BannedCR500Riders.com

When I put the tube on the rim, there are two nuts for the valve. Do I place one nut on the outside and one on the inside of the rim? Or both nuts on the outside of the rim? I've seen it both ways and I'm not sure which is better.

I do it like this...

One nut on the outside, jammed against the valve stem cap.

If you lock the tube down to the rim, and the tire shifts ... it will rip the tube off the stem, and the fun is over.

ahh, a novel idea. I might just use that method. I'll be running without rimlocks.

B440 wrote:ahh, a novel idea. I might just use that method. I'll be running without rimlocks.

I wouldn't do that...you need them on any bike especially the 500. I leave the nut on the inside the one on the outside I do similar to Bob in that I don't tighten it up so if it rotates I don't have to leave the party, only difference is instead of jamming it up against the cap I throw it as far as I can.

Why no rimlocks, you can buy new ones all over the place.

Maybe he's going to run screws???

You def. got to run something even on the front , it will move!!!!!

I use these instead of the nuts supplied with the tubes, just how Honda supplied the wheels when they were new:



Keeps crap out of the rim and if your tire goes flat the tube will get sucked in vs having the stem rip off.

I have (2) rim locks on my rear tire running 12psi and it still moved. Increased to 14 and its been stable for a little while now.

From http://www.your-adrenaline-fix.com/changing-tires.html

Finishing a Tire or Tube Replacement
Once everything is inflated and looking good, tighten the rim lock securely but do NOT install the nut that comes with a new tube onto the valve stem. Not installing this nut on the valve stem allows the valve stem to shift and not be ripped out of the tube if the tire should slip, as is common on bikes with a lot of power, or with riders that keep the bike hooked up. What's even better than this nut is to get an OEM Honda Valve Stem Grommet that comes stock on a new Honda dirt bike's tire valve stem, and install these on both front and rear valve stems, then install the cap.

tubliss.... no slipping ever, even at 2 psi

2strokeforever wrote:tubliss.... no slipping ever, even at 2 psi

Yeah I know...but $99 each is holding me back still.

Dual sport. It's easier to balance the tires without the rimlocks. And the tire pressures will be higher

No rimlock on a CR500 = disaster....

B440 wrote:Dual sport. It's easier to balance the tires without the rimlocks.

I run these on my XR650 w/ rimlocks.... easy - peasy.

I've had em move with 3 rim locks..........Landing from jumps with new rubber in high gears wide open MXing.

Toss the little nut in the tire iron bucket. All they are good for is holding the valve stem out when airing up the tube. Run the rubber that came with the wheel from honda in the pic above. Keeps things cleaner.

Dealer cost on those tubliss is $70. Jimmah had some in the classifieds the other day, prolly still has them.

All my wheels sans the ice wheels are going tubliss. TRACTION is the name of the game.

seanmx57 wrote: TRACTION is the name of the game.

Run this....


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UythUroe ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

Tips:
1) A trials tire will require some change to your riding style, as it gets its traction from gripping as opposed to the digging and throwing done by a knobby. Try not to spin as much and it will reward you very nicely.

2) On hills be careful as you may find your front end wheeling up much easier and looping out more easliy.

3) Tighten down the rimlock(s) very, very securely or it will slip on the rim due to the exceptional grip and low pressure.

4) Cracks will likely appear at the back side base of the knobs, due to braking. Cracks will also likely appear first at the front side base of the knobs, due to acceleration. Do not panic, the knobs are quite secure for offroad high power application. I have never had a knob rip off.

5) The tire does not work well on steeper hills in deep loose dry material like sand or cinder.

Good ole #5 puts those things out of the game.

Tubliss, all the way, every day ! They fuckin rock. As reliable as a mousse, without being such a britincali to change, or requiring the regular lubrication. Requires very little pressure on the 'rim lock' nut, coz there is a rim lock bladder full circumference of the rim/tyre. Seriously, best money you'll ever spend on a dirt bike, and when you move the bike on, rip 'em out, slip in a tube, and then bang them straight into the new scoot. Beautiful thing.

SO there must be a dealer or shop in my area that puts one nut on top and one under the rim because I see it all the time. And now I know first hand what happens when you do that (KX100 rim):


Picture sucks but you can make out the pitted area where the nut sat and took a chunk out of the rim

Rhino89523 wrote:Good ole #5 puts those things out of the game.

I disagree. Remove #5 from the equation, there is no game. They are that much better everywhere else.

other wrote:Tubliss, all the way, every day ! They fuckin rock. As reliable as a mousse, without being such a britincali to change, or requiring the regular lubrication. Requires very little pressure on the 'rim lock' nut, coz there is a rim lock bladder full circumference of the rim/tyre. Seriously, best money you'll ever spend on a dirt bike, and when you move the bike on, rip 'em out, slip in a tube, and then bang them straight into the new scoot. Beautiful thing.

Tubliss is nowhere near as reliable as a mousse, a good rim ding or compromised sidewall and you are hosed.

I do run Tubliss with a D803 trials tire for trail riding though and the combo has proven to be great for making me feel like a better rider than I really am, haha.

a 18" ve33 with tubliss and 5 lbs does the same thing as the tt in bobs vid, but it has knobs and climbs, and it grips everywhere all the time, and if you manage to break loose it still keeps pullling hard

o and its not gay....