Tubliss - Tips and Tricks

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Gmbond
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Joined: September 14th, 2009, 7:17 pm
Location: Ontario Canada

Tubliss - Tips and Tricks

Post by Gmbond »

Hey, I'm just about to try out my first set of Tubliss inserts and i know some people have had a lot of experience and swear by these now... I've also been told to stay away, that they are unreliable and shouldn't be trusted.

I've got them mounted on the rims with no problem, installed my first set of tires (crazy easy to get a tire onto the wheel) torqued and inflated, and they seem to hold air just fine, but i haven't riden on them yet.

Seanmx57 and 2Strokeforever, i'm really hoping for some input from you guys as you both seem to really love these.

Thanks
scooter5002
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Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
Location: Tillsonburg On

Post by scooter5002 »

No PERSONAL experience Mike, but feel free to post that up on VitalMX. That should start a 9 page fire fight over the stupidity of using or not using one. Lol. Thank God there's at least ONE sane board left to discuss shit on.
Hammer
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Joined: November 16th, 2008, 6:07 pm
Location: Carlsbad Ca.
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Post by Hammer »

I have been riding them on 2 bikes for over 2 years.
Love them for rocky sections.

I had 1 flat
Problem was it didn't feel like a flat because,
the inner bladder held the tire on the rim.
The front tire rolled a little coming out of a fast corner,
went over the bars and tumbled to a stop.

I now fill the tire with 4 oz. of tire not the tube grade Slime.

No flats since last June.
91 CR 500, Ca. plated.
09 CRF 450X
XR 650L
2000 CR 250R
2006 CRF 150F
http://www.hammonconstruction.org/
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2strokeforever
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Location: Vernon B.C Canada

Post by 2strokeforever »

tubliss rock

the trick is to use either lots of soapy water, or smear some slime on the tubliss where it seals the bead
also when your putting the last part of the bead on take really small bites so you dont fold over the edge of the bead, lubing tire irons helps too


for your first few months youre gonna want to check pressure before every ride till you get the feel for it, as mentioned you could ride all day with a flat and not notice if the tire is stiff

mine usualy had a slow leak for the first 3 months till i started figuring out the tricks

what kind of riding are you doing? what rim size? what tires you plan on running
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
seanmx57
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Joined: January 1st, 2009, 2:28 pm

Post by seanmx57 »

Stiff sidewall tires are supposed to be THE setup to run. I'm still buring off rubber I've got stashed and waiting for the tublis brand tires to come out soon before buying more rubber. Prolly cost a fortune with oil prices up like they have been.

There is a long thread in the product forum on cr500riders with plenty of info on them. Calling Jeff at nuetec is helpfull if you have ?'s

Chris what's this "slime" you speak of?

3 months on a tire, you woods boys must not spin your wheels much........Of course I toss tires that you would run for a good bit longer from the pics of your rear wheels I've seen.
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2strokeforever
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Post by 2strokeforever »

Stiff sidewall tires are supposed to be THE setup to run
thats not what i have had luck with, so far i like the super thin sidewall tires, VE33 and M5B. running low pressures

last race i ran a 70% 140 s12 rear and i have to say that was the worst tire i have ever ran.... 0 traction and deflecting off every rock, also was running 4psi (desperate to get some traction) and i heard the rim get hit a few times. im gonna blame all this on the thick sidewall

no idea how i managed to get 3rd expert with that tire and a worn out front?

i think the only reason the s12 exists is to make trials tires seem good :lol:

http://www.slime.com/shop/tire-sealant/

that was 3 months of changing tires once a month, first 3 tires needed to be pumped up every ride, till i started using lots of soapy water or slime
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
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other
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Joined: January 25th, 2010, 5:11 am
Location: Perth Hills, Western Australia

Post by other »

Make sure the seat where the bead seals is REALLY clean, and lube with lots of Windex glass cleaner spray . . . . easy peasy. When the wheels are back on your bike, squirt half a cup of good quality sealant (Slime is a good one) into the low pressure valve (the one that shares with the 'rim lock'. Sorry to state the fuckin obvious, but I've seen someone put it in the bladder . . . . ) That sucker will NEVER leak as long as the bladder is pumped up to about 100psi, and is all but puncture proof. Seriously, I believe this is the best money you can spend on a dirt bike !
seanmx57
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Joined: January 1st, 2009, 2:28 pm

Post by seanmx57 »

S12's aren't particularlly thick sidewalls.

Maxxis desert IT's rear
Bridgestone ED 77 and 78 (enduro tires)
Dunlop 739 AT and D908 (more enduro tires)

These are all stiff sidewall tires that work well with little air in a tubliss system
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Gmbond
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Location: Ontario Canada

Post by Gmbond »

That's the kind of real world info I was looking for...

I've been running tire balls set at 6psi, which has been a pretty unstoppable system... But it is very time consuming to change tires or to check pressures involves taking the tire off and using a needle valve to set 75 balls one by one.

Good news is they don't bleed down, you can have many multiple balls flat and not even know it.

I'm starting with using the tubliss for play riding and will stick with tire balls for racing.
seanmx57
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Post by seanmx57 »

I've heard from the owner of nuetec that guys racing paris to dakar have run the maxxis desert IT with 0 PSI and had no problems. :shock:

He recommends 4 PSI on it
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Gmbond
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Location: Ontario Canada

Post by Gmbond »

I'll have to pick up a maxxis desert IT then to try, i used a well worn one and was surprised at how well it still hooked up despite the wear. only rode on it for two short rides though.

I find brand new sharp tires to be a little unpredictable sometimes, especially on grass... and i probably run my tires a little longer than i should, usually til knobs are coming off on the front. but with the tire balls at super low pressure they hook up so well... it is hard on the sidewalls though with all the flexing.

How much slime are you using in each tire?

I've got a pirelli scorpion XCMH mounted on the front, and a 120/18 Kenda trackmaster on the rear (i've had great luck with these for off-road abuse and at $50 a pop cant' beat the price)
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2strokeforever
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Location: Vernon B.C Canada

Post by 2strokeforever »

How much slime are you using in each tire?
i dont run any, just a smear on the sealing surface of the tubliss
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
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other
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Joined: January 25th, 2010, 5:11 am
Location: Perth Hills, Western Australia

Post by other »

Depending on the likelihood of spiking a tyre where you ride, it is worthwhile running half a cup (about quarter of the recommended for a car tyre) in each tyre. If you are unlucky enough to spike a tyre, it will 'heal' without you even knowing it's done it ! The stuff for mountain bikes seems to work the best (cant remember the brand at the moment, but it's white, not green like the Slime ). I've seen it seal a 1/4" tear on a mate's front tyre, without him being any the wiser until we were loading them back on my ute . . . .
Iceman
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Joined: January 16th, 2008, 9:59 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

tubliss

Post by Iceman »

This is the 3rd season on mine and I like them.
I always use a new tires and uses about 1/2 cup of slime as well.
2002 CR500 AFC
FMF fatty, V-force, 39PWK, Dyno Port engine, EGT
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