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I have a 96 500 motor that seems lazy on the bottom. The jetting is very good, starts easy and runs clean. Is there a way to help pick up the bottom and make it smooth at the same time? Anyone with experience on Roosty or Eric Gorr engine mods? Not really wanting to spend a ton of cash at it. Thanks

Without doing the whole engine cases and everything i did a cylinder for AlisoBob, should ask him what he thinks of it, theres definately some guys with Gorr work on here that'll give a review too.

Im having the same issue. Bottom seems a touch burbly, then hits super hard. I am running 1369 needle top clip position, 52 pilot, 170 main. Stock engine, PC pipe.... Just want it to be able to lug it through a corner and not need to clutch it to get up on the pipe... lol.

That's exactly what I used to get when I put a PC pipe on my 85 thru 88 500's so I gave up on them and just stick with FMF. Never tried a PC on my 90's motors.

cmotodad wrote:I have a 96 500 motor that seems lazy on the bottom. The jetting is very good, starts easy and runs clean. Is there a way to help pick up the bottom and make it smooth at the same time? Anyone with experience on Roosty or Eric Gorr engine mods? Not really wanting to spend a ton of cash at it. Thanks

What pipe are you running?

I hate the low end pull of a PC pipe. If I wanted to clutch my bike to get it to go I could just ride a 250

When you talk about lazy low end are you talking about at partial throttle settings or hammer down?

It has a PC with a stock PJ carb with good jetting. Roll on out of turns is lazy. This bike is a mx bike for practice. I would like it to be more like the 450 exiting turns

with that pipe you will need to touch the clutch to perk it up on corner exit. Gnarly pulls hard much lower rpm. Takes a very fast track to miss the high rpm pull of a PC. I've swapped back and forth a lot. Always end up back on the FMF. If you can get your hands on a fatty you would be quite happy as well. Even a stock pipe would be better than the PC down low.

I have a fatty that needs to be straightened. Does anyone know of a good shop to fix this pipe? Thanks

Im having the same issue. Bottom seems a touch burbly, then hits super hard. I am running 1369 needle top clip position, 52 pilot, 170 main.

try diffrent needles, there only $5.05 from sudco, im having good results with a #7 slide and 1370 needle, 39.5 pwk

Mik329 wrote:That's exactly what I used to get when I put a PC pipe on my 85 thru 88 500's so I gave up on them and just stick with FMF. Never tried a PC on my 90's motors.

My 85 (1997 frame) pulls like jet right off idle - hard to accelerate without pulling up the front end and ripping the back tire off. I have a PJ with low boy Gnarly and 89+ reed cage with super stock reeds. Now that I have a 250 ignition it will perhaps be worst - cannot wait to try this weekend.

CR500PHIL wrote:

Mik329 wrote:That's exactly what I used to get when I put a PC pipe on my 85 thru 88 500's so I gave up on them and just stick with FMF. Never tried a PC on my 90's motors.

My 85 (1997 frame) pulls like jet right off idle - hard to accelerate without pulling up the front end and ripping the back tire off. I have a PJ with low boy Gnarly and 89+ reed cage with super stock reeds. Now that I have a 250 ignition it will perhaps be worst - cannot wait to try this weekend.

I hear ya, I went from a CR250 to a 500 in 1985 and I'd be embarrassed to admit how many back fenders and bars I went through trying to ride that thing wide open like the 250.

try a rad valve

coley13 wrote:try a rad valve

The stock reeds and cage work the best IMO. The stock pipe too.....it's power spread is right in the middle of the Gnarly and the Pro Circuit.

OK, i suggested RAD valve as it comes on earlier and smooth aswell. Like the original question entailed.