BannedCR500Riders.com

just a little rant.
i tore into my tranny yesterday, most of this year ive had a problem with the tranny. when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, sometimes it would go into 3rd, then jump back to second and every once in a while it would find a neutral between 2nd and 3rd. i tore into it because i wanted preaty much a brand new motor when i finish my AF. this is what i found bad.
all 3 shift forks
one the counter shaft
2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear.
on the main shaft,
3rd, and 5th plus the main shaft is bad.

all priced threw service honda totals $565.89
tomorrow im calling my honda dealer (who i get a great deal from) to see what it will cost me from there.

i also just got my hinson clutch basket in today, my other was notched worse than i have ever seen before.

i wanted to get this back together before i go back to work on the 2nd, but i didn't think there was gonna be so much bad.

"All i want for christmas is a few tranny parts"

I have said for a long time that the best lubricant for the gears is what you should be running in the tranny.

My current choice is Shell Rotella Diesel 15/40 motor oil.

1. Cheap.
2. Great Lube.
3. Cheap.

Hardparts are no fun to replace. If I lose a clutch ( never has happened, but its something the anti motor oil folks always say) so what? Clutches are easy to swap out.


Sorry to hear of your woes....



Rob only uses 1st, sell him 2-5......

yea im definetely gonna be changing oils. ive been using spectro gear saver for a long time except 2 changes when i used redline. i will now be using hondas HP4 tranny oil. ive heard nothing but good about this oil.

but for 10 years old, i think its about time i have to replace something besides rings.

Have you checked the prices at www.honda-partsdirect.com?

How are you determining that all of that is bad? I mean, that seems like a lot of parts if you were maintaining it at all.

If you get the chance, post a pic or two of what you're calling bad.

i tore into a 10yo motor couple months ago just for fun and to make sure the tard i bought it from didnt put dirt in there. everything was like brandnew and that aint no joke. i miced it to the honda manual and all was excellent. somewhere over the years somebody really neglected that trans of yours. believe me, these trannys dont get broke in until 10 years. my bike isnt just an exception to the rule, probly a ton of cr5 trannys still working today that alot older than my bike

The key is change that oil, better to use $2.50 a bottle oil and change every 2 hrs, then $12 oil every 10 hours. Man I've seen gear box oil that came out of others bikes that looked like something my dog sprayed out after a pasta dinner ( not pretty to say the least).

Keep it clean kids, run steel plates

honda parts direct were more the service honda by a few bucks on each part.

on the gear, the dogs are rounded quite a bit, some more the others. im gonna go threw later this week and pickout what i can actually save.
the forks, one is ground alot on one side, the others are burned on both sides. the main shaft, where the slider sits in the middle has a noticible notch in it keeping the gear from sliding smoothly. ill try to get some pics later this week.

ive owned this bike since 01-02, i bought it from a friend who bought it from a dealer used. the original owner bought it new, took it to the dunes and blew it up and took it back and got rid of it. my friend bought it in 99 and rebuild it. if anyone neglected it, it was me. when i bought it i was young and stupid. since then i have wised up.

ou812 wrote:... better to use $2.50 a bottle oil and change every 2 hrs...

my races last 2-3 times that

ive got various tranny parts kicking around. let me know if you need anything. everything i have is in good working order, not brandnew but i can take pics and measurments

ou812 wrote: Keep it clean kids, run steel plates

total from my dealer is $473 for everything listed.

i have a barnett clutch in it now, i will be putting a EBC stock replacement in it when i put it back together.

There is nothing wrong with running motor oil.. You just have to be careful what kind of oil your putting in there... If it has friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip... ON the back of every bottle.. there is a Round Circle emblem thats about nickle sized.. and if it has Energy Conserving in there.. that means dont put that in your bike.. LOL

I for the longest time in my WR ran mobile 1 synthetic red cap 15/50 i believe it was.

ISBB wrote: If it has friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip...

I've heard this countless times, never seen it.