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I tried searching but found nothing. I am looking at buying a V-Force 3 reed setup and see that there are spacer kits available. How do you know what spacing is required? Would I be ok just buying the reed setup and a new gasket? Thanks Les.

10mm / 3/8 however its labeled

Thanks Roosty!

You should be fine without the spacer and the VForce comes with
gaskets

I'm running the same setup on my bike. I started with the spacer but
that pushed the carb back into the shock spring, so I removed the spacer,
added a second gasket between the VForce and the intake flange and
everything works as advertised.

dogger

with spacer
[/quote]

some castings are different and the reed pedals and housing contact the cylinder, beyond that the 3/8 spacer should be used to unshroud every reed block except the VF2

Would it matter between a PWK or a PJ carb?

notta

some castings are different and the reed pedals and housing contact the cylinder

I have heard about some quality control issues with the VForce 3s,
though I haven't experienced any first hand. I have dozens of 3s
and each one is identical in dimension to the next. On my 500
with essentially a stock bore, the reed is safely recessed in the
intake with room to spare.

I ran the extra gasket because I had heard about possible piston
contact. I'm wondering now if it's more of a case of a few bad
parts combined with big over bores. Regardless, if it's even
remotely possible, and you have the room, I agree - run the
spacer, it certainly can't hurt and it's worth the extra peace of
mind.

dogger

the reed will not contact the piston in the 500, it will contact the corners of the reed housing and in some of the newer cylinders the width of the reed fits tight from crappy casting finish.

I was refering to the honda parts not the vforce having issues

I was refering to the honda parts not the vforce having issues

OK, that makes a lot more sense. I have definitely experienced QC
issues with Honda castings. Looks like I didn't have any problems with
the VForce and my 500 cylinder because EG matched the intake and
exhaust to the reed and pipe flange when he did the port work.

Thanks for clearing that up.

dogger

What would be better with the VF3 compared to stock reed case with power Reeds? What difference will i notice?

Johnny

The VForce design doubles the reed surface over a stock setup. This
results in improved flow even though the petals travel a shorter
distance. VForce claims improved throttle response and more
power along with longer reed petal life.

From personal experience doing A/B comparisons, the VForce does
help with throttle response. The additional power claim is harder
to quantify.

dogger

Ok! Thanks for the info, dogger!

dogger315 wrote:The VForce design doubles the reed surface over a stock setup. This
results in improved flow even though the petals travel a shorter
distance. VForce claims improved throttle response and more
power along with longer reed petal life.

From personal experience doing A/B comparisons, the VForce does
help with throttle response. The additional power claim is harder
to quantify.

dogger

Your got the exact same VF3 reed / PWK 39.5mm carb setup I'm running and I agree with a more crisp / instant throttle response but as for overall power gains its reallly hard to tell. Not really interested in dropping any clams on a few dyno pulls either. I'd rather use the money to buy more nice new parts for my old clunkers

I was up at a guys house who had a frame modded by Animal Power in Youngstown Ohio. Was showing me all the goodies he'd bought to go along with the AF conversion. Including a brand new, still in the box VF3. I told him based on what 100hp had mentioned when I asked about it here, that there might be fitment issues. Sure enough, It tried to slide it in and no go. Hit the inside of the intake. He was pissed, but at least he knew before trying to assemble the bike for the 1st ride. It was, at the time, still awhile away from completion. Due in part to APs shortchanging him on the job. Anyone know anything about that shop?

A guy I know had the animal power conversion (it's the billy bee honey bee shrouded gen3). I haven't seen it up close, just some photos and my pet peeve is the 90* sharp edge square tubing used to redo the cradle.

I just don't get why when the radius edge is easily available.

When I installed the VF3 on my 95 they fit right in. The only thing is that it had a brand new Honda cylinder on it so that may have been the reason.

Well, from what I gathered, my buddy was having an experience that I refer to as "The Fanelli Syndrome". He was getting jerked around and the guys idea of a headstay was a cobbled up, horrid looking piece of shit with gobby looking welds on it. Sounds like there's more than one guy out there whose standards on workmanship are similar to "The Toledo Terror. I just don't get some people, but I guess they can live with themselves, apparently. As long as they can crank shit out and make a quick buck, fine with them.

I went to install my V Force 3 reeds tonight and the stock boot has the 2 tabs sticking out of it. Do you just cut them off or should I have ordered the Vforce boot? Also the reed block has a plastic insert in it. Do you leave this in or take it out?

did it come with instructions? nuts, bolts, washers?

It only came with washers, nuts a broucher and a few stickers. no instructions

dammn. the washers are for you to use between the old cage and old boot, a space for the hacksaw to go as you cut the tounges off.
Do that, and if you need to trim them down more to make it flush use a belt sander if available.

Thanks Adam. What about the plastic piece? Should I leave it in the reed cage?

yes

I didn't really care for the "hacksaw" method on the carb boot myself. If you get sloppy with your stroking the saw you are going to chunk up the sealing surface. I suggest getting a very sharp knife (a filet knife works well) and a little oil. The knife will want to stick in the rubber as you are slicing through it but the oil will help. Just go slow and its better to not cut enough and trim it later then to get it all chunked up and be screwed with it not sealing.