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Bigger is better baybee









I had to cut extra threads as the nuts would have bottomed out, now all Ive gotta do is the other 6 and drill out head and gasket. Should be good for 45ftlbs and no more blown gaskets

Im probably gonna shoten them a bit also to save my hands when plug swapping.

I see two probelms.

1). The bigger stud means less surface area for gasket seal.

2). Bigger holes in the head also increase post torque distortion. Make sure you have it torque plate honed again!!

Did you try torquing the exsisting studs at a higher rate?? I bet you could get some chromolly studs from ARP that are the same size as stock and saved much time and money!!

have you broken head studs ? why ?

I know some one with an O ring head

M.F.D.B. wrote:I see two probelms.

1). The bigger stud means less surface area for gasket seal.

!!

If you look at the barrel it already has a 10mm hole with a gap around the edges, theres no sealing going on there so as far as surface area it will be the same as stock.

Glen is doing the bore so it will be tq plated.

What do you think the chances are of ARP having short headstuds that are 8mm on one end and 10mm on the other????

He pushed a gasket, so instead of putting a new one on he figured he'd grab some Big Block Chevy main studs... hahahahaha

whats wrong with stock ?

The last time I did the gasket I tqed the head to 30 ftlbs, I dont think the stockers would take much more.


And yes J it blew the gasket last time at dumont.

lewisclan wrote:whats wrong with stock ?

I dont want it to keep blowing gaskets and so far this mod has cost me $7.

britincali wrote:
If you look at the barrel it already has a 10mm hole with a gap around the edges, theres no sealing going on there so as far as surface area it will be the same as stock.

So you didnt have to drill the hole any bigger??

britincali wrote: Glen is doing the bore so it will be tq plated.

Does he have a plate with holes that size??

britincali wrote: What do you think the chances are of ARP having short headstuds that are 8mm on one end and 10mm on the other????

Prolly pretty good, did you check?? Theres TONS of companies out there...

Jay do you have problems running the bottle on stock gaskets?? Also, Britt, do you think the gasket might be the problem?? Most people use a copper gasket on high compression/boost/NOS apps...

I saw some copper gaskets on ebay that look solid, $20, go for it brit!

If you look at the stock headstud its 10mm on the barrel side and 8mm on the head side, the base studs thread straight into the barrel no issues.


I dint want to go into specialy made copper gaskets and overall i think this is the easier cheaper way to go, I dont think its gonna blow anymore gaskets when TQed to 45ftlbs.

Im gonna call glen but seeing as it was his idea to go with the bigger studs im pretty sure he has a plate to accomodate.

This wasnt by any means my idea glen at GSS said hes done it to a few of the hillclimb motors, I was gonna have him do it when I dropped the barrel off but I was bored this morning and figured Id give it a shot

dannygraves wrote:I saw some copper gaskets on ebay that look solid, $20, go for it brit!

Linkypoo danny

Well i'd be willing to bet Glen does this because he uses copper gaskets which usually require higher torque numbers to compress. I am not convinced using a stock gasket at ANY torque is going to stop it from failing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CR ... .m20.l1116

M.F.D.B. wrote: I am not convinced useing as stock gasket at ANY torque is going to stop it from failing...

A lot of old tractors (30+:1 compression)use single layer steel gaskets and they dont leak BUT they are TQed to 90ft lbs. Im a firm believer in cranking things down

dannygraves wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CR ... .m20.l1116

Ill ask glen about them

my old lincolns head bolts were torqued to 105! Talk about a bitch to remove 40 years later!

britincali wrote:

M.F.D.B. wrote: I am not convinced useing as stock gasket at ANY torque is going to stop it from failing...

A lot of old tractors (30+:1 compression)use single layer steel gaskets and they dont leak BUT they are TQed to 90ft lbs. Im a firm believer in cranking things down

This coming from a guy who torques NOTHING but his head studs?? LOL I torque my MOTOR MOUNTS and reed cage!!

How do you plan to enlarge the gasket holes without fukking the gasket??

dannygraves wrote:my old lincolns head bolts were torqued to 105! Talk about a bitch to remove 40 years later!

I'd break my shoulders...

torque values are overrated, if you have wrenched long enough, you can feel when you are getting close to the yield point or tell based on gasket bulge...Freaken MFDB called to ask me the center case values, I told him "until it feels right" He thought I was joking

M.F.D.B. wrote:

dannygraves wrote:my old lincolns head bolts were torqued to 105! Talk about a bitch to remove 40 years later!

I'd break my shoulders...

HAHAHA, your arm woulkd stay attached to the breaker bar.
When I was taking that apart, I was 17 and 150lbs wet, I had to add 2 more feet of cheater to the breaker bar to break those SOBs loose!

Exactly...

Just tighten the bolt till it comes LOOSE then back it off a 1/4 turn...

dannygraves wrote:I had to add 20 more feet of cheater to the breaker bar to break those SOBs loose!

You are lucky your tools held up!!