BannedCR500Riders.com

I know... the dreaded carb set up questions...lol

First let me tell you what I was chasing. I built my A/F with a PJ. 170 main, 1369 Needle in the top clip (lean) 50 pilot A/S at 1-3/4 out. Starts 1 kick and idles great. On the track it feels a little blubbery down low and then hits very hard in the mid. I have played with the A/S in and out and it does little to change this, just affects the idle. I was always told the shared idle/choke circuit on the PJ is problematic, so I bought a 39 PWK

I started off with the PWK at 170 Main, 1472 needle and 42 pilot. Bike was hard to get started and would not idle. Turned idle screw all the way in and bike will start but not idle. A/S is out 2 turns and may even want more, so Im thinking its rich still.

I am in San Antonio, its still 100F here and Im at 4-500 feet above sea level... If anyone has suggestions, please send them. I would hate to be going back to the PJ, but if it works better I will.

Zach

[img[/img]

is it just me or does that pipe look like your on the lean hot side?

What slide do you have in it? I have an airstriker with a 7.0 slide and 55 idle jet and it seems lean but that's just running without load, when I wack the throttle it falls on it's face, my next move is to raise the needle, if that doesn't work then go with an even bigger jet.
I had it working pretty good with a 6.5 slide but sold the carb that it went to, I may have to locate another one before I get it all straightened out.

I have a 6.0 same as what I had in the PJ. Plug is pretty dark, so Im doubting the color is from being lean... I use the bike for moto only, so Im not holding it wide open down a fire road or anything.

I just swapped to a 38 pilot and it seems much better.

go buy a CGL, CGM, DGK, DGL, DGM needle and go from there, it will be the best $25.25 you ever spend

By the color on that pipe you're definitely running lean.

The IDLE SCREW:



This is the black plastic one that comes on most all PWk's. To make it idle on a CR500, it needs to be nearly bottomed out. I've even seen bikes where you needed to cut a little off the coil spring to relieve the coil bind condition.



This is the brass idle screw thats available. It seems a tad longer than the black plastic one.

In either case, you need to get the slide open far enough to be able to get a "high idle", so at that point you can turn it down to the proper speed.

Your pilot , needle, and main are all close enough to work.

Sounds like you might have something else going on.

[quote="TYSTYX"]By the color on that pipe you're definitely running lean.[/quote

Maybe its just the lighting in the picture. Lean it is not.. Plug is black, sputters and burbles down low. I dropped the needle and presto... bike idles, its crisp and no burble....

here is a different angle of pipe color.
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AlisoBob wrote:The IDLE SCREW:



This is the black plastic one that comes on most all PWk's. To make it idle on a CR500, it needs to be nearly bottomed out. I've even seen bikes where you needed to cut a little off the coil spring to relieve the coil bind condition.



This is the brass idle screw thats available. It seems a tad longer than the black plastic one.

In either case, you need to get the slide open far enough to be able to get a "high idle", so at that point you can turn it down to the proper speed.

Your pilot , needle, and main are all close enough to work.

Sounds like you might have something else going on.

Thanks Bob... No nothing else going on, just needed to screw around with needle and pilot. I think the 100F temp is making it a tad harder to base line. I dropped the needle and set A/S at 1.5 out. All of a sudden it idles, and runs nice...lol

I should have just played with it a little more instead of thinking I had a problem.
BTW, where do i get the longer brass screw?

AMA714 wrote:I dropped the needle and set A/S at 1.5 out. All of a sudden it idles, and runs nice...lol

http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/pro ... d=MTEwMA==



This is a must have item...

If you get the brass screw a bit longer than necessary you can put on a wing nut and either locktite it or run another regular nut to hold it. Then you could adjust it on the fly like the zip tye screw.

Thanks for the help boys... I knew I was close with the PJ. I had Kent Howerton take it for a ride last weekend at Cycle Ranch. I figured if anyone knows how a 500 is supposed to feel it would be Kent. Anyway, he came back grinning and told me im rich down low.. Been chasing it since.

Dont get me wrong, the bike is awesome.. Im just trying to make it smooth off the bottom so it doesnt need to be clutched to get on the pipe.

I just found a FMF fatty and replaced the PC. Wow, so much more torque. I seems to have even more middle hit which I want to smooth out. But I do like the bottom pull.

zip ty airscrew

This is a must have item...

X2, i paid $45 for mine and it was worth it, even tho its really only worth 10

OK, so with the pilot a 38 and A/S 1-3/4 out seems to be good. Im back to 1 kick to start, and idles fine. Once i pull away its all garbley and blubbery before cleaning out . Up top its good.

So I dropped the needle (1472) top clip. Cleaned it up, but still blubbery. What is the next series of needle that will get me leaner off the bottom?

1472 is a DGN, so should i try a DGQ (1474)?? or go leaner?

If you feel you need something leaner than the DGN, something isnt rightl.

Have you checked and set your float level?

Well I just learned a valuable lesson today... My 1472 needle, was a OEM KTM needle.. Apparently the 1472J is not a DGN at all on the cross reference chart... Worked out to be a richer needle!!!
Thanks to Sudco tech line, I am on the right track now.

So while I waited for needles, pilots and some main jets to get here, I decided to try the 1369 needle in top clip, 38 pilot, 6.0 slide and a 170 main.

After getting A/S set bike started a d idled good. Went out on the road and did some 3rd gear roll on's. The bottom end burble was much better, pulled ok mid and fell a touch flat up top. As you know, the 500 pulls through the mid / top range pretty quickly, so I was using 3rd to prolong the acceleration from bottom to top. I knew it could be better, but was out of tuning options.. It's been 100F here for a month, so for shits, I swap the 170 for a 165. Holy Crap.... It's alive!!!

I have been chasing the bottom end burble, so I was not really thinking main jet was in play. Guess it goes to show, everything needs to be dialed to make the carb function. 3rd gear roll on is a no burble arm stretching deal now...... Accelerates so quick, it's a little violent. My poor MX31 is toast after a couple pulls out on the street...