuts.

The hard part is done, mounting the thing is the least of my worries.

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Mad Dog wrote:

TYSTYX wrote:Where there's a mill, there's a way !!!

Fixed it for you.

Nice job.

That's what this site is all about. Nice job, good thinking. Anybody want to put that on a CAD file? What about a larger spacer for the reed cage, on a CAD file, to close the gap between the airboot and the carb?

I thought about that. A CNC machine would be sweet....could punch them out 10 at a time. I'm sure there's differences between gens and models, so 1 design might not work on all conversions.
You'd have some loss of crank case pressure if the cage was spaced out.

This is my first conversion, and I can say it's been a learning experience. One problem down, more issues to go.
I just can't wait to hear the damb thing run.

Did it affect the way the bike runs.What meen is did you gain or lose any power?

Looks good Gene!

i can weld anything but you machinist guys are frickin' badass (you too TeemTrubble) ...... nice work man!

Thanks!!!

So that's an 85-88 cyl, is that a cr250 frame? I didn't realize there was so much length between the boot and carb, I'm going to tackle my 02 250 as soon as the snow hits the ground, unless this dude that wants my camaro swaps his 04 450 for it.

'86....'01 125.
That's what it took (me) to make it work. The carb is at the perfect angle and the air boot is the correct length. Easier for me to do that than having to track down parts that "may" fit and might have shock clearance.

What year Camaro???

nice work

zorak-2 wrote:Did it affect the way the bike runs.What meen is did you gain or lose any power?

I'm guessing that you may get more on the bottom end because of the longer intake runner and a more complete air fuel mixture This is what carb spacers on V8 engines are supposed to do so this is where I get my theory from.
BTW nice work Gene!

The camaro is a 68, I got it for If nothing else to make some money on it. There wasn't a bolt in the car. A kid got it as a project, took it apart, his dad said it was going to take him too long to put it together and bought him a restored roller, so I got the car for next to nothing, he even stored it for a year and delivered it n/c while I got moved and a shop ready.




I'd tried some spacers on the reed of my '88 jug, with absolute stock ports I found that between the jug and the reed .125 made little to no difference, .500 gave low end but stole top end, .380 was decent all arround.

With the spacer between the boot and the reed it made throttle response lazy, and would add lowend power, but wouldn't let you ring it out for topend.no matter what width.

I'm interested in hearing how this one effects the engine.

I'll polish the port during final assembly. It might not be a bad idea to cc the runner and keep that info in the note book.

Thanks again for the complements.