BannedCR500Riders.com

Well, you all have probably seen this done to death by now, but I would like to share my build. I started with an 04 CRF450 roller with Warp 9 hubs and wheels, pro taper (and renthal twin wall) bars, factory connection suspension (not set up for me), tall seat, decent plastics for $450.



I then found a 1990 CR500 for $900. The motor had been completely gone through by the local Honda shop but the guy put it in such a rough looking bike, folks didn't really want it. It didn't even have grips and the pipe was barely hanging on. It ran like a beast so I took it. He kept saying "all these guys keep calling and just want to destroy it by taking out the motor." Felt it was a good time to keep my mouth shut.



I really liked that the other frame options have billet Y's available so we made one similar to one available for a different frame. They said there was little interest in my year bike so I figured I'd make one. I wish I could tell you where it was made, but prob shouldn't. I will tell you that my bike will be all it can be. My buddy and I pretty much designed it over the phone so there was a couple things that can be improved the next time.

My Y is put it as you have seen before, but fits the 2002-2004 frame. If I ever make another one I am not going to integrate motor mounts. That part sucked and the down tube holder at the bottom rubbed the motor so I had to sand it down a bit. Also the down tube slot was a bit wide so I had to put in a bit of extra metal. That was my mistake because I was messing with a different frame and cut the down tubes out. We left it larger to see what fit best and if we do it again, we will have a better fit.







The radiator hit a bit, but I massaged it into submission



I sanded off the bottom motor mounts while being careful not to cut into the tubes



I got some billet mounts off a auction site you know and used two for the lower mounts.

Time to weld





Well, I guess I need to take more weld pics. He did a really nice job so I want to make sure and show some

Great post. Looking forward to seeing more. I'm in the process of getting everything I need for my 2004 CRF450 conversion and would be interested in a Y if you are gonna make them.

We could probably make one for ya. The only thing is we need to change some dimensions and I want to get rid of the front motor mounts so you can be more flexible with position. With that said, I would probably want to try it on another frame before I hook anybody up with one. I don't want you to be upset with what you get. That may be too long for you. I have another frame here, but I cut the down tubes off when I was trying something different. Don't do that. I am also working on making an airbox adapter. I'm roughing out one now. We'll see how that goes.

I like your Y too. If I can make a suggestion, instead of the "Pocket" that rubbed the motor, do the opposite, make that part go inside the frame. It will give you more cleareance all around the tube. I would also leave the motor mounts on the Y , less welding = less stress on the part--> less chance to crack.

I did something similar on mine, not a complete Y, but my extension have the mount incorporated in them (you can do wonders with just a grinder an a press drill!!)

I hope the pics works:

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=ED6 ... BuM4abN0aw

edit: link seems to work for me and if I click on the image it gets bigger.

Thank you Bob !

Black,

I hear ya on that. I guess I first saw the pockets and it really appealed to me and stuck with it. The designing over the phone caused the rub. But you bring up valid points. One difference about your inserts and my y is that your tubes will line up. If I make inserts instead of pockets I need to design it so they line up with the weird angles the tubes come in. Possible but more difficult for my first try.

Your insert design is so much more straight forward. I'm curious to hear Bob's take on the strength differences between the two cus I saw he posted before he didn't like billet y's due to excessive rigidity.

Making the airbox adapter. Dig the Coleman lantern lighting?







My wife installing the mudflap

I tried something a bit different for the front exhaust mount. Some may like it some may not, but I liked the simplicity. It bolts to the front motor mount and works really well.








Here is my silencer mount setup. What I did is make a mount from a grommet I found at Lowes. It was really easy to make and the rear mount was no good on my used pipe anyway. I wanted to mount to the subframe bolt, but I couldn't get it to line up and still get a nut on. I like how this worked out anyway. For the rear silencer mount I just picked up the rear fender bolt and made a bracket to bolt to the original silencer mount as well.

and YES, I have put a washer on my pipe mount.





Front silencer mount



Rear silencer mount

Here is possibly another controversial method: my headstay. I really wanted to pick up the side mounts and didn't feel it was enough so I did both. I initially made it a two-piece design with a cross bar and a bar that bolts between two tabs welded on under the shock cross bar. I then decided it would be more stable if I welded them together. I wanted to be able to remove it easily so I made spacer plates that go between the cross bar and the the frame so I could just unbolt and pull off through the top. I made if from steel so it is not as pretty as I would like, but I feel it is strong.

I cleaned off the black paint from the 1990 engine and ready to put in

How did you go about getting the paint off from the motor??

Buy this stuff from lowes. Designed to take paint of aluminum. It's an acid so use good gloves and do it outside. Most of the paint will just curl up and fall off. Some areas u have to scrape or use a wire brush. I used gallons on a1950 fuel truck that I think was painted once a year looking at the layers. It's powerful stuff

I've heard the later model cases are actually clear coated, any plans to coat your cases to keep them from getting corrosion?

1995+ cases are bare, no cases have ever been clear

Roostius_Maximus wrote:1995+ cases are bare, no cases have ever been clear

Hmm interesting. So if a guy was to remove the paint from his cases like OP did would he have to worry about any corrosion issues? I kind of like the look of the bare cases but if it's going to be a maintenance nightmare then I'll just leave mine black.

Side note- OP I LOVE your 5 window Chevy!

Right side case on some 89 and older (waterpump/clutch case) are mag, they will corrode especially when in contact with salt water, aluminum, not so much

Here is my attempt at a decompression valve/compression release valve install. My worry is that the welder, while welding, undercut the lip a bit and I'm worried it won't seal. The surface is flat and the head does not seem to be warped but I'm worried that there is not enough area for the seal now. Was hoping the expert, Roostius, might weigh in. Any thoughts?

I'm no roosty but it doesn't look like you will have any problems, I would use a flat plate, and a sheet of 400 sand paper and lap it a bit to make sure it is still nice and flat, if you don't get full contact, use something coarser and get it flat then work your way back to 320 or 400 grit.

ya, it don't look bad. I prefer to do the chamber entrance as a 90* passage and come out of the squish band, it'll work.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not familiar with the term "squish". Could somebody fill me in?

it is the flat angle part on the dome part of the head before the rounded dome, the distance between that and the piston is what there talking about if that makes sense