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What are you guys doing to seal up exhaust at the head and the silencer?
Using the stock steel flange, billet flange or other?
Using RTV to seal or none or other?
If using a sealant like RTV, how hard is it to take apart?

ultra copper rtv spread on thick!
taking apart isn't too bad, then you peal the rest off of both surfaces.

I use the OEM flange with the steel bands. Out back I use the original rubber booty as well. On each end I smear some high temp RTV on the appropriate part as to not impede exhaust flow (as it tends to goop out as you assemble). I've never...I mean NEVER had a leak or otherwise spooge problem. Correction, I just recently discovered a small carbon smear under the manifold. But that was probably the mechanics fault

mick said it well. oem metal flange with black rtv and all 4 springs, black rtv and the rubber boot on the silencer joint, i also put 2 zip ties on the rubber boot to hold them tight even more, i never had a leak on pipe or silencer yet. copper or red or even grey rtv can also be used. i tried the billet manifold and had alot of sealing problems, thats when i went back to stock set up, no problem since

I only use the copper because its rated to handle higher temps..

Not done it on the CR500R, but on the older bike been using Yamabond for some time. Bit messy, but effective.

I use bathroom caulk, its not melted off yet

Ultra copper works well for me too.

I USE THE CHEEPEST silicone I can get at both ends & let it set for 24 hrs no leaks and its easy to pull apart

I use the grey high temp silly cone. I use stock everything as well, and wiggle check it often.

Ok I got a question....


Whats the deal with "hi temp" silicone???? Ive never seen "low temp" silicone and for that matter Ive never seen it melt.

I think all the diff colours and bottles are just a way of getting a crapload more cash for bathroom caulk.

They put metal powders in the silly, not sure how that is supposed to help. I would think it would only hinder.

FYI DONT use Chamber Seal, its worthless AND messy as fook to remove after it fails (about 10 seconds after application)...

britincali wrote:Ok I got a question....


Whats the deal with "hi temp" silicone???? Ive never seen "low temp" silicone and for that matter Ive never seen it melt.

I think all the diff colours and bottles are just a way of getting a crapload more cash for bathroom caulk.

Chris, the Marketing Department called with a job opening.

the ultra copper is supposed to transfer heat better, just like the copper spray a gasket. I think by doing so, it absorbs less heat, but I don't know, I use it and it works...
of coarse heat rating are stupid, I used that 1200* header paint on the starions cutom header and it burned off and only left the white porcelain, which actually ended up looking really cool. Although, now that I think about it, I got EGTs well over 1200*

permatex used to make a non "high heat" gasket stuff, it wasn't silicone and smelled nasty. I used it on my go-cart as a kid and it doesn't hold up to gas well at all either, the motor ended up sucking it in they stopped selling that stuff and only sell the high heat stuff now, since it works better in every application.

This is what I've been using. Also, when the rubber piece that covers the silencer/pipe junction splits, I cut out a section of an old innertube, wrap it around the junction, and tywrap it in place. After a while, it will dry out and have to be replaced but usually lasts for several months.

what about normal silicone roof and gutter,try burn it with a oxy,so try that ?but i have used it and it worked,make it really clean before applying or use ultra copper,witch has a oil ressistance

Bazooka bubble gum works great and you'll always have a snack incase you get stuck out somewhere.

kanecr50094 wrote: oil ressistance

Thats the key...

I have never had ANY silcone fail so I use the cheep stuff from home Depot