BannedCR500Riders.com

i got to actually ride my bike today.. not just 15-20 mins, i was on it for an hour 2 seperate times. last weekend i clr'd my radiators as the right side unit was plugged and responsible for my bike overheating, after i did that i filled it up and rode untill it got hot enough to start boiling over , i thought i might have overfilled it but couldnt tell how much it had spit up so i made a makeshift catch can ( baby bottle method) and attached it to the radiator mount via a ziptie so i could see exactly how much it was boiling over, the first ride it spit about 3 ounces out then proceeded to develop a leak between the overflow bung ont he radiator and the overflow tube, so i ziptied that tight and released the pressure, it didnt spit any more water out just hissed a bit. i rode again for almost an hour and watched it closely, it spit out about 4 more ounces then stayed level, the bike was running great and seemed to be cool enough so i kept riding almost trying to make it overheat by slow riding with a high load in sand and over some broken concrete irrigation blocks that are dumped in an orchard here ( that part was fun, first time ive tried that technical slow riding stuff.. i only ate it once ) no other overheating issues that i could tell ( i dotn know how elese to hell.. i assume it would pop a hose or do something bad if it were) so my questions are

1) after i got back and parked it the first time it seemed to not have pressure on the left side radiators hose ( top spiget to head), but while riding it was pressurized.. normal?

2) it didnt suck any of that water back in after cooling off but doesent appear to be low when i check the radiator level, how could it overflill by THAT much?

3) is the overflow bottle supposed to be 100% airtight or have a vent to work properly?

second issue invloves surging high idle and missing... when slowing down and pulling in the clutch the bikes idle wouldnt come down very fast, it would take some time if it came down at all, i adjusted the idle screw on the choke and it calmed down a but but still surges and retains a high idle for longer than i think is normal

1b) would my ultra small pilot ( #38 ) cause enough of a lean condition to be responsible for this?

2b) it seems to be missing/sputtering a bit from off idle to about half throttle under load (but not when free reving) is this a plug type issue or can that small pilot possibly be a culprit in this case as well?

thanks guys.. even with these little issues i had a frickin blast today and cant wait to ride again tommarow, im starting to get used to the bike and its power and even startng to want it to be faster ( want to get it fully tuned in this state first of course), i knew it wouldnt take long for me to get used to the speed of the bike and then the "go faster's" to kick in

You need to vent the overflow bottle. I used a part of a plastic spray straw froma can of WD40. It will suck it back in, you can't overfill the rads or the system, it will always recover what it spits, and if the rads look full but you have puke in the bottle, your pump and or hoses are where the fluid is missing.

definitly larger pilot needed, possibly needle clip as well, but always make only 1 change at a time.
should suck everything back in the rads if the tube is sealed correctly and going to the bottow of the catch can.

thanks guysI i will switch coolants if thats what is neccesary, is it common for bikes running straight water to boilover? i will vent the overflow and drop the clip a notch in a few mins. im going to order a few jets and get that pilot up to snuff, i wonder why it got such a small jet in the first place.

how do i be sure ive filled the system all the way, ie; making sure the pump and hoses are full as well?

don't forget the airscrew is the pilot circuit, so turning it in is the same as running a larger pilot jet. turn it in 1/2 a turn to 1 turn and see if the problem goes away.

i think it tells you what to do in the book. but if you dont have a book then it works the same way as the old ford trucks. fill it to the top of the fins or leave it just below the the fins and the empty space at the top of the radiator will allow the coolant to expand and contract.

i edited the title accordingly.. i squeeked it i dropped the clip a notch, added a vent to the overflow and took it out to see how if my 7 mins of labor were worth it, lol. it was running great.. still rough in the 1/4 throttle range, i went down the canal a m,ile or so, turned around ran back to an arochard i ride in, made 4 passes around the orchard turned around for #5 and about the top end of third gear it made a gay sound that i felt in the bike and locked up the tire ( kinda sh!tty when your going that fast) i stopped it and tried to kickj iot over, it free spun then stuck again for good. ive got the exhaust and head off already, the piston is in one piece but is stuck 3/4 of the way up. the stupidest part of all of this is that when i pu9lled the radiator hoses no water came out.. when i pulled the head off.. no water came out.. the radiator showed full again but it wasnt.. thsi whole thing is because i couldnt get the cooling system figured out, i thought that since i flushed the rads they were going to be ok.. wrong i guess. oh well, time for some port work and new radiators ill take pics along the way

I have a pair of 89 rads Ill part with, make sure your water pump is in decent shape and not too corroded.

BUMMER

38 on a PJ is smokin lean man I can't believe you got 2 hours out of it , it should of stuck way sooner. When you get it back together put a 50 with needle in 3rd clip, air screw 1.5 turns and a 172 main. after it is well broken in get a hoon close by to help you dial it in.

i forgot to mention before i rode i also closed the airscrew by 1/2 a turn, that would bring it down to 1 full turn open as opposed to 1.5 turns like where i had it. definitly a bummer Mr Lewis. brit, pm me with what you want for those badboys or give me a call (209) 608-0117, are rads all thre same? or did they vary from year to year?

What year is yours? I think the 89s have a different conecting tube?

I just talked to Jay.... He pulled the head off, but the rads are still full of green coolant...



I had him pull the pump drain bolt.... dark nasty stuff came out of the block and jug, rads still full of green coolant.




Jays got some issues to figure out.

so there is a melting point on one of these engines?? good luck on the rebuild brotha

ok, first find after dropping he radiators is that the right side unit a ( with the cap) was absolutly 100% clogged.. you cant blow through it or pass water through it at all.. not even a drop. so overheating was my downfall and my fault for assuming i cleared the rad problem up last time when i clr'd them. the piston skirt scattered on the intake side, i think ive managed to recover about 80% of the pieces so far. the piston has a w with a circle around it on one side of the wrist pin journal and a 55 on the other side... does this mean wiseco .055" over? how far over can you go? heres a few pics of the aftermath, one with the piston in the place it froze in the jug, a couple of the reeds and reed cage where i first found chunks of piston, the "custom team bigjay racing piston" itself and a couple of the jug etc.

Looks like a stock piston to me, as I can't see any writing on the crown and its shattered

Is your rod bent or is the camera playing tricks?

You got some major re-building ahead of you son, start splitting the cases....

i think its the camera angle.. the rod look straight to me, but i see that in the pic it looks bent.. having to do the bottom end is about the only thing that could suck worse

THAT SUCKS

We havent done this in a while, but it might be time for the ol' "Hoon-a-Thon" donation.

Jay did everything right when he purchased his bike, including pulling the reed block to look for cracked skirts and such..... and now this happens.

The way the "Hoon-a-Thon" works, is to paypal Jay some funds to get his bike going again.

If enough members send $5 or so, it will really help Jay out. He still has to get is radiators sorted out too.

$5 aint nothin' to ask, is it?

Stoffers has him hooked up on a local machine shop ( while Glenn is resting) so it will get machined correctly.

I'll start it off with $10

Jays paypal is: jayjennr@yahoo.com

Support this new Hoon in getting his heap running again!!

No way..that's a Wiesco..... 100% .

lewisclan wrote:THAT SUCKS

yup

We have blew a piston before and just washed out the bottom end sevral times until clean and rebuilt the top . its still running fine but we did not cook it .

"Hoon-a-Thon"

AlisoBob wrote:No way..that's a Wiesco..... 100% .

Well then we finally have a pic of a cracked wiseco!!!!!!