Dieter's CR250 Projekt

[Rosco-Peeko]

Lemme get this outta the way. I am a 500 rider, nothing thrills like the pipe of a CR500. I did have other 500's, a pristine 2001 sold to Lewisclan. My 89, she is gorgeous to me. I built it from roach to almost brand new. I want to preserve that. I will still ride my 89'er but only on special rides and I dont have to heart to hack it up into a conversion...time and pride.

I learned from Scott/Mojoscojo that the tight woods of Washington will wear you out. Four hours to do 12 miles!?!?!?! That was Reiter. Singletrack in the desert is either loamy, rocky, hardpack or all. Scott took me on true single track that was heavily rutted 6 plus inches deep in rottin vegetation and your boots weight a ton...so does the bike.

I began to think....might be a good time to put the 500 to slumber and step down to a 250 smoker. I surfed Craigslist and found a bunch but all were 60% more than blue book at roached out.

I saw a few, one was a 2006 YZ250, they wanted $3K. It had a blown fork seal, pukin oil out of the exhaust valves, the owner wadded it up and busted the rear fender in half...lol. His fix was to drill numerous holes and safety wire it back on...looked horrid. I walked away...with no offer made.

I was also looking at a 2007 YZ250, original owner rode it a few times ate pucky once and parked it...less than 10 hours. He wanted $1K over blue book...I laughed and walked away.

All hope is lost...over caffeinated and lack of vitamin D has melted the common sense out of some brain here. I want to ride my 500....but want to save it also.

A year ago I found a 2004 CR250 for my buddy...very little wear on clutch cover and had other signs that were quite positive. I wanted someone close to ride with. We looked at the bike...I rode it and love how it hit the pipe...like asking or more. He bought it.!

That weekend I did a abbreviated Rob inspection ready to ride deal-o. We took it to Ft Lewis and he ripped around on it fine. The next step he took it to Tahuya....easy trails...fun stuff. That poor guy ate it.......a lot! I rode sweep. He was hurting when we got back to the truck......he never rode it again. I know he was sore a few days after. Not sure what happened....I was day-dreaming on my 500 and we were on a quad trail...I came around the corner...he was in fetal position in mid air flying off to the right of the trail and the bike was riding itself off to the left???

The bike sat......which it has for most of its life. I bought it....and we start here:

@ Tahuya:


First day in my garage:


1) Bought Honda Service Manual
2) Ripped bike in half....every pivot, bearing and hinge cleaned and lubed with MolyB.
3) Airbox was growing dirt stalactites....hose out...and wiped box and snorkle spotless
4) Came with a brand new Uni...cleaned...dried, doused with FFS...wring....dry...install
5) Sealed Snorkle.AirBox junction....noted achilles heel for leaks. beaded clear silicone around circ.
6) Pulled Carb, yeah I know the TMX is crap...and PWK is way to go...lemme work with it. Fuel bowl had never been off. Completely disassembled sprayed with Chem-Tool and blew out with compressed air.
7) Pulled reed block off.....skeet skeet skeet...brand new Boyeson carbon fibers...yeah buddy. Eyeballed the piston...cant really see nothing....looked ok tho. Put new gasket and torqued
New plastic, front fender, number plated (cracked) shrouds with oem "like" graphics and side panels. I left the rear fender alone...it had a sticker on it...that can be glossed over from boot marks (throwing a leg over).
Dumped tranny fluid....threw some royal purple 10-40 in...so far it likes it....expensive.
9) Flushed coolant system, drained and added engine ice
10) Has devol rad guards!!! But they are dorito chipped up??? Bent and out of conformance. My guess, origial owner bought off e-bay as the rads are perfect. I cold worked them with ball-peen into shape...fabbed another side bracket....ball peened the hell out oa strip of alum and drilled...werx and looks better
11) Did a comp check and she blew 180 PSI..ok...not so hot. Gonna get a few rides in and then change the slug.
12) Flushed brakes, burped added fresh Dot 4.
13) Set controls to me
14) Pulled thottle apart, cleaned...lubed with lithium grease. Let go of throttle and instantaneous aural verification its slammed to off.

As she sits in the garage now:


A couple of points and current way ahead:
1) Need larger tank!
2) New top end to establish baseline and learn PV
3) Searching for unmolested stock pipe 02-04
4) Test run at Army base tomorrow....want to see where jetting is at...pipe is working...but jetting can be cleaned up

I dont want to throw every piece of bling at this. Seems to be the common things these days. Lets see....$800 plus of bolt ons. Will it improve my riding versus bling? Or can I use a stock CR250 to its full extent? I just want a solid bike.....where is the bling when its coated with a few mm of mud?

**in-Progress**

[Rosco-Peeko]

Needs to be leaned out off the bottom and maybe one size down on the main. Once in the power and the pipe comes on its begs for more....fun. It doesn't have the hit of the 500 obviously. Very light and its TURNS!!! This is going to take some getting use to. Its fast for a 250.

Going to have to drop some weight. I am at 214 now. I would like to get to 190'ish. Going to have to throttle back on beers. I've been hitting the gym. Usually an hour of weights 3 sets 20 reps....hurts till you get use to it. Then run at lease 2 miles or hop on elipticle for 45 minutes or so. I do this 3-4 times a week.

Other thoughts:
1) Boingers worked over by Precision Concepts. I am impressed with their work.
2) Ironman Sprockets with the new 520 DID Z-ring "narrow." Supposedly narrow enough to not chew up your case or need a spacer. Still deciding on gearing.
3) Mounts and brackets from Scotts. I have the Damper on the 500 that I can move back and forth. Yeah...I'm cheap.
4) Would like to keep motor stock, which is perfect for what I need it for. Same with the brakes...I bled them and added new Dot 4...they work well. I like the stock pipe.....PITA to find a good one (this one is dented badly), 02-04 work. Worse case, I may throw a fatty on. I do have a freshly packed TC2 stinger.
5) All torques have been verified.
6) SI on front and M5B on rear....my fav setup.

[Rosco-Peeko]

I took the bike out the other day after all the work I've done thus far. I can tell a big difference! It is kinda lacking on the bottom end....whisk it open and it gets "angry" in a hurry. I need to drop the main down one size leaner and it should be spot on.

The power of this bike is somewhat foreign to me. Use to getting punched in the chest by the 500. Yet its light and flippin turns. I guess that makes it feel faster?

In the Mojave Dez all my riding (CR500), including singletrack was done with 14/47 gearing. It was kinda the sweet spot...I could still blast down an open trail or work it on SC102 in Jawbone canyon. Since moving up here I dropped down to 13/50...says a lot about the trails here.

With that said, I am wondering what gearing would be optimum for the 250? Its geared at 13/50 now. Thinking of dropping down to a 47/48 on the rear for woods riding. Suggestions?

I have now:
1) Scotts Damper setup enroute. I'll snake the damper off the 500.
2) Also enroute is Scotts 1 1/8 lower bar mounts...the damper setup comes with the dog bone (top mount) that the damper sits on.
3) Pro-Taper Evo Hi-Bends to accept the damper...not happening with the stock Renthals.
4) Servicing my damper this weekend. I am sure there is turkey gravy in there.
5) Harrisonmichaelm sent me a pm, he has two stock pipes sitting around gathering dust. They have a few dings in one and the other has a dent. I am sure they can be popped out, cleaned up and sprayed down with high-temp header paint to look new. Thanks hoon!


Way ahead:
1) Boingers worked over by Precision Concepts for woods/desert
2) Iron Man sprockets...looking at possible 13/48
3) DID VT2 520 narrow o-ring so it doesn't eat my case. (stock shiesty chain on there now)
4) New top end after a few more rides. Will prolly rock a Wiseco.
5) Cyra Pro-bends to protect my hands.
6) New rubber
7) Scotts shark fin
Clarke 3.2 Natural tank
9) Drop to 190 with my current gym regimen (40 min free weights 3 sets 20 reps for stamina x 4-6 different exercises then roughly an hour of cardio) and eating right.

I have done a lot of reading on this bike. Needs a little tweaking to make it a trail scooter. I think gearing is the next step...then the above santa-list.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Ok here we are.... Not a lot of work really. Been really busy with work and both the wife and I are sick as dogs.  :-[

1) Cleaned and serviced my Scotts Damper....quite easy really.
2) Installed Scotts Offset 1 1/8 Bar Clamps
3) Installed new Windham Bend Pro-Taper Evo's
4) New grips
5) Damper mount kit for this bike and slapped damper on




The front number plate cross bar pad deal-o has a hot date with Mr. Dremel Cutoff Wheel here in a sec.

Next order of business is Chains and Sprockets. Still rolling with Iron  Man sprockets and DID X-ring narrow 520 chain.....

[Rosco-Peeko]

I just got a full FMF exhaust. Doma is unavailable and was the "best" setup on my bike. I have been batting around the idea, from Adam, of swapping out the TMX for either a 00 KX250 or 05'ish YZ250 PWK, both have TPS and it will work on the CR.

Good tip on the base gasket! I am gonna break into the top in the next week or so. Looking at running a Namura. With ethanol free gas with a bit of VP C-12 to wake things up a bit. Been told they are a bit lazy unless you feed it right. Matter of fact today I am gonna look for some metal jerry cans for gas storage, since plastic leaks octane.

After the top end, and desert tank, I have to get the boingers done. A guy I work with races and has a few sponsors. He said he could get me a deal with:
http://www.tbtracing.com/
I really want to get those suspenders done before I start getting crazy. I would like to be able to ride this bike somewhat effective.

I will prolly be hitting you up a bit later once I tear into the motor. Finally found a machinist up here--Boeing guy. Funny, I talked to him over the phone and told him what I work on....an hour later after several technical discussions we started talking about the bike.

[Rosco-Peeko]

After reading and reading. I found an article that stated the DOMA system really wakes this bike up. The only person that use to import them, Grant Langston's dad...no longer imports them due to Euro/Dollar trade off.

Granted, this is my woods bike. Different from desert bike where the 500 reigns. I like 500 power...on tap. But a 250 is better suited in some of the snottiness up here. Im not the only one that agree's with that statement.

Coming off the 500 to a 250 that lacks low end. Creep into the mid and its like a chick (not a butterface) blowing kisses from the other side of bar....taunting you in deeper Wham! It wakes up and screams till the power rolls off. Not a really good mix for woods.

So here is the conundrum, because its a 250, I "dont" like the idea of putting a pipe on that would take power from somewhere else. That eliminates the Gnarley...unfortunately. Bad thought logic? Great pipe....but maybe not in this application.

A coworker that races--he's racing  Washougal (sp) this weekend we got into the discussion of pipes. Just so happens he has a sponsorship with FMF...... I flipped him the bills and picked up a Fatty and TC2 at sponsor prices.

I figured the Fatty would smooth it out a bit and give me some low end...without nixing mid or top to do it. I planned all week for this, and cleared my desk and e-mail box by 0900--see ya suckas. Like a little kid I ripped the bent up stocker off and the tired TC2 that was on there (looped out a few times)..not by me. I dropped my main to a 410...might push it to a 400. Swapped slow jet out to a 30 and backed AS out 1.5.

I followed my 500 start drill, choke, 3 sissy kicks...wham first kick. I took it up the street....I live in SNCO Housing so cant push my luck. However, I banked on the fact that sunlight and 75 Degrees would have them distracted...hehe. I liked the low end response and the pipe came on crisp but not angry like the stocker did. This will work!!!




So, now for the oh no. When I peeled off the stocker. I peered into the exhaust port to get a good look at the piston. Its a Wiseco, can tell by the horizontal lines. I saw a scratch in the piston skirt--about 1/2'" long not associated with bridge. Cranked it a bit more and noticed that lower on the skirt some polished spots (rattle...rattle?).  I let out a FUUUUUUUUUUUUDDDDDDDGE (not really--the other word), birds in the trees surrounding my house promptly evacuated...everyone stopped. A bit of an exaggeration... I was hoping to get a cylinder that wasn't dorked up. I talked to Millennium and they dont stock my cylinder thats already plated. Praying tot he best.  Got a fridge with beer, good tunes....peeling it apart tonight.

At least someone on the west coast has my piston....
http://www.namura.com/

Might as well get this all out of the way for piece of mind. More to follow. Have a good weekend my fellow hoons.  :)

[Rosco-Peeko]

So after all those pretty pics. I ripped into the top end. Not pretty, the crank blew over .040 side gap and the cylinder looked out of round? Had the stop sign drag marks..... So I have my work cut out for me. Gonna have a beer and some tunes while I think about this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NLb-rFMuz8

She will breath again...at least with a owner that give a sh>>

[Rosco-Peeko]

I was tempted to possibly running the crank with one more top end. This was until, I did a double take on the gap measurement. I got .061, service limit is .040!!! Thats with zero radial up and down movement. Priced new OEM crank w/ gaskets and seals @ $348 shipped.


I need to get the cylinder mic'ed out and cleaned up. Me thinks it needs to be replated. We shall see. You can see the what appears to be spaced drag/seize marks.




I have some work cut out for me. At least I will have piece of mind out on the trail.

[Rosco-Peeko]

I am gonna have the jug mic'ed and get an opinion. I am looking for a "good" machinist thats close by. I have had my fair share of jackass machinists/would-be's. There are no scratches that catch my finger. The bridge is questionable if its worn through. First time dealing with plated cyclinder.

Sorry I had my phone on vibrate...very busy this morning. Mainly dealing with people....sniveling about regs, enough said.

I talked with Crank Works, its 65 bones for them to true and weld a stock crank in and out in the same day.. I dunno, I fancy most of Honda's OEM stuff--feed it correctly and it will last. Although, Crank Works (04 CR250) pre-built Hot Rod cranks sound appealing. I can get the stock crank for $197 shipped, yes brand new. Thats a savings...

As far as boingers are concerned. I talked to TBT Racing in Olympia yesterday. They gave me a 20% cut because I know someone to get the bike set up for Washington Singletrack. Out the door for under $600.

This might be a slow process. Some of the parts are gonna take a while to get here and I cant do it all at once...wife would murder me in my sleep. Plus its hard to escape the office during the day--flying solo for a while with my compadre being on leave.

First order of business...the motor...then boingers...dez tank...carb...etc.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Oh daddy! Got "everything" I need to do the bottom end!


The local guy, everyone (local bike shops) raves he's is an ex-Boeing guy. I guess that means something to them? Means nothing to me because I deal with Boeing daily and he can quite possibly be a quack. Anyway, he seems like a real character.

He wanted $15 to check to see if my crank was trued out of of the box. If it wasn't, he wanted $95 on top to true it..(insert Stifler smart@ss comment here). I will have him check to see if its trued...while I watch. If its out...sending to Crank Works. They can turn it in a day trued and welded for 65 bones.

Working top end..... Having Millennium do a replate on the cylinder and set it up with a standard bore Wiseco. I still need some gaskets and such.

I bought everything for the bottom end through these guys. Good prices and friendly service. However, they stock nothing...you'll wait a bit.
http://www.powersportsplus.com/index.php?

[Rosco-Peeko]

Good god what a busy week!!!! Time to unwind. Classic rock turned up in me man cave....frosted mugs and some beer. Oh! This took me two hours....


Pulled carb, shock, front sprocket, magneto and clutch cable and clutch lifter....


Yanked motor out


Pulled reeds, and split right case/cover. Clutch basket looked really good!!!!!! Makes me happy. So did the plates.


Stripped and bagged everything up for inspection later


Lets roll for a case split....first time for these. Was very patient and worked it.


Split!


Tranny is out! Everything is bagged up and ready for inspection tomorrow.. I did find 2 bad bearings in tranny area.


Will press crank out the other side tomorrow also. Will have it rebuilt later on. Failed side gap measurement by .021  :o

[Rosco-Peeko]

Still got a bit of work to do on this. I am going to put the vanier caliper to good work today looking at everything while I have it a apart. It will be a few more weeks till I'll be riding.

The jug was sent off a few days ago to Millennium for a replate and top end. They said they would have it for about a week. I got a warm fuzzy talking with those folks. Got in a tech discussion of what their process is--kinda cool. They're pretty friendly also.

Both Mainshaft bearings are toast. They turn but have that gritty feel. The other bearings feel really good and turn easily and quietly. Most everything looks VERY good. I was surprised. The shift forks looks great, the shift fork shafts have no marring or anything on them.

I'll be placing another order here soon after I am done looking at everything. This will include top end gaskets and such. I ran an "assumed" list of what I would need. Think I am gonna rock with Apache Honda In Phoenix. Their pricing is very competitive for OEM stuff and comparable to Powersportplus.

Later on down the road, I'll have my bad crank rebuilt by Crank Works. Things are slowly coming together.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Today's progress, kinda slow...watching olympics. I did make some headway:

1) Old crank removed out of right case. Bagged up, will rebuild it later.
2) Mating surfaces (gasket) were all prepped and cleaned to spotless shine.
3) Got the idea from someones post on here. I laid one case ontop of each other and ran a .002 feeler gauge around all split lines--could NOT be inserted anywhere. I liked this idea! lets you see if there is any warpage...I am sure a leak would do the same. But that is pretty undesirable. Would like to catch it beforehand.


4) Every flippin dowel pin was rusted and stuck. I anticipated this and ordered all new ones. Pulled stuck dowels...and prepped holes by running emory cloth followed by green scrubbie to remove rust and oxidation. New ones still have machined fit and will go in now.
5) Gave my vanier caliper a good workout! Got the service manual out and ran dimensional inspections on:
A) Crank
B) Shift forks
C) Shift Fork Shafts
D) Idler Gear and Bushing
E) Kick Start Spindle
F) Clutch Springs
G) Counter and Mainshafts
H) Clutch Basket Bushing
I) Visual on Pressure Plate, Inner Basket and Clutch Basket (zero notching!!!!)
*All came out well within spec.

Old crank....healthy gap there..lol. This will get the treatment/rebuild from Crack Works later on


Got a gallon Premium Tractor Fluid coming in tomorrow to keep the tranny happy.

*I goofed, 2 bad bearings in Tranny area. 1 is Mainshaft on Clutch side and Counter shaft on Left case. I previously stated both were mainshaft.

Sean, I fancy OEM Honda stuff on rebuilds. IMO, its a solid choice and if taken care of it will last. Not looking to Eric Gorr. Got a few other things I am looking at doing to get the bike to suit me and what I'll do with it.

Steve, I will have to keep that in mind. Slowly, but surely.

Back to watching the olympics. GO USA!!!!!!!!! 8-)

I finished cleaning up my Cases. Mating surfaces cleaned up and then hit with alcohol to remove all dirt...etc. Going to go ahead and change all tranny bearings, minus the ones for the shift drum. Those are perfect and move flawless.


I took a look at tranny gears and engagement dogs. All looked good, no rounded corners. On hold for more parts.......

[Rosco-Peeko]

Got my cylinder back from Millennium and my last OEM parts order....lets proceed shall we?




Installed power valve...moves nice and smooth and with weight of flaps and new head studs. Cylinder is clean and ready for piston.


Lots of OEM parts.....


Bearings for freezer then install.


Lubed everything up with...yep tractor fluid:


I noticed everything "calmed" down and did its job quietly and smoothly...impressive.



I installed the tranny after puttin new crank and tranny bearings in...all pre-lubed with tractor fluid.

installed case halfs and checked for hang ups and made sure countershaft spun freely


set up for crank install...crank was in freezer overnight...hit bearings with torch..kerplunk! Everything dropped in place freely.




Built up clutch, shift linkage...all new seals etc. I dorked myself up a few times with some shift linkage follies but got it ironed out.



Took a really good look at waterpump--looked good!! Installed new copper wear washers and pressed forward.


Installed motor and torqued mounts. Drilled Wiseco and had to file ring down a smidge to meet limit--going to run like a stripped assed ape..pretty tight. Installed piston onto rod lubed everything up with 927...including crank...its new. Installed cylinder and head--torqued. Installed coolant lines--filled rads with engine ice. Filled tranny with tractor fluid. installed head stay and pipe. Tired...and its beer time...all in a days work.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Back together and pushing for break-in. I have to do a few heat cycles for the new crank then slide into Jerry Hall's break-in procedure.  8-)


I changed out the clutch cable (OEM) last night. Some ape bent the original at the turnbuckle so adjustment was limited. I tried to manipulate it, but it was on the verge of breaking it off.

I am very limited on time for the next few weeks (work). I am scheming on when I can sneak out and get a quick ride in. I will post up a report when I do. I still need to get a few items before the bike is completely finished. The big stuff is out of the way.

[Rosco-Peeko]

I went OEM all the way on motor build up with the exception of a single ring wiseco. My old crank is being sent off to crank works for a rebuild--hot rod trued and welded. Some say the OEM Crank is too heavy and prefer the Hot Rod Crank. I dunno, I fancy OEM stuff. When properly set up they last quite a while. I am all about reliability....walking/pushing sucks soggy buttocks.

There are some mods out there I am looking at for this bike. One step at a time. I have seen way too many people throw a plethora of aftermarket stuff at their bikes all at once...more for looks than functionality, then they wonder why their bike runs like crap. This bike will be a work in progress. Still lots of stuff I want to do with it.


Being half awake, this is the current way ahead:
1) Sprockets and X-ring (DID narrow and possibly supersprox). Whats on there now is pretty worn. The previous owners ran the crap out of the stock non o-ring dirty....all that grit really wore things down
2) Desert Tank for range.
3) Cycra's...I like my hands and levers
4) PWK to offload the ultra sensitive TMX
5) Fastway evolution pegs....running boards with cleats!
6) Fab a puke bottle
7) Some possible mild motor work...we shall see.


But for right now....I want to freaking ride!!!! lol

I took the bike for a few hours today to log in some seat time and to do some preliminary testing to see where I am sitting after the rebuild.

1) The motor is night and day from what it was prior to rebuild. The angry hit from the stocker was smoothed a bit with the fatty. For a 250...when the power valves open..its hits hard. It likes to haul ass thats for sure. I did pick up a bit of bottom end. I need to tinker with it a bit and with the power valves (hot date with mr. dremel to grind a stop down). If feels a bit fat in the middle...noticed a bit of a hesitation.

2) Initial thoughts on the suspension. I like it so far...I am not pogo'ing down the trail like I was with the stock springs..kidding of course. I hit some rocks, fallen branches and holes. Some at speed and it soaked it up nicely without any deflection or being harsh. Again, the true test will be with slick tree roots + muddy slop.

3) Thoughts: The bikes flat out rolls..lol. Its got a 13/50 right now. I really dont want to drop down to a 12. I am wondering if I can fit a 52 on the back without running any interference from the chain guide??? This next week I am picking up a DID Narrow X-ring (wont rub case and doesn't need spacer off the countershaft) and Supersprox (primary drive seems to not be in stock). There is also a PWK...creeping around that I might pick up.

More to follow.....

Did some tinkering today...got a late start. I reset my PV to see if I can muster a bit more low end out...need to hit the trails. Dont want to test my neighbors patience... This is not Edwards where I can run a heat cycle at 0200 in the am on a new crank in the 500. Woke the kids up and my wife was unimpressed...opened the garage door and smoke billowed out like a bunch rasta's had a smoke out.

I did do a COLD compression check and got 210 PSI 3 times. I would imagine it would be higher with a warm motor...etc. Might sneak out for a bit tomorrow.

I took a look at the plug and it paints a tale that I am pretty freaking close, hair bit cold. I would imagine its in the middle. It idles perfect and hits hard on top. Fart around with it later.

I am going to replace the chain and sprockets this week. The countershaft sprocket is worn a bit as is the stock non-oring chain. I really want to freaking go out on a real ride to test things out. But not before I replace these.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Haven't had much time to fart around with the bike lately. Work has kept me very busy and I just got picked up for a week long TDY leaving out this next weekend. Meh oh well, its an easy one.

I was able to set aside some time and work on the bike last night. Here is the low-down:

1) I off-loaded the stock chain and sprockets. I think the chain was being held together by dirt and the countershaft sprocket was wearing pretty good. I opted for a DID VT2 X-Ring and Supersprox. I have heard good things about the sprockets. The rear is a two-piece. The base is aluminum and the teeth is made out of tool steel. Both are riveted together into a single piece. The front sprocket looks like a renthal copy with the lightening holes.



2) I pulled the carb apart. My floats were sticking intermittently. As soon as I pulled the bowl off, I saw some dirt. Kind of annoyed me. I run an inline filter too.  >:( I removed everything...except for the TPS sensor/linkage. Thoroughly hosed everything out with Chem-Tool, wiped down and blew out with compressed air.
A) I replaced the float valve and needle. Floats move nice and smooth.
B) I took a look at my floats. I thought I checked them or misread the manual. They were not set correctly. Set them at 7.5mm.
C) Replaced vent lines/dump lines.

Now I need to go get this thing DIRTY! I was going to snag a PWK this week. I decided against it, got picked up for a trip and I want to hold off for a bit.

On the Horizon:
Cycra's
Dez Tank
Fastway Pegs
Rad Valve
PWK

I found this article and thought it was interesting:
http://motocross.transworld.net/1000020 ... potential/

[Rosco-Peeko]

Slow progress, been TDY..just got back early yesterday morning and went right into work to receive a brand spankin new jet--no rest for the weary. Got home and started to unwind and saw a box on my work-bench. My Cycra's finally got here!!!!! I should have gone to sleep.....decided to wrench instead.

I opted for the original Pro-Bends, I have had the same on my 500 for years and they can take some big abuse and still protect hands and controls! Plus they are american made!!! 8-) I did not like the CRM version, they mount up right next to the bar mounts and block off the tops of the fork tubes = tight fit on some models, no access to bleed your forks or make adjustments.

I noticed the shields were shaped differently than the ones on the 500. They seemed a bit smaller but still protect everything thats important. They have not changed in the "stout" department. I did not sink the bar ends flush. Just enough to where they will grip the bar end when tightened. Used blue Honda-Lock (cheaper and better than loc-tite) and bolted everything up.

I also off-loaded the pro-taper pillow top grips. I really did not like them. I noticed that my hands would get tired pretty quick and my left arm would start to pump. This is after I reminded myself to grip with my legs and relax. I went for some Renthal Kevlar half waffles. I heard and have read very good reviews about them.

More to follow later.....

[Rosco-Peeko]

This is right freaking now....With the PWK AS


Some may be sore at me for this. For that I am sorry. I have done a lot of reading. One of the major fixes for this bike and its anemic power spread is a PWK AS. I bought a brand new 2000 CR250  PWK AS, non TPS (flog me again).

I have read.. and read more. There is a certain point you have to draw the line and work whats good for you.

I have a bike with a anemic low end...smack you in the face with a strong mid and signs off early on the top. Not my ideal powerband for tight woods.

I ordered a 2000 CR250 PWK  AS off SH, comes jetted and ready to go. I have heard issues with running stock throttle cables in this config...not enough throw as its too short.

To counter this , although possibly not necessary I ordered a 2000 CR 250 throttle cable also. This also gave me a reason to rip my throttle apart, clean, grind down so my cycra's cause 0 interference. Lubed everything up with lithium grease....go

Set PWK at stock needle 3 clip, 178 main, 45 P. CRAP! Bike starts in 1/2 a kick!!!!!

I set throttle free play, packed ECU TPS with non water absorbing foam....wrapped with electrical tape and sealed.

I ran bike on a base perimeter road/dirt for basic jetting.....too much zing!!!! Raised clip and dorked with AS. Pipe came on nice and clean and if you press it...the front end will come up. Very smooth, SWEEET off idle roll on....good transition thought powerband for woods.

[Rosco-Peeko]

Work has really eaten up a ton of my time. Working on 2 weeks straight without a day off--it happens. It finally started to rain here. I look forward to getting some seat time after this gig we got going.

I ordered and will install next Friday:
1) Zip-Ty knurled airscrew for quick adjustments--really handy, have one on the 500.
2) TM Designworks indestructable sharkfin for the rear rotor. I really like the scotts billet one like I have on the 500, but this one is lighter....we'll see if it lives up to its name.
3) Moose magnetic drain plug--needed..possibly if I never drain the tractor fluid.

On the horizon:
IMS 3.1 natural tank
Fastway pegs
Brake mods
0.030 off the cylinder base and head squish reworked
CV4 hoses
Moose/Eline Kevlar-CF pipe guard
New rubber

Time to get dirty...

[Rosco-Peeko]

Dont quote me exactly. I ran the dimensional checks, the Moose is not as wide as the Fastways. The Moose are 57MM wide while Fastway Evo's are 82.5MM. That is a substantial difference. Not to downplay the Moose pegs, they look like great solid pegs.

Things have been slow lately, as always. Worked a few weeks straight without any time off.

Installed a homemade brake snake. It cost me less than $1 to make. Beats buying one for $8-9. Is it absolutely needed? We shall see.


Installed Zip-Ty AS..took less than 10 sec to set where my OEM AS was:


Tossed TM Designworks rear rotor guard--light and functional..


Getting tank next........

[Rosco-Peeko]

I got my tank and a few other items in and installed on the bike. I tell ya, sometimes its such a crap-shoot with getting online reviews. Its hard to tell if people sabotage themselves and blame the product. Such is the case between Clarke and IMS. "It leaks...Fit was horrid...had to send back.....etc etc."

I opted for the IMS. I have one on the 500 and it has worked fine for a long time. Why on earth do I need a 3.1G tank? Well, because I want the range and I dont want to carry extra gas in my camelbak pouch. Plus the black OEM tank is black, hard as hell to see where the gas is at when filling till you're about ready to spill all over the place.

Fit was good, I had to hog the holes out on the supplied "L" bracket that mounts the tank to the frame up by the steering head. Other than that I had no issues, no leaks. I have plenty of room between the motor and the tank to fiddle with crap if I need to.




Installed a moose magnetic drain plug...no brainer. I had an off idle surge last weekend. Found and fixed airleak.... Need to dial my pilot in now.Bought a bar pad, cut out a section for my damper and we're ready to go.


On horizon..
Moose Pegs
Moose Pipe Guard
Brake work
Cylinder and Head off to Roosty

[Rosco-Peeko]

So after a long wait to get my "High Risk Activity Form" signed by my Commander, I got it done. Long story short, if you do any kind of activity that can cause bodily harm, you're supposed to get this thing signed off. If you dont and you get hurt...thats your @ss and possibly your stripes. Plus they can deny your medical benefits. I am sure they will issue us bubbles soon...  :P

I snuck out early from work Friday and made haste over to Ft. Lewis ORV. I needed  to run the bike really quick and see where my getting was at. It felt decent but a bit too zingy in the middle and top. I didn't have much time fart around with it the sun was going down in in less than 30 minutes..it was rainy and cool 46 degrees--perfect! Loaded up the bike and went home and bumped the main up one and prepped for Saturday a morning ride.

I met up with the Shark and we did a 30 mile loop in here. It was raining like a mother--- out. So the trails were empty except for the hippy walking down the trails with his dog to check his harvest.
http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trai ... e_e8b4.htm

The bike felt really good! Jetting was almost perfect and the suspension ate everthing we threw at it. Very impressive. Some of the trails were wide, some were not so much and loaded with roots, rocks, twisties and lots and lots of water. I got into a rythem and was banking some of the turns, most of them blind only to find a quagmire or tall slimey roots right in front of me. Stood up, blipped the throttle--up and over. Not an issue. The power was great, decent low end with a pipey mid and top. The bike runs strong. Dustin warned me about some of the puddles. They really look harmless until your motor is almost completely submerged...  ;D

Dustin/Landshark is riding a 09 KTM 300. I let him try my 250, said he really liked it and noted that its pretty pipey compared to the 300 but loved the set-up.

I still have a few things I want to do to this bike. Rubber is high on the list. I hit the black mud and I was all over the place. My list--plus some newer gear.
Boyeson Rad Valve /Exhaust Flange
Moose Pro Pegs
Brake work
Moose Pipe Guard

First Break, you can see the Tahuya river below. Yes the bike is clean...thats how much standing water is in this place. ;D

[Rosco-Peeko]

Because well enough is not good sometimes. I thought I sealed my airbox up enough--apparently not. I took the same approach as I did on the 500. I suspected a small leak still existed...

So with that, have you checked your airbox seal lately? I know the 500's had an issue also. So I ripped it all apart and the seal was literally rotting and fell apart.




I used some permatex and sealed it up--would be impossible for it to leak now. Not a fan of those chintzy foam gaskets. I might opt for the metal ring seals later:
http://www.mxbonz.com/cnc_airbox_fix.htm

I also ripped my linkage all apart, cleaned and greased. My bike was halfway submerged in water last weekend. Pulling the 500 apart and going to freshen it up for Odessa 100. Rolling with 2 people. Should be a blast.
http://stumpjumpers.org/desert100/

Riding tomorrow... 8-)

[Rosco-Peeko]

So, I thought I would post this up. I had an incident on the 250. This is a place of learning, hanging out and meeting new folks. I am pretty pissed off....  >:( Maybe we can learn something from this. I will...

Part of the equation:
1) Gas was a week old kept in old C-12 metal can out of sunlight
 A) Mixed with 927 at 32:1
 B) Amsoil Octane Boost to push an extra 4-5 points even tho it
     it says 7.
 C) Treated with Stabil with Anti-Ethanol crap
2) Was a cool day out at 40 with sun shining, I shook the crap out of gas before putting it in the 250. I know at colder temps castor likes to separate.
3) Bike is jetted, I screwed the AS in a tad to compensate for the 10 degree temp difference.
4) 38MM PWK AS Twist top, CEJ Needle middle slot, 180 Main and 42 Pilot.
5) Top end is 5 hours old as is new replate. Everything is torqued and verified.
6) Filter was just cleaned and reoiled wit FFS. Was sloppy wet from last ride. Some water injestion is very feasible. I might as well have a ski on the front wheel in some places. Very very wet here.

Bike ran good as always. No problem lifting the front end through some whoops. Wasn't pinging and didn't have any lean surge's. Got out in an open area and started running through gears and it locked up on me. I new right then and there what happened. I have never stuck a piston but have read and heard all the stories. Now I am trying to make sense of it...

Nice metal transfer. The piston is locked in bore and did not fragment.


Kind of a bad shot


The Wiseco took a healthy crap on the exhaust side. Yes it was drilled per the instructions. 2 holes at correct spacing and size.


Plug, there is some red stuff, thats from my shop rags. There is a black ring at the base of the insulator for the main. Not in pics.



I am going to rebuild it, this time with a cast piston. I am sure the cylinder will need a replate. The crank turns fine and no crap made its way down in there. I can see some 927 pooling down there. It obvious that I lost my oil buffer between the piston and cylinder = squeak. The why is what I am looking for..

Things that will be done differently this time:
Cast Piston Possibly OEM $65..
Build a leakdown tester. While I am OCD with maintenance practices. I am not without fault. :-/

Already got plans to get it back on the trail. I understand with the airscrew, the bike is jetted for current temps here. I adjusted the AS for the cooler than normal morning.  The 180 main is the stock main jet which would be "fat from the factory." They only thing different is the pilot is leaner, I have a 42 in and the stock is 48.

A few more pics of cylinder:


Close up of bridge area:


The piston, 66.4mm Wiseco. Some said that was my first mistake..