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can you run one? I would think it would help you put your jetting perfect. or is this a overkill? just my crazy brain at work. lol

Yea you can run one.

The two stroke oil will only affect the sensor if its running rich as hell and fouls it out, then its $100+ to replace it.

it would put your jetting right on correct? or tell you where to put it rather.

Yup, Ive had one for about 3 years in the truck.

http://www.widebandcommander.com/


I consider it a safety precaution against a lean meltdown.

aloha450x wrote:it would put your jetting right on correct? or tell you where to put it rather.

No

could you please elaborate bob?

learn to know your motor by sound and feel and check the plug if you need to. hooking up sensors and gauges is waste of money and time if you ask me. if running gasoline, these motors have a HUGE window where they will run just fine. if you were using methanol you might want some assistance from a gauge, but most guys ive seen running meth use EGT not AIR/FUEL

aloha450x wrote:could you please elaborate bob?

It wont do anything for your jetting or tell you where to put it.

It wil however tell you exactly what AF ratio you are running so you can adjust the jetting.

no disrespect to aloha450 but it hit me what hes trying to do- he wants a gauge/contraption that will take the human element out of tuning the bike. these bikes aint like a new car that automatically adjusts timing and air/fuel mixtures. regardless of what kind of gauge you install- temp, egt, air/fuel....the gauge does not make the adjustments for you, it simply alerts you to a problem and YOU have to know where to make the adjustment- if you dont understand how the motor works in the first place, then 1000 diferent gauges aint going to help you out

Bob gave me some damn good advise when i first got my bike.. roughly translated.. "if it runs good dont mess with it". meaning if the son of a bitch throws roost and runs smooth who cares what the jetting is since its obviously working, carbs are ancient and simple in design and will never be as exact as F.I but they get the job done quite well for what we use them for. trying to get it 100% dialed in is a wild goose chase and effort can be spent elswhere.

Once you ride and "learn" your bike you wont need any little gizmo to tell you you need to drop the clip or bump the slow jet up one. seat time is where its at, this is something im learning still as well, the more i ride the more i learn.. kinda like going to school... but fun.

I completely understand how it works. and I was just saying it would help you dial it in perfect. I relise that a sensor and guage is just that and will not make any adjustments for ya. if you install a wideband and start the bike and the guage is reading say 15. that tells ya your running a bit lean so go up on the pilot one or two sizes. so change the pilot until the bike is close to 14.7. I think 14 would be better. little rich is better. then take the bike for a ride and open her up and see what the a/f mixture is running a wfo. then adjust as needed. I just asked if it would work better than the old school way. and like I said it was just and idea.

It aint as easy as just tuning to stioch (14.7:1), most motors tend to be a little rich when under load otherwise they will detonate or ping. My truck for example works best around 11.8-12:1 anything leaner than that and it will ping under load and boost.

You would have to find out at wwhat AF ration the bike runs best at under load and then tune using that as a baseline, I have no idea how rich these bikes like to be.

bigjay wrote:Bob gave me some damn good advise when i first got my bike.. roughly translated.. "if it runs good dont mess with it". meaning if the son of a bitch throws roost and runs smooth who cares what the jetting is since its obviously working, carbs are ancient and simple in design and will never be as exact as F.I but they get the job done quite well for what we use them for. trying to get it 100% dialed in is a wild goose chase and effort can be spent elswhere.

Once you ride and "learn" your bike you wont need any little gizmo to tell you you need to drop the clip or bump the slow jet up one. seat time is where its at, this is something im learning still as well, the more i ride the more i learn.. kinda like going to school... but fun.

i think this dude said it the best

if it runs half way decent then leave the fawker alone and ride it

true just thinking out loud. lol thanks guys for humoring my crazy ideas.

Generally , you start riding early in the morning (when its cold), and end in the afternoon ( when its hot).

The staging area might be at 2,000', and the turnaround spot might be 6,000'.

And you think with a wideband you can have a perfectly tuned bike under condition extremes like this?

Our bikes are 2 strokes... That means that for the majority of the time... BOTH the intake AND exhaust ports are uncovered.

Air and fuel are going every which way.. including out the pipe and past the sensor.

The sensor has no idea of the load, exhaust reversion, or other factors.

Coupled to that is the fact a two stroke engine has a "probability of combustion" ratio of maybe 60% when not under load.

Listen to Jay...he nailed it.

Wideband sensors are expensive and you would be going through a few a week...if you want to get "professional" get a pyro...

If you arnt already on a dyno, you have no bidness using O2's and pyro's...

Find a good dyno tuner who has a gas analyzer (has a butt sniffer like a smog machine) like the guy I use and get a warm fuzzy feeling and bragging rights, otherwise.........

SHUT UP AND RIDE!!! hahahaha

haha if wish i could ride. finishing my build. that explains all the left field question. if i cant ride im thinking of riding.