I am getting mixed messages depending on who I talk to so I am back to the knowledge base of the board
before I ship the suspension off to be redone.....
some folks are telling me to spring them a bit on the heavy side and make up for it with lighter valving...the thinking apparently being (from what I gather) you will be in the upper end of your suspension...therefore using most of the available travel and have alot of room for dampening...and a smooooth ride....if I remember right?
then Im also hearing if your valving is "stiff" to go to a lighter spring to compensate for it....maybe this is just a cheaper way to try to smooth it out?
Im so confused
what say yee that ride the aluminum frame 500s?
stiffer spring and "lighter" valving
or the other way around or ??????
There is only one correct spring rate...... and thats the one that positions the bike correctly with YOU on it.
The most commonlyl suggested position is 4" of sag in the rear, and 20% of the stroke up front.
Damping ( valving) is use related...
Plush for Woods and recreational riding.
Plush, and then progressivly stiffer for Desert...
etc..etc...
Getting the right springs is MANDATORY, then you wil be surprized what you can do by servicing your suspension , and changing the weight of the oil.
Ported / Polished was about to hand over $300 for a fork revalve.... instead he serviced it him self, and went up on the oil viscosity...... and really liked the result.
Total cost? $15
What kind of terrain do you ride most?
Last edited by AlisoBob on July 17th, 2008, 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
AlisoBob wrote:There is only one correct spring rate...... and thats the one that positions the bike correctly with YOU on it.
The most commonlyl suggested position is 4" of sag in the rear, and 20% of the stroke up front.
Damping ( valving) is use related...
Plush for Woods and recreational riding.
Plush, and then progressivly stiffer for Desert...
etc..etc...
Getting the right springs is MANDATORY, then you wil be surprized what you can do by servicing your suspension , and changing the weight of the oil.
Ported / Polished was about to hand over $300 for a fork revalve.... instead he serviced it him self, and went up on the oil viscosity...... and really liked the result.
Total cost? $15
What kind of terrain do you ride most?
I mainly desert race and mountain trail ride..I want premium suspension for the desert trail woops and I am thinking I should be able to back off the dampening for mountain trails....Hopefully.
now.
if you are going to send your suspension off to get it worked on how in the hell do you end up with the right springs and dampening????
do you just end up sending it back untlil its right???
I know one guy who has sent his back to factory works 3 times and he is still not happy with it!
If you send it away you are taking somewhat of a risk. This can be mitigated by selecting a shop that a) knows where you ride b) will offer a re-do for free and c) being real honest about your capabilities. I stopped by Grant Langston's place and had my WR suspension re-done for SoCal GP's and motocross. They did my race sag with me actually on the bike and therefore confirmed that the suspension rate was correct. In practice the valving turned out to be a little stiff but after a few clicks it was great. They offered to make adjustments if it wasn't right. If there's one shop that comes up regularly for off-road and desert, it is Precision Concepts.
If you have the time and skill, I would change your oil, put springs in based on Race Tech's recommendations, and then play with the clickers and oil height. But don't chase your tail if something feels wrong. Only then would a re-valve be called for.
Dakota Boy wrote:RaceTech's website has a great "spring-rate calculator" function. I used it, and it was right on the mark for me.
I have tried their calculator....I plan to upgrade my tank to a clarke and my motor is 7 lbs heavier than the stock 250 engine (from what I hear)
so I guess I need to put my weight in 7lbs heavier than real and put in for the oversize tank and just go with it........
redrocket190 wrote:If you send it away you are taking somewhat of a risk. This can be mitigated by selecting a shop that a) knows where you ride b) will offer a re-do for free and c) being real honest about your capabilities. I stopped by Grant Langston's place and had my WR suspension re-done for SoCal GP's and motocross. They did my race sag with me actually on the bike and therefore confirmed that the suspension rate was correct. In practice the valving turned out to be a little stiff but after a few clicks it was great. They offered to make adjustments if it wasn't right. If there's one shop that comes up regularly for off-road and desert, it is Precision Concepts.
If you have the time and skill, I would change your oil, put springs in based on Race Tech's recommendations, and then play with the clickers and oil height. But don't chase your tail if something feels wrong. Only then would a re-valve be called for.
I have yet to get inside a set of forks...makes me a bit nervous, I would hate to screw something up. I have been considering doing my own springs and if that doesnt do it then ship it off....but I havent decided the best course of action yet.
I do know if I ship them off I want a guarantee...if Im not happy with them I want them fixed.
thats my biggest hesitation, I dont want to drop cash and not get what Im after...
thanks for your input!
