BannedCR500Riders.com

Went out Friday, was running fine and then started sputtering at low RPM's heading back to truck it died and would not start. Sat for a bit and fired right up, brought it home. Yesterday I threw a new plug in it, not sure how bu the old was gapped about .037 Stuck in the new gapped at .024, made one soft kick and was going for the 2nd and it just fired right up easy as all hell. Ran crisp, zipped down the street no issues. Went to start it a short time later and was just getting back fires, after 3 or 4 it fired up ran fine. This morning, getting ready to go riding, went to start and it just back fired. Wore myself on that and threw in a new plug, fired up ran fine and once again. Shut it down and get the 3 or 4 back fires and then it will start.

Sound like an ignition box or coil problem to me. Could also be a bad plug cap, loose wire, faulty kill switch

Get the multimeter out.

What does the plug look like?

Plug is clean in color but gassy right after I shut it down on idle and garage revs.

All tests on ignition checked out with in range! Kill switch is fine as well.

Just got thru cleaning the carb and put the 50 pilot back in along with a clean (not new plug). Both the carb and plug were out of the engine for about a hour.

Turned on gas, choke and it fired on the first soft kick. Killed the choke and ran for a half a minute and shut it down. Once again a back fire or two even on easy kicks and fire up with agressive kicks.

It has to be fuel related, maybe I just need to suck it up and get a new PWK from John?

hows the float level? and the that little needle valve in there?

ISBB wrote:hows the float level? and the that little needle valve in there?

The rubber on the needle looks good, I have a general idea on how to set the float level and the spec, but the manual does not show the how too. I will have to find a sticky somewhere with pics and check it out. Sat for a hour, went out first easy kick it fired...

Fuck this, I am just gonna starve this week and getting me a new carb.

im saving up too

I talked to a buddy of mine who was a tuner on a shifter-kart team and he said it sounded like either the float level or pilot jet (too fat).

It sounds like a fuel issue...

HrcRacing wrote:I talked to a buddy of mine who was a tuner on a shifter-kart team and he said it sounded like either the float level or pilot jet (too fat).

Thanks Robert... Gonna pull the carb tomorrow after work and attempt to adjust the float. Other then that I am done with this PJ, just gonna go with new spec 39PWK and hope for the best. If that does not work, then its rebuild time!!! And having the new carb on the fresh rebuild will be perfect!

The 39mm PWK is really the way to go.

Before you send money on a carb. I bet the stator has gone bad. I had a bike do that, stator would get hot and the bike would die. Just long enough to put a new plug in. Fired up every time then die when I got to the end of the block.

Oh and I gap my plugs at .030.

Yup, electrics are like that....

iggys-amsoil wrote:Before you send money on a carb. I bet the stator has gone bad. I had a bike do that, stator would get hot and the bike would die. Just long enough to put a new plug in. Fired up every time then die when I got to the end of the block.

Oh and I gap my plugs at .030.

Have not had it die on my since Friday when I added the new plug, just hard starting with the backfiring. Since the new plug, it has started with some real easy kicks (like it should) a few times others take my whole weight on the kicker. Ran the ignition tests twice with the multi-meter, both were identical readings. No matter what I need a new carb, the one I have is a 92 model; stripped bowl screws, slide looks worn, the whole works. I think I am just wasting time with anything until I get a new one.

eyesky2002 wrote:

iggys-amsoil wrote:Before you send money on a carb. I bet the stator has gone bad. I had a bike do that, stator would get hot and the bike would die. Just long enough to put a new plug in. Fired up every time then die when I got to the end of the block.

Oh and I gap my plugs at .030.

Ran the ignition tests twice with the multi-meter, both were identical readings.

Did you check it cold and hot? My wife's car starter went out recently. When it was cold, started right up. When it was hot, it was like someone stole the battery.

yup, sounds like my '86 when the stator coil went bad...

HrcRacing wrote:
Did you check it cold and hot? My wife's car starter went out recently. When it was cold, started right up. When it was hot, it was like someone stole the battery.

Yep tested them cold while the carb was out, fired first easy kick; ran till warm. Shut it down and tested again, same readings.

backfiring was common on the older bikes (my '85 did it quit a few times), not sure why but my guess is something to do with timing in the cdi box. however, i dont recall ever hearing a good running newer year motor backfire. few things can cause backfire, one of them is spark plug not firing at correct time....99% people over look the air gap and possible loose flywheel nut or stripped keyway

100hp honda wrote:99% people over look the air gap and possible loose flywheel nut or stripped keyway

Flywheel is tight, need to get a puller before I can check the key

Just tried to start, got 2 backfires; pulled the front number plate and checked the electronics and all tested with in range.

I am frustrated with this, want to go roosting!!!

Spend $200.00 on a carb or $300 on electronics, either way it is just a guess game and fucked up!

Well, partially a guessing game. You know that you need the carb so, to me, that parts a no-brainer.

Starve for a week (J/K), buy the PWK and eliminate that as the source or, hopefully, fix the fuckin' problem.

PS: Are you disconnecting the kill switch to eliminate that?

HrcRacing wrote:Well, partially a guessing game. You know that you need the carb so, to me, that parts a no-brainer.

Starve for a week (J/K), buy the PWK and eliminate that as the source or, hopefully, fix the fuckin' problem.

Lol... Thanks Robert that is about all I can do, gonna call Sudco later today!

HrcRacing wrote:
PS: Are you disconnecting the kill switch to eliminate that?

Yep..

whats your airgap ? .020, .030, .040 ? like i said, alot of people dont know what it is or how to check it

100hp honda wrote:whats your airgap ? .020, .030, .040 ? like i said, alot of people dont know what it is or how to check it

What is it and how do you check it?

HrcRacing wrote:

100hp honda wrote:whats your airgap ? .020, .030, .040 ? like i said, alot of people dont know what it is or how to check it

What is it and how do you check it?

x2

Nothing about it in the service manual. Are we talking the gap between the flywheel and the pickup that triggers the spark?