BannedCR500Riders.com

Since we dont have a Steely only thread.. I guess this place is as good as any to put up pictures of my progress on my Rebuild.

After about 3 hours of work.


I got some scrubbin to do






Broken Radiator gaurd anyone.. Guess i get a new set of these too!


Ready Filters not working so good!!! Time to go back to a traditional filter.


Gotta love a beat down silencer! Hey DannyGraves.. The turbine core 2 has a built in spark arrestor so you wont have to worry about that for the prescott ride


Bike was fat now running lean! Time to bump it back up to that 60 pilot and keep it fat all the way across.. It was weezing on me at the top of comp and whenever i was on it hard so im going to fatten it back up.



My plans are to blast and fix any blemish's in the frame there are a couple.. Then paint it flat black.. MFDB i really liked the way yours looked and well im just gonna have to copy you

I also ordered a new PC Platinum Pipe and New Turbine Core 2 Silencer as well.. So i can hopefully get that pull back on top and ill cure the missing bottom end with a little regear Probably run 15/51 or 14/49.

Welp ill keep adding as i make progress. Time to get back to the garage and get that motor ripped out and forks taken off..

I asked ISBB if he knew how loud his bike was....

Mimicry is the best form of flattery right?? I have plenty of POR-15 left if you want it...

Weld that tab back on sissy boy, no need to replace!!

A 60 pilot aint gonna fatten SHEEIT up top, it only affects idle to 1/8 throttle. The main jet/needle is what you need. Lower the clip on the needle one spot at a time. Looking at that plug you arnt lean, lean leaves white ash or if its severe enough, you plug will be anodized...
You want the rim black and the ground strap chocolate brown, the electrode should be clean and the porcelin around it should be chocolate as well. If its oily/wet yu might drop the oil mix down a bit, especially if you are spoogin'...

We are opening a huge can-o-worms talking plugs in Rickie Bobbers presence. The proper way to read plugs is to put a CLEAN one in and run the bike specifically at the throttle position you are testing the mixture at for as long as possible, then pull the clutch and hit the kill. Come to a stop, pull the plug.

If you plan on duning that bike better stay off the 15 front. 14/49 is ok, but I run 14/51 so it will pull Comp in 5th gear. You want to gear up the revs a bit, lugging too much in the sand slows the water pump to much for the air through the rads, causing you to over heat.

AlisoBob wrote:

I asked ISBB if he knew how loud his bike was....

I guess I never noticed with him usually running sweep. You guys should have heard DG's '86 when he blew the end cap and packing out!!

M.F.D.B. wrote:Mimicry is the best form of flattery right?? I have plenty of POR-15 left if you want it...

Weld that tab back on sissy boy, no need to replace!!

A 60 pilot aint gonna fatten SHEEIT up top, it only affects idle to 1/8 throttle. The main jet/needle is what you need. Lower the clip on the needle one spot at a time. Looking at that plug you arnt lean, lean leaves white ash or if its severe enough, you plug will be anodized...
You want the rim black and the ground strap chocolate brown, the electrode should be clean and the porcelin around it should be chocolate as well. If its oily/wet yu might drop the oil mix down a bit, especially if you are spoogin'...

We are opening a huge can-o-worms talking plugs in Rickie Bobbers presence. The proper way to read plugs is to put a CLEAN one in and run the bike specifically at the throttle position you are testing the mixture at for as long as possible, then pull the clutch and hit the kill. Come to a stop, pull the plug.

If you plan on duning that bike better stay off the 15 front. 14/49 is ok, but I run 14/51 so it will pull Comp in 5th gear. You want to gear up the revs a bit, lugging too much in the sand slows the water pump to much for the air through the rads, causing you to over heat.

Its the only explanation i could come up with.. After we went from that 60 to a 55 did the plug start showin that.. hell with a 60 it fouled.. but with that 55 its a bitch to start.. so i was gonna throw the 60 back in.. I do agree it needs to be jetted properly and at this point im just hit and miss and dont know enough to properly do it.. I did plan on dropping down to a 190-195 on the main as well and maybe going w/ a 58 for the pilot.. i dotn really care if it idles i just care if it starts easy.. This past trip when it was cold it took alot of kickin to get the bike to come to life.. with the 60 in there it was a 2 kick wonder.. 1 sissy and one good kick.. I dunno.. Im just a newb hoon when it comes to jetting. As far as the front sprocket goes i run 15/49 now and am 3rd 4th gear on fast runs.. i wouldnt mind dropping to a 14 and see how much better it pulls.. I never had a problem with over heating either so the 15 doesnt seem to bother it too much in that department.. I do have a 14 on the shelf i plan on trying though.

You taking the motor apart?? If so I can help you go through it and replace what is needed. That plug had no white ash so you are definately not lean. Plus lean at idle is fine, it wont hurt anything lubrication wise. I think you have some mechanical issues making it hard to start. (worn top end/rings, leaky main seals or gaskets, etc.).

If your mixture/jetting seems to vary wildly this would seem to be the case. A leaky main seal might not leak very much after things heat up and expand, same goes for case center gaskets. Some people will only burn trans oil when the engine is cold, etc. etc. While you have the bike torn apart you might as well split the cases and inspect the whole thing. At most it will cost you only time and a gasket set, if you just look around and reassemble. I have all the tools, and ill help you through it step by step...

Also, you will LOVE the 14, DO IT!!

Justin.. It started just fine before putting the 55 in.. the top end only has 25 gallons of race gas on it.. So i find it hard to believe that a top end w/ plenty of compression left would be the culprit.. Im going to put the 60 back and find out.. Im just thinkin that the 55 is a little on the too lean side and is whats causing it.. ill play with it and see.. I didnt plan on taking the motor apart but if need be i can.

ISBB wrote:Justin.. It started just fine before putting the 55 in.. the top end only has 25 gallons of race gas on it.. So i find it hard to believe that a top end w/ plenty of compression left would be the culprit.. Im going to put the 60 back and find out.. Im just thinkin that the 55 is a little on the too lean side and is whats causing it.. ill play with it and see.. I didnt plan on taking the motor apart but if need be i can.

If you are certain that the top end is that fresh (look into the exhaust with a flashlight, and the intake if you remove the reed cage) then thats 25% of the job, but how CERTAIN are you that the case/trans, gaskets and seals are all sound?? Dont forget that a top end is an EASY job but FEW dare to split the cases. So this is why 90+% of the problems people seek help for on the net are found to be (with "fresh" or "brand new" top ends) the case related problems (main seals, case gaskets, etc.). It easy for some guy having problems to do a "top end" only to find out the problem is still there, then sell the bike to "pass the buck". Im not trying to jynx you, just giving you real life, opinion based PLENTY of experience!!

i will put the 60 back in and see what happens.. If that doesnt resolve the real high idle after a hard run then ill seek elsewhere.. Its not spooging so its not too fat on the needle could probably go a clip leaner but we both know my main is huge and that definatley needs to be dropped.. so ill try a few new combinations when i get the bike back together.. The motor is sitting on the shelf so it wont take but 6 8mm bolts and a flash light to look at both angles and if i feel froggy pull the head off and take a peek but im going to presume that the piston and jug are just fine

ISBB wrote:i will put the 60 back in and see what happens.. If that doesnt resolve the real high idle after a hard run then ill seek elsewhere.. Its not spooging so its not too fat on the needle could probably go a clip leaner but we both know my main is huge and that definatley needs to be dropped.. so ill try a few new combinations when i get the bike back together.. The motor is sitting on the shelf so it wont take but 6 8mm bolts and a flash light to look at both angles and if i feel froggy pull the head off and take a peek but im going to presume that the piston and jug are just fine

Dont waste $24 on pulling the head if you are going to look in the intake and exhaust;you wont learn anything more...

Have you measured your trans fluid to make sure you are not consuming any?? Remember, if you have a leak on the right side main or center gasket, the oil you consume displaces an equal volume of fuel mix LEANING the mixture by itsself. Not to mention if you are drawing in oil you are also drawing in air. If the LEFT side seal is leaking, you will run lean and have no trans oil smoke to warn you.

I am running a 200 main jet and I can readily smoke Danny and Britt so I doubt very much, if its not spooging, that you main is too fat. Remember, too rich on the main, messy fender, too lean, new top end...

I will continue wiping my fender...

yeah, my '86 was super loud with that silencer blown out
the rule of thumb with pilots, is to make adjustments at the air screw. to tell if your problem is with the pilot (which it probably is) turn the air screw in a half a turn and see if it starts easier, if it does, then go with a larger pilot jet. I had a lot of starting issues with a messed up needle setting since I always start with some throttle.
If your bike isn't blubbering up top, don't change that main, having as large a main that will not bluber is idea for those extended WOT runs in the sand, It keeps it from running AS lean while extended WFO

ISBB wrote: I got some scrubbin to do

god damn dude! wanna borrow my pressure washer?

dannygraves wrote: god damn dude! wanna borrow my pressure washer?

No kidding!!

I was gonna borrow dunefreaks but your alot closer so YA may i.. LOL

MFDB did you have the POR stripper or just the paint over and cover up rust stuff?

I have some fancy epoxy primer crap already that i was going to use and some single state top coat from PPG so i just need to strip everything from the bike.. did you strip yours or just paint over the top of the old stuff?

ISBB wrote:I was gonna borrow dunefreaks but your alot closer so YA may i.. LOL

Let me know when, I have to dump the old gas out of it, but other than that, its good to go!
MFDB bead blasted his frame, he bead blasts everything! you can borrow my blasting cabinet too, if you want, but you can't fit a whole frame in it.

DG is right. I bead everything, I have the complete POR system. Thinner, metal prep, black coat and chassis coat...

who bead blasted your frame?

usually when I paint a frame, I clean it really good, then pressure wash it, then scuff the surface and rattle can the SOB. I don't really see the need to strip the whole thing unless you are having it powder coated. Just me though, I'm cheap and lazy

he has access to all sorts of equipment..... bastard!

ISBB wrote:who bead blasted your frame?

el numero uno...

hook a brutha up..

Danny i wouldnt mind blasting all the crap off my Boyseen Case covers and paintin them but that can come later..

MFDB got tig welder or know someone who does?

ISBB wrote: MFDB got tig welder or know someone who does?

I wish!!

Brian at united machine in henderson takes care of me. He welded my a/f and bored out my carb. Builds some crazy quads and long travel trucks too! hes cool, if he quotes you a certain amount, but it takes him longer, you still pay what he said. When I dropped off my a/f frame with the motor in it, I told him to tack it, then I'd come by durring lunch and pull the motor so he could finish, but I got there and it was finished and put back together! A+ great guy!