BannedCR500Riders.com

My clutch has always acted funny, and now I know there is deffinately something wrong.

After installing a moose ez3 clutch lever it wouldn't roll freely at all in gear wiith the clutch lever pulled. We tried about every way of adjusting it at the cable, and decidid it must be something more.... so I took off the cover on that side to find this



That is without pulling the lever. If I pull the lever the bracket the cable is held in touches the case where the cable comes through without disengaging the drivetrain. What should I do next to sollve this problem? There didn't seem to be anything about my issue in the clymer manual, so I could really use any help I can get here!

Thanks in advance

Disassemble the clutch assy and check your springs. Make sure the little ball that goes in front of the rod is in place. And that the rod is the correct length.

Thanks, I was afraid I might have to do that... unless anyone else has a suggestion or can see something wrong in that pic I'll take it to the same friend who swaped the cylinder head and see what he can do...

That ball is critical and may have been left out of the assembly.
I've done that before.

nathaniel wrote:Thanks, I was afraid I might have to do that... unless anyone else has a suggestion or can see something wrong in that pic I'll take it to the same friend who swaped the cylinder head and see what he can do...

It's easy dude just follow this guide
http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/view ... hp?t=10660

and at this pic there should be a ball on the end of the rod and then a end cap

Now we're talkin! That thread you linked to is going to make this much easier!

So, if there were something missing in there, or if anything should need replaced, where would be the best place to look? Also, there may still be a question of parts compatability because idk if the engine is all original.

Other than unforseen parts, it would probably be a good idea to do a few other things while I have it open. I will at least need this...

Gasket kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GU3BF ... C5XRRCX4P2

And what oil is the best to refill the bottom with?

It also wouldn't hurt to pretty 'er up a bit with new covers

Clutch cover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GUWPL ... PDKIKX0DER

Will this one fit? Is that a reasonable price? Is there a better one I shouuld be looking at?
I would also like to do the 250 ignition and stator upgrade, but plan to make another thread just for that. Anyways, will this ignition cover work for that mod? Also, will the markings (logo and lettering) and paint color match the clutch cover I have picked?

Ignition cover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GV2QW ... L500_SS115

Thought I should get this too.... might save me some headache in the future.

Magnetic oil drain plug
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009HAF6R ... JNMT9ZTSIP

I know that's a lot if questions all at once, but I really want to get this thing ready for next season, so any input is greatly apriciated!

That's the wrong ingnition cover for a 500 that you have linked.

I thought I was supposed to need a 250 ignition cover for the swap I have read about? Or is that only if stock cr250 parts are to be used?

Edit
Nevermind
Its not the cover, its the backplate..... this is why I should be asking people who know better though. I'll find the correct one when I get home, the mobal amazon site is lame

If you are just wanting to see if the ball is there you only need to take the clutch cover off then remove the pressure plate

The clymer manual recomends SAE 10w-40. Is there any brand that you guys have found to work best in thses bikes?

Looked alitttle harder into the clutch and ignition covers and found thses. I assume they will match, because the part number is simular.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008ZHHC5 ... TDEW68WUEP

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008ZHH91 ... 6VV6LCS6Z6

I really hope they match, but there's only a stock photo
Does anyone make aluminum covers that say honda for these anymore or what?

Rotella T works well you can buy it at Walmart

sabreguy wrote:Rotella T works well you can buy it at Walmart

Yep - what Sabre said. Make sure you get the one in the white bottle - 15W40 though and not the synthetic. Been using it in all my bikes for years now.

Will do, thanks. I'll post again with results.... hopefully good results

what is the adjustment on the cable like

Well before I took it all back apart it was like this...

Cable is in the middle slot.


Lever stops firm here.


With the lever pulled, the cable at the other end hits the inside of the engine case. The image in the original post was WITHOUT pulling the lever.

there are lots that swear by Tractor oil, you can find it at autozone.

I'm a tractor hydro guy on the CR, I use rotella in my XR.

I use Rotella T-6 in my CR500 as well as in my CBR1000.

be aware that you have the older style engine with the ball on the rod instead of the needle bearing.

Well I finally got the new clutch cover last Friday, and started the work Sunday morning. The situuation went from bad to worse the bearing is there, and intact, but I forgot to check the length of the rod. No mater, as it has to come apart again, because the springs and clutch plates are at the end of their service limit. I did pick up 2 bottles (just to be safe) of rotella t non synthetic in the white bottle from walmart, so thanks for recomeding that

Now for the parts that need replaced. Amazon has an EBC kit wich includes clutch plates, and springs for $110. Is there another brand I would be better off with? Is that a reasonable price?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H7IHI6 ... Z6PSD6BQSI

If that rod were the wrong length, where can I get the correct part? For some reason I think it is too short.... I can't believe I forgot to measure it

Is the ball (bearing) present at the end of the rod?

Yes, the ball is still in there with the cap on top

Well..??
What happened next?

Not much... 220mm is what I got for the rod length. Is that OK? still waiting on those clutch plates and springs, but my friend who I mentioned earlier took a look in the clutch, and couldn't really say just what the problem is. Now I think it could be the clutch lifter instead of the lifter rod... but idk how to tell if it's too worn. Of course if any of you could tell by this pic



We also removed some wear on the clutch basket with a file, but that didn't seem to make any difference. Here's a pic of that just to clarify



All those waves where the plates make contact with the basket are smooth now.

I forgot to ask about the lifter I found. Partzilla has it for about $40. I found out about them through this site, is there anywhere else I could get a better price?