Suspension work?

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NightBiker07
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Suspension work?

Post by NightBiker07 »

did some digging in the approved vendors section, couldnt find anything.

Does anyone have any recommendations for sending out suspension to get worked on?

I can rebuild the seals/sliders on forks, but thats about it.

Unless someone has done rear shock rebuilding and can offer words of encouragement.
These guys make it seem easy http://www.blazeofgloryoffroad.com/2010 ... shock.html


I just found out the rear shock on my 250 is blown. the clickers for rebound and compression are set at FULL hard, and the bike rides softer than my 500AF does set to full soft.

Odd thing is, I LOVE the way the 250 handles. It flies straight, lands straight and soft and doesnt bottom unless I overshoot or case, takes whoops like a champ and rides plush as can be on the trails.....And ive had more than a few people ride my bike. All have commented on how soft it is, but none have complained about errant handling. I'm not sure what to make of it.
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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MojoScojo
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Post by MojoScojo »

I've used this guy a couple times now.

http://www.moto-pro.com/

He works out of his garage. Avid rider. Does his homework complete with telemetry on at least 6 different new bikes a year. Good prices. Stellar results.
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying.
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seanmx57
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Post by seanmx57 »

I got a bunch of 2000 CR250 shocks I should sell off, if you need one let me know.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

seanmx57 wrote:I got a bunch of 2000 CR250 shocks I should sell off, if you need one let me know.
they in good shape? I dont really want an old shock on its last leg, then i'd be stuck with 2 blown ones and still have to get one rebuilt
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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iggys-amsoil
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Post by iggys-amsoil »

After riding my 94 250 this weekend I have come to really aperiate what Steve (the owner) at Shock therapy has done to my AF for track riding.
I always figured set it up for outdoor MX and it will be good for the trails too.

www.shocktherapyracing.net

Tell him I sent you or you race with Vet X racing and he may give something off.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

replacing bushing and seals on the forks and shock is easy. can do all of it on a saturday. did 2 honda and a yamaha so far. havent tore into my ktm yet but it will probly be easiest of all. something tells me you dont have a manual or you wouldnt be asking if its difficult :roll: :D
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

100hp honda wrote:replacing bushing and seals on the forks and shock is easy. can do all of it on a saturday. did 2 honda and a yamaha so far. havent tore into my ktm yet but it will probly be easiest of all. something tells me you dont have a manual or you wouldnt be asking if its difficult :roll: :D
I do have a manual for my CR250. But the manual also makes it look easy to tear the top half of the fork apart......And I thought you needed special equipment to charge the shock?
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

its all pretty easy. with oem honda book you wont have a problem. after its back together most any shop can refill nitrogen. 5-10$ depending what shop
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

100hp honda wrote:its all pretty easy. with oem honda book you wont have a problem. after its back together most any shop can refill nitrogen. 5-10$ depending what shop
I thought the charge process was really touchy, to where trying to fill and check with a tire fill/gauge would throw it off? There dont seem to be too many suspension shops around here. Ive yet to see even one, and the dealerships farm out a lot of work.
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

you dont use a tire gauge. they hook it to a tank with a gauge built into the line and fill it. takes a few seconds and its done. dont put a tire gauge on afterwards or all your shit will excape.
scooter5002
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Post by scooter5002 »

Do NOT use a tire gauge. You need the special valve/gauge all in one tool. It's WAY more accurate and precise in the delivery of Nitrogen. Basically, it screws onto the Schraeder valve on the shock, and you turn a t-handle to crack the Schraeder. The nitrogen tank is turned on, and the regulator (like the ones on oxy/acetylene tanks) is preset to the pressure required in the shock. Turn the valve on the filling tool, and the shock is filled. The valve is closed, then the t-handle is closed, sealing the shock closed with EXACTLY the amount of nitrogen you need. IF you watch the shop do this, it will all make sense. Tire guages are for tires, Nightbiker. Not this job. :wink:
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gregrobo
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Post by gregrobo »

tyre guages also dont read high enough anyways
only posties ride 4 stroke hondas
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Gmbond
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Post by Gmbond »

I'll openly admit that aside from changing a few fork seals, I'm pretty happy to just drop my stuff off at a local shop (Machine Racing LGS) that is known for suspension work, and let them handle it.

Ive found I can pretty much bolt it back on, set the say and go ride, I have barely ever touched a clicker or messed with them afterwards.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

scooter5002 wrote: Tire guages are for tires, Nightbiker. Not this job. :wink:
Kind of what I figured. I'm going to buy a shock off of seanmx57 in the future. if he sells them before I get to it, then Ill send mine out to get rebuilt
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

its your money but im saying a suspension rebuild is child play. factory connection is $100, plus parts, plus round trip shipping. 2 bills should cover it :)
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

100hp honda wrote:its your money but im saying a suspension rebuild is child play. factory connection is $100, plus parts, plus round trip shipping. 2 bills should cover it :)
Sort of what I was thinking. I'm also gonna dig more into a shop that rebuilds suspension locally, Gotta support the local guys when we can!
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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REV
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Post by REV »

I have not used this guy but I plan on using him as my secret weapon! His name is Pete Russell in Spokane, WA. Company NOST web http://www.nostsuspension.com/
During NAHA Rnd 1 a gentlemen turned me on to Pete, he had him work some vintage suspension and gentlemen was Very impressed could and not believe the difference stating "Pete is very Creative and thinks outside the box"my kinda guy.So I called Pete up and it just so happened he had just returned from a dyno test lab some big well known facility where NASA and Ferrari test suspension...Well I guess his suspension tested beyond anything the facility has EVER seen.
Like I said have not used him and guess no longer a secret but I still would like to use him as a weapon tell Him Kevin Bergquist the hill climber from California sent you...Its all about putting the Power to the Ground
DIE TRYN!!!
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

If you dont want to revalve and all you want to do is replace the seal head, doing a shock is actually easier than doing forks. Its not rocket science. The only thing that can not be done with just basic tools is refilling the nitrogen. There are several places on the web with step-by-step instructions on how do do a KYB/Showa shock with photos. If the shock is off and on the bench anyone can do it in under an hour, less the nitrogen. I can do a shock rebuild with no revalve in about 30 minutes if its already off the bike and on the bench.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

Kartwheel68 wrote:If you dont want to revalve and all you want to do is replace the seal head, doing a shock is actually easier than doing forks. Its not rocket science. The only thing that can not be done with just basic tools is refilling the nitrogen. There are several places on the web with step-by-step instructions on how do do a KYB/Showa shock with photos. If the shock is off and on the bench anyone can do it in under an hour, less the nitrogen. I can do a shock rebuild with no revalve in about 30 minutes if its already off the bike and on the bench.
very well said. and he has the honda book for assistance. not sure exact parts youll need, probly better to tear it apart first and see. several o rings on there you might want to replace. not a bad idea to get new nut for the end of the damper rod, mine was peened over so i got new one. new seal but on yours i dont know if its part of the rod giude. micro fish shows a seal set so i dont know. be good time to do the top spherical bearing if its shot. dude its easy just tear into it and get a list for what you need. make sure the bladder is still good.
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Post by 100hp honda »

seems like there is a bronze bushing deal also. piston ring i think was the technical term
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

Just order a complete seal head, it already has all the o-rings and seals installed, several companies like Moose make them.

Image

Pivot Works also sells a complete kit with seal head, bump rubber (which probably needs to be replaced and you have to take the shock apart to do it, so it would be wise to do it while you already have it apart), and reservoir bladder for $89.

Take off the nut, slide off the valve and shim stack, slide off the seal head, reinstall new seal head, valve and shim stack in reverse order.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

Kartwheel68 wrote:Just order a complete seal head, it already has all the o-rings and seals installed, several companies like Moose make them.

Image

Pivot Works also sells a complete kit with seal head, bump rubber (which probably needs to be replaced and you have to take the shock apart to do it, so it would be wise to do it while you already have it apart), and reservoir bladder for $89.

Take off the nut, slide off the valve and shim stack, slide off the seal head, reinstall new seal head, valve and shim stack in reverse order.
Is that what is wrong though? i mean, it doesnt leak oil, but the suspension is extremely soft, like the clickers are at full hard and it has no effect whatsoever.

the rubber bottom-stop is about toast, so it will need replaced for sure.

I have no reason to think the shock has no oil in it, the reservoir still gets hot when I ride, and i would think if it was oilless, in the 4 years Ive been riding it it would have siezed up by now.
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

around here we dont use aftermarket moose or pivot works :roll: :lol:. that chinese garbage dont fly with me. j/k dude :lol: . dont want to step on toes but i recomend he go with oem stuff but either way i dont care its his money. you may be right, seems like that seal head deal is the complete package of stuff needed. theres other wear items besides that seal that should be replaced while you in that far though. that brass bushing deal i was talking about. also rubber orings on the little clicker deal of the resorvior. they dont move but no sense in reusing $2 orings that are 10 years old. i think theres is 1 or 2 more $2 orings on that piston mechanism that i would replace also but thats just me. maybe i went over board on my shock rebuild but i also replaced the bladder. compresses in/out and sits in oil continuosly. for $10 i wasnt gonna reuse the old one. regardless if you only replace a couple things or alot of stuff your still going to save tons of cash over what a shop would charge.
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Post by AlisoBob »

NightBiker07 wrote:Is that what is wrong though? i mean, it doesnt leak oil, but the suspension is extremely soft, like the clickers are at full hard and it has no effect whatsoever.
The shock oil is bypassing the valving by going around the piston.

The #1 reason for losing the piston seal is the shock bore is fudged up....

I would take it apart first, before spending much money on it.

The nut is peened on, DO NOT just run it off with an impact... it will destory the threads.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

AlisoBob wrote:
NightBiker07 wrote:Is that what is wrong though? i mean, it doesnt leak oil, but the suspension is extremely soft, like the clickers are at full hard and it has no effect whatsoever.
The shock oil is bypassing the valving by going around the piston.

The #1 reason for losing the piston seal is the shock bore is fudged up....

I would take it apart first, before spending much money on it.

The nut is peened on, DO NOT just run it off with an impact... it will destory the threads.
if the bore is destroyed, what are the options? new shock?

when you say destroyed, arre you talking bore scoring? I have the skill but NOT the tools to check for bore defects like warpage, out of roundness, etc.

Peened on nut. does it have to be cut off?

I'm not against tearing it apart, I just dont want to get it back together and have an ill-handling creature :lol:
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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